got bored today, engine parts never went out to machine shop, so I had no block to assemble. so I got some 1/8" plate, cut it to size, used a soap stone and did some tracing, and started trimming and grinding, once done I'll just thread the biggest NPT fitting that I can into it after tapping it, that will fit, prolly 1/8" is all I can fit, maby 1/4" .
making the oil return fitting for my turbo now
- Thread starter matt1967
- Start date
for a return.....
I am currently running a cast AL 1/2" NPT flange on the drain. in this I have a -10 AN fitting and -10 hose to the pan.
on the new setup I have a billet flange with a -10 fitting on it already (less pieces this way and cleaner looking) and everything else will be the same. while you have it out I would use a plain steel/iron (not plated) 1/2" coupler. cut it in half and put TWO bungs then on your oil pan. plug one and drain to the other. this way if you move your turbo down the road you can have a second fitting located where you might need it (for the $2 or so for the coupler it is worth it not having to pull a pan later on)
a drain flange is pretty easy to make up (I even made one from some 1/2" AL scrap once. just drilled th ethree holes needed and tapped a 1/2" NPT hole in it.
for a supply T3/T4 turbos have a threaded and flanged inlet. I always just went with the 1/8"npt threaded fitting (use a 1/4" inverted flare to 1/8" npt fitting and just plumb it with brake line....that is how the 2,3L turbos were from the factory)
if you use any rubber hose (I wouldn't for very long) make sure it is oil rated, and high temp!! I would also recommend a heat sleeve on a plain rubber hose. braided AN line is the next best choice and a full metal hardline is the best choice.
I am currently running a cast AL 1/2" NPT flange on the drain. in this I have a -10 AN fitting and -10 hose to the pan.
on the new setup I have a billet flange with a -10 fitting on it already (less pieces this way and cleaner looking) and everything else will be the same. while you have it out I would use a plain steel/iron (not plated) 1/2" coupler. cut it in half and put TWO bungs then on your oil pan. plug one and drain to the other. this way if you move your turbo down the road you can have a second fitting located where you might need it (for the $2 or so for the coupler it is worth it not having to pull a pan later on)
a drain flange is pretty easy to make up (I even made one from some 1/2" AL scrap once. just drilled th ethree holes needed and tapped a 1/2" NPT hole in it.
for a supply T3/T4 turbos have a threaded and flanged inlet. I always just went with the 1/8"npt threaded fitting (use a 1/4" inverted flare to 1/8" npt fitting and just plumb it with brake line....that is how the 2,3L turbos were from the factory)
if you use any rubber hose (I wouldn't for very long) make sure it is oil rated, and high temp!! I would also recommend a heat sleeve on a plain rubber hose. braided AN line is the next best choice and a full metal hardline is the best choice.
A
Anonymous
Guest
Because I'm in a Bronco and don't want more things hanging down low, I was planning on returning the oil to the boss where the stock fuel pump would be. I am running an electric fuel pump, so I need to block it off anyway. Anyone run into a reason why I shouldn't return the oil there?
A
Anonymous
Guest
Which efficiency? Buying too much hose? The turbo is still mounted high enough in this application that it's all downhill to the fuel pump boss.
grocery getter
Famous Member
matt1967":2tvzr8vy said:
With that hot oil going into the timing cover it might shorten the life of the front seal.
I don't see how it would hang down on a bronco. my pan fitting is only 2" below the pan rail. besides in a offroad truck I would try to keep the lne run short . if you have it leaned over on passenger side hard you might get a low spot in the line which would not be good. draining to the pan on the passenger side is what I would do.
how did kirk drain his?
how did kirk drain his?
as big as you can (1/2" or 5/8")
like I said I am running a -10 AN line on mine.
like I said I am running a -10 AN line on mine.
oh a quick tip.....make sure you place the fitting BETWEEN pan rail bolts or else installation can be a bit tricky
right now, it's tapped for 1/8", should I tap to a larger size, or can I just bush the size up to the bigger line? I figured that what my teacher was suggesting, was too small. he told me 1/4" brake line, so I went into the back and pulled a section of 5/8" fuel line, he told me too big, but I kno, with that, nothing can be too big, because even tho the feed is only going to be 3/16", it's going to have at least 15 PSI of preassure behind it, the return has no preassure, so it's gonna drain out slower than it can feed. so 5/8" fuel line gonna do it?
kirkallen143
Famous Member
turbo_fairlane_200":3moj4d8u said:
Luckily this dual sump oil pan had an old dip stick hole on the same side as the turbo, the one on the opposite side, in the block I use it to check my oil level. Took off the dip tube holding plate and welding a 1/2" fpt fitting, then welded the plate back to the pan, and ran a 5/8" fuel line from the turbo down to pan.
I don't recommend welding the plate back to the pan, mine leaked somewhat thru the welds, even with jb-weld around the edges. Just best to bolt on with gasket-maker inbetween.
Kirk
Funky Cricket
Well-known member
also make sure to have a constant downward slope in your bends.
the 5/8ths shouldn't be too big, like you said, it is just draining down and you don't want to have a restriction backing up oil in the turbo.
the 5/8ths shouldn't be too big, like you said, it is just draining down and you don't want to have a restriction backing up oil in the turbo.
well guys, I lucked out. my teacher was looking for somthing and ended up coming across a turbo oil return fitting from an unknown turbo, that just happens to fit my turbo perfectly. it has a short section of 5/8" steel line cast onto it, and a place for a 5/8" hose to clamp onto, so I'll get some 5/8" oil cooler line and use it.
good score!
the t3 and t4 turbos all use the same drain flange. the IHI flange is about the same with the holes just a little closer together.
so are we going to see some pics of this motor soon?
the t3 and t4 turbos all use the same drain flange. the IHI flange is about the same with the holes just a little closer together.
so are we going to see some pics of this motor soon?
turbo_fairlane_200":zigt90du said:
www.matt1951.freespaces.com click on engine build pics. it's getting updated daily
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