New engine instantly gets hot

I haven't figured out what I am going to do about the rebuilder. They certainly have some fault. When they put the head on they would have been looking at a clean short block and the problem should have been readily apparent.
I suppose I will document the problem along with the bill and see if they'll respond.
Stephen
Plano, Tx
 
Maybe this is what they used?? it cam in silver and in a copper color, is was a powder. we used it all the time in the 70's when I worked in the Gas station (remember when we used to pump gas for the customer, now they just PUMP the customer) if too much of it was used it could really make a mess of a cooling system.

STOP LEAK
Silver Seal Heavy Duty Radiator Stop Leak stops leaks quickly, inhibits rust, and lubricates the entire cooling system. Silver Seal builds a quick, permanent seal that will not clog or damage radiators. Mixes with any anti-freeze/coolant.

Stop-leak compounds can be effective to stop small leaks at least temporarily. Stop-leak compounds harden upon contact with the air, thus sealing off any small openings. The main problem is that they give the mechanic a sense of false security. For example, stop leak may prevent seepage at a hose connection through the inner lining, but finally the hose will rot and burst, losing coolant and overheating the engine.

Stop-leak compounds can lead to radiator clogging if water tubes already contain deposits that act as a strainer. If coolant level gets too low, some stop-leak ingredients may harden in the upper radiator and block it.



The good old days

Bill
 
Group Hug!

Seriously, the "rebuilder" oughta make good on this, it *should* be standard practice to at least inspect coolant passages.

On a side note, you never know what's inside them. On my Buick heads, there's a long rod rattling around inside one coolant passage - a leftover from when it was cast.
 
They definitely should settle this with you. It didn't come from a junkyard, it was supposed to be in working order.

I would get your mechanic to write a letter explaining how he found the problem, and detailing the condition of the motor. Send a copy of that with the rest of your stuff.

Good luck man, at least you got it all figured out.
 
Glad to hear you got the problem fixed. Most cooling problems are due the poor condition of the cooling system or its reduced performance.

That leak stop will bridge off and settle in radiators and plug up some decent sized orifices. I have a car that had a lot of cooling problems stemming from an old radiator. I had some weeps at some seams and put some leakstop in it. I probably was not the first owner to have done that either. But later that year I was changing the water pump, and tried to drain the radiator. I took the petcock off and it was not flowing out. I had to poke a hole up through the leak stop. It had also settled in the block in the block drains.
Doug
 
For the past decade I have been running that same copper/brass radiator with some JB Weld slathered on a leaking pressed in fitting on the expansion tank and some more JB weld slathered on a leaking seam on an end tank. I finally broke down and bought a reproduction aluminum radiator that the car was originally equipped with. Hopefully that will cure all the hot-running problems I have had on that car.
Doug
 
Back
Top