New DR Timing chain rubbing on the oil pan???

jzonieee

New member
Ok, I put a new water pump, oil pump and double roller timing chain. Started it right up, oil pressure came on fine. It sounded good except rubbing with some grindage comming from the front of the engine. :bang: I first thought it was the bolt holding the cam gear on because the washer was thicker than the old one and I had to take the lock washer off so the timing cover would sit flush against the block. The old gear on the cam had a thinner washer and I was going to put that on instead. Well, there were no scratches on the timing cover. The timing chain is rubbing on the oil pan. :bang: Do I take the pan off and grind it down some? I too scare to crank any harder on the bolt holding the cam gear in place (thinking that I can move it further back). Or do I take the pan off, redo the gasket, push the pan towards the front of the car as I tighten down on the bolts ( is there that much play?)

btw, I found a brass fitting at Lowe's for the water pump that worked perfect. Thanks for that suggestion.
 
Remove the oil pan, but don't grind the interference area.
Best to heat the area of contact with a torch & use a ball peen hammer to massage the pan below the sealing lip for proper clearance.
This is a common problem with replacement pans. Bill
 
jzonieee":mymjxw2c said:

is that the Classic Inlines double roller chain???

If so then the crank gear is on backwards.. the numbers should be facing out (at least mine has the numbers facing out and it doesn't 'rub' :nod: )

also, make sure you really clean those shavings off, the tiniest speck can ruin a motor, if possible put a (an extremely strong!!) magnet as close as possible to the oil pick up, this will catch any that you might have missed
 
Yes it is. Man! :oops: Either I was seeing things or it was just too late at night to be working on that, but I remember seeing numbers on that gear at one point. I don't remember, is the other side raise a bit? If so, then once I turn it around = more clearance. Ok, I have more motivation now to work on it tonight. Good tip on the magnet. Thanks.
 
Still check your clearance even when the lower gear is put on correctly.
As i stated before i have seen interference on the new repo pans. Bill
 
wsa111":24fmcv6l said:
Still check your clearance even when the lower gear is put on correctly.
As i stated before i have seen interference on the new repo pans. Bill
x2 :thumbup:

you will have more clearance with the numbers facing out :wink:
 
Ok I remember when trying to put it on the first time in trying to get situated to slide the gears on, the crank gear fell out and not being careful must have been when I switched it around. Thanks for your help and noticing that in the pics.

New pic checking the clearance.
http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp12 ... 10_349.jpg

Runs good!

On a side note. Here's a pic of my spark plugs I put in about 23 yrs ago. The wires were like glued to them. Runs alot smoother at 75 mph.

http://i404.photobucket.com/albums/pp12 ... 15_748.jpg
 
I've tried bosch, I prefer autolite as it is designed to run it. I've also tried those e3 plugs but don't see any benefit with them and carbueration, maybe when I go TBI I'll try them agian..

Awesome on the clearence, did you use a degreewheel to see where your cam is degree'd? I had the engine shop put it on the +4 (they thinking it's perfect) but then I measured it and it was 11.5* advanced, turns out -4 key was closest to 4* advanced. go figure.
 
Since I didn't have any timing issues, all I did was just find the slot that fit without moving anything and I'm pretty sure it was on the -4.
 
You should always degree any cam to set it to specs or where you want it.
--4 degrees, question your desision. Bill
 
Well, I really needed the car running at least until kids are out of school, then I can use their car. I've never degreed a cam before so I think I went the safest route with the amount of time I was limited to. :?
 
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