New engine instantly gets hot

aahsac":3nfhatr3 said:
Since I knew the condition of the motor (new) and the fact that this car sat for 20 years in a garage because of a busted head and the fact that I have thought all along the the busted head was from severe over heating i pulled the radiator. You really can't tell much about the radiator from the top as mine has the baffle in the top but when I pulled the radiator the bottom end was completely gunked up. Dallas Radiator Exchange will build me a three row which I need anyway since I'm moving to Az in April.

Once I get that back and installed I'll report back with the results. Thanks to all for your input and thoughts.


Stephen
Plano, Tx

How much for the radiator? You can get a new Modine 3 row that looks like a stock radiator for like $180 from any of the mustang parts depots.

Mugsy, your problem sounds like what I had for the longest time. Ended up being a rotten radiator core. I flushed the system 3 times before I figured it out. Replaced every hose, T-stat, water pump (which did need it) and finally after flushing it 3 times and still having crud come out of the system, I replaced the radiator and all my troubles went away. I did also upgrade to a stock looking 3 row radiator, and was able to remove my 6 blade flex fan and my fan shroud. Now, even on a 95*+ day, I can sit in stop and go traffic and my engine will only run up to the T-stat temperature and never have a problem.
 
No point reassembling the motor without a coolant filter added! The extra dollars will be well-spent.
 
addo, where can I buy a coolant filter? Nobody at any of the local parts stores around here know what I'm asking for. :evil:
Thanks Daniel.
 
:D Try a marine supply store,they should have some in stock.If not,they can order you one.
They ARE a bit pricey,but you would be surprised at the crud that they remove.
Leo
 
an observation:
When I went to pick up the radiator the mechanic remarked that he would have expected at least some water to drain back with both upper and lower hoses off. I looked at the upper radiator hose and it was about half full. With the center knocked out of the thermostat I would expect a lot of the water to drain out of the lower hose.

The radiator shop filled my old radiator and let it drain a number of times and they said without pulling the header tank off they knew it to be significantly clogged. I get the new one tomorrow.

Stephen
Plano, Tx
 
July 1978 southbond on the tristate tollroad Cook County IL. 70 MPH radiator half blocked with cardboard.

As soon as I hit the tollroad my alternater lite came on. Believing it to be a bad alternater I pressed on. 35 miles later I exited the tollroad and drove 5 blooks before steam began to curl up around the hood. I stopped in a parking lot and openned the hood. Sure enough the fan belt was gone. I replace it with the spair I caried and continued on with no ill effects. I still drive that car today and the engine is as it was when ford built it.
 
Installed new radiator and the engine still gets hot after about 5 minutes, at idle! Pulled the water pump to make sure there wasn't an impeller problem or some kind of visible blockage.

Since the water never drained back out of the upper radiator hose with the radiator off, with the center of the thermostat knocked out, there is apparently a water flow issue. Pulling the head back off next.

Frustrating.

Stephen
Plano, Tx
 
Bummer, I will refrain from the "i told ya so" speech :)

Before you take the motor apart, try backflushing it w/ a hose.
 
Have you pulled the block drain plugs? Since your radiator was plugged, I suspect that your water jackets in the block are plugged or restricted. You may not be getting any coolant flow.
As mentioned by Ian, try flushing the coolant system. Break the heater hoses loose and tie on to them with a flush kit or garden hose. You may want to disconnect your radiator. No sense in flushing crud into your new radiator. Remove the block plugs and poke around with a wire to knock so crud loose.
Doug

P.S. You might also pull the coolant temp sensor as it may allow some crud to flush out of there too.
 
Were the cam bearings replaced on the rebuild?
If the oil holes weren't quite lined up could it cause some heating?
Or some crud from the rebuild causing blockage?
I would consider getting an oil analysis done.
 
it's time to reset.
how hot is hot? number please :wink:
have you checked the timing?
are you sure you got the air out of the system?
have you tried to drive it?
what antifreeze to water mix are you running?
what kind of fan are you running? probably not important since it heats up so quickly, again a number would help.
does the mechanic have a Co detector to check for exhaust gas in the coolant (with the engine running? )

when you pull the head leave the gasket and check all coolant passages.
(the right gasket and orientation)
 
If the new radiator is now full of crud, I demand a beer. :P

But as I don't drink, someone else can help with that detail.
 
Bort62.

You're the master of the generic diagnosis followed with a smug "I told you so". If you're trying to set yourself apart from the rest then you have succeeded; you are not among the hundreds that seem to read this forum who don't have an answer for everything and try to help others and learn something in the process.

Stephen
Plano, Tx
 
aahsac":3fyxdm1i said:
Bort62.

You're the master of the generic diagnosis followed with a smug "I told you so". If you're trying to set yourself apart from the rest then you have succeeded; you are not among the hundreds that seem to read this forum who don't have an answer for everything and try to help others and learn something in the process.

Stephen
Plano, Tx

Just trying to help man. Your radiator may well have been clogged and needed replacing. It may also have been A-ok. Regardless, it was apparantly not your core issue. You've spent the time and money to get it replaced to no avail.

And I am trying to help you again by advising you not to tear your engine apart w/o doing a few simple checks first. Do a compression or leakdown test to verify head gasket integrity.

If that checks out, then flush the block out w/ a hose... You never know what you will find in there. Addo offers good suggestions about pulling core plugs and fishing around w/ a wire.

What I am the "master" of is trying to save people from replacing parts that aren't broken and making more work for themselves. I gave you a general diagnoses (based on a general description of the problem) in telling you that your symptoms did not match having a plugged radiator. I suggested what wasn't wrong, and in this case I was at least partially right. I'm not trying to be a dick - just to help out. The "I told ya so" was a joke poking fun at myself and my tendency to say just that. Don't take it personally.

If you want to rip the head off and get all excited about gtracking down some obscure problem, go ahead - but remember: KISS.
 
Bort rubs some folks the wrong way, but he means well, and he knows his stuff.

I'm relatively new on this board, but from what I've seen so far, every FordSix member is here because we appreciate a classic piece of automotive engineering, and to share info about our hobby. Some of us might be a little "rough around the edges" ;) but trust me, he's here to help.



Len.
 
Just trying to help man. Your radiator may well have been clogged and needed replacing. It may also have been A-ok. Regardless, it was apparantly not your core issue. You've spent the time and money to get it replaced to no avail.

It sounds to me like he definately needed to replace the radiator and it is part of the core problem. Granted, there may still be other problems, but if there is no coolant flow through the radiator, it will heat up quickly and was not replaced to no avail. Now he needs to verify that the engine block has the ability to flow coolant.
Doug
 
66 Fastback":qflh8jwp said:
It sounds to me like he definately needed to replace the radiator and it is part of the core problem. Granted, there may still be other problems, but if there is no coolant flow through the radiator, it will heat up quickly and was not replaced to no avail. Now he needs to verify that the engine block has the ability to flow coolant.
Doug

See, this is the crux of the problem. The type of thinking illustrated here is what leads to the "parts replacement" process of troubleshooting, which is unecissarily expensive as well as time consuming and potentially embarassing.

A radiator shop claimed that his radiator was significantly clogged. That in of itself is not worth much. It is in their interest to sell you a new radiator.

But regardless, that has little to do with the issue at hand.

If the car truely overheats in 5 minutes, then the radiator has nothing to do with it. It may ALSO be clogged, which may lead to OTHER overheating problems - but that has nothing to do with the problem at hand. His replacement of the radiator to no avail proved this.

In order to successfully trouble shoot a problem, a person has to be able to focus on the problem. If your car was stalling at stoplights and you discovered that your wheel bearings were worn, would you replace them in an effort to fix the stalling? Of course not. They may ALSO be a seperate problem - but that is beyond the scope of the problem at hand. In this case it may not be so obvious that the problems are not related - and thats what the help of this forum is for.

The radiator, plugged or otherwise, is beyond the scope of his described problem. I as well as others agree(d) on this. It's been proven now - let's move on.

Being able to correctly seperate systems and understand their relationships (or lack therof) is crucial to troubleshooting something as complicated as a car. That's why this forum (and others like it) is so great... between the cumulative knowledge here, there is little left unknown. If you can't do this - you are lost staring at a device constructed of many interconnected parts - and when "something" isnt working right, all you can do is start replacing stuff.

That's how most mechanics operate - except they replace stuff on your dime. Car's overheating? Replace the radiator - no change? water pump... still bad? Oh... blockage in the block caused by corrsion... problem finally fixed.

What does the Mech tell you? "Yeah, you had a bad radiator, water pump, and some blockage in the block. Now please bend over." When you are paying for someones labor, it is sometimes even cheaper to go this way. It can get pretty expensive paying a mechanic hourly to think about your problem too much. Might as well have him replacing parts (good or bad) which are relatively low cost compared to his labor rate. If he stumbles upon a solution before he thinks it through, you win.

While taking this same approach is less expensive than letting the mechanic do it... most of us prefer to make informed decisions about what parts are likely at fault.

So, getting back to the problem at hand. If the engine is TRUELY overheating in 5 minutes (And I don't mean warm on the gauge, or 15 minutes) then the radiator, water pump, etc aren't likely to have anything to do with it. It takes longer than 5 minutes at idle for your engine to even warm up enough to open the thermostat. If you capped off the bottom water inlet, took the belt off the WP, and filled the block up from the top w/ water, it would run longer than 5 minutes before it started to boil.

Water takes a LOT of energy to heat, and there's quite a bit of it contained in the engine block.

So. What is more likely the case is that either a.) you are experiencing some sort of anomalous engine behavior that is dumping more heat than normal into the coolant (crack in block, headgasket to coolant passage, etc) or b.) you have some significant blockage in the block that is preventing coolant from going everwhere it is supposed to go.

There is also c. ) you are not filling the block sufficiently with coolant due to trapped air (see blockage) or d.) it's not actually overheating and you have faulty instrumentation (gauge, etc).

Generally, one would take the approach that yeilds the most information about these possibilities in return for the least amount of work/cost.

At this point for you, that would be a compression test. Good compression means that you probably don't need to worry about a. and can focus on b,c, and d. When I am dealing with these things, I personally like to rule in or out the most extreme situations so I at least know what my worst case scenarios are, and can plan accordingly (good compression, you know your motor's not trash)

And yes, there are exceptions to EVERYTHING. But a successful troubleshooter doesn't consider exceptions until all reasonable explinations have been exhausted. All too often (and this is what probably gets me going the most on here) people get fascinated by the possibility of an exception before they have investigated all reasonable options. 99.9% of the time, that results in a big waste of time and money.

This is one of the most common failures in my profession. I see engineers all the time who find a potential solution to a problem so sexy and mentally stimulating that they become blinded to the obvious explinations right in front of their face. Its only after expending large amounts of time and the companies money proving to themselves that they were mistaken do they come back around and realize the solution was simple all along. (computer doesnt boot? before you dissect the power supply looking for unanticipated eddy currents, try plugging it in!) KISS.

Disclaimer:
Myself, or anyone else who trys to help out w/ these things via the internet, is only as as good as the information given us. There is a big disconnect between sitting here at my desk reading a post, and in the guy's driveway looking at his car. It is the responsibility of the poster to be as accurate and complete with their information as possible in order to narrow this gap. If instead of 5 minutes it's actually 10 - or instead of overheat's it's actually "gets uncomfortably warm" then everything I or anything else said in response to this is totally worthless. Just like everything else in life, garbage in = garbage out.
 
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