new motor is running hot.... hit 215 today in traffic

[Eric Rose]

Is it advanced or retarded timing that will make it run cooler?

I finally got a chance to do a highway run and it got really hot... up to 235 once I started cruising at 60 mph, even with the electric fan.

So I took the fan off, and moved the heater hoses over away from the exhaust. It will run between 190 and 210 at a 55mph cruise now. If I get any deeper into the throttle than that it really starts to climb.

I flushed the coolant again and it was muddy looking again. Must not have enough rust inhibitor. A lot of crud came out of the heater core. I added some prestone "mixes with all other types" antifreeze and some plain tap water because I'm short on $$ right now. The heater hoses look really dirty on the inside (didn't get to them when I replaced the motor). So I will probably flush it again and replace the heater hoses.

I also have the 5 bladed fan from a '78 Fairmont I am thinking of trying.

Does anyone know what I can do for a fan shroud? Will one for a V8 Falcon or Mustang work? Because V8 '65 Mustang fan shrouds are cheap and plentiful. 6cyl Falcon shrouds... not so much

 

[CobraSix]

You mention the radiator in the top, but how old is it? If you are still getting crud out of the flushing I would look at your heater core and your radiator as possible suspects for being blocked or severely corroded. The fact that you are overheating at 60MPH makes me think your radiator is junk or clogged. At that speed, you shouldn't need any fan, electric or fixed running.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Retarded timing=overheating. That's why many emission-controlled carbed Fords have a temp sensing valve that shoots manifold vacuum to the dizzy when the engine gets too hot. It also speeds up the idle.

 

[66 Fastback]

If after flushing several times you are still getting dirty coolant pretty rapidly, you may have a head gasket leak.

And keep in mind flushing the coolant is not going to fix a radiator that has scale buildup adhering to the tubes. You may end up with clean scale-lined tubes. The scale is going to impede the ability to transfer the heat. Acid or hot tanking the radiator may help remove most of the scale buildup.
Doug

 

[Williboy]

It was easy to build my 6 cyl fan shroud. I picked up a $29 V8 shroud from a Mustang shop Cut it in two near the top and bottom. Now i could easily mock-up both pieces around the fan while it's still in the car. I lined everything up and overlap the two pieces and cut on the marks. I then cut two strips of 3/4"x 2" aluminum that I pop riveted to hold the shroud together. A quick blast of black paint and ready to go.

Can't say it helped me from running hot, but it looked cool. (pun intended)

 

[CobraSix]

Keep in mind that things like lower Thermostats, Fan shrouds, super cool coolant only treat the symptoms...not the problem.

I flushed my radiator 5 times before I finally junked it. That was after replacing the T-stat, hoses, and water pump.

How new is your water pump as well?
How new is the radiator?

If you don't know the answer, it may be time to replace them. The water pump is cheap enough. Radiator is more expensive, but IMO likely the source of your problems.

 

[Eric Rose]

Water pump is brand new. It is one of the aluminum housing pumps.

The radiator I don't really know the history of. I bought it from an E-bay "store" that has a bunch of used Falcon stuff. But I only spent $50 on it so its not like I lost the farm if its bad.

Going to try to find a local radiator shop today. I have heard the EPA is cracking down on shops with tanks/harsh solvents so I may not be able to get it dipped in anything too toxic.

Before I take the radiator to a radiator shop I may try to test the pressure in the cooling system. Maybe that will tell me something. I think Autozone has a gauge that goes on in place of the radiator cap that they loan out. They do require a deposit though and I'm broke untill next payday.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

Invest in an inexpensive Coolant Recovery Kit. It's well worth it.

 

[wsa111]

Eric, after you flush all the crud out the engine & heater core.
Remove the radiator & take it to a radiator shop & have them remove the tank & rod the radiator to remove all the crud & rust scales from the tubes. The cost in my SC area is $50.00 for rodding the radiator.
If your vehicle is a 66 or below modine sells a 3 row radiator for your application.
If you have a 67 up scott drake makes a 3 row radiator.
This link also gives you the choice for an aluminium radiator. Bill
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0244600740
For a 67 & up the item # is 360080977049

 

[66200i6]

Before you have it rodded, find an outfit that can check the rated flow. At a set pressure the flow through the core should reach the set spec. If it fails you can decide if you want to have it rodded or go with the 3 Row.

Also, how many miles do you have on the new block. I just found that after brake-in the engine does not create as much heat. I had up-graded to the three-row before I had reached 500 miles on the new re-build. I still had a problem with overheating unless I was at cruise. I have about 1K miles on it now without any problems.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[Eric Rose]

I'd say theres between 500-600 miles on the engine right now. The radiator I have now is a 3 core. Maybe the radiator shop will be able to re-core it for me if it can't be saved.

 

[page62]

I had a problem just like yours -- it would get very hot on the freeway. I removed and flushed the radiator with a hose several times. But it was only when I had the radiator cleaned and rodded by a shop did the cooling problem get solved...

 

[CobraSix]

Get an estimate to rod and and cleaned first. Where I was, by the time I factored in travel time, cost, and gas, it was only $15 more to buy a new radiator versus rodding my old 2 row.

 

[Eric Rose]

Get an estimate to rod and and cleaned first. Where I was, by the time I factored in travel time, cost, and gas, it was only $15 more to buy a new radiator versus rodding my old 2 row.

Are you using a 3 row now? There is some debate as to whether the 3rd row does more harm than good from what I have read.

I found a radiator shop here in town but I haven't contacted them yet. They are only a couple miles from where I work so I don't think dropping off parts would be a problem.

 

[addo]

Three row copper/brass radiators do cool more than two row of equivalent construction. Four cores is when quality of product starts to determine whether there's a benefit.

Alloy radiators are generally two core, but cool equivalent to a three row copper/brass.

 

[wallaka]

Are you using a 3 row now? There is some debate as to whether the 3rd row does more harm than good from what I have read.

My 3 row works really well. Good thing, because it's too thick to fit a mechanical or electric puller fan on, and the A/C condenser is in front where a pusher would fit..

 

[falcon60]

Eric -Mine (with the old stock rad) acted much the same as yours does. Here's my engine:
.040" over 200
264 cam advanced 3*
10.2 compression (really)
ignition timing 14* initial DS II
180 'stat
no shroud....4-blade fan 1/2" from rad
87 octane
ambient temps between 85* and 105*

I knew the old rad was tired and didn't want to put much $ into it so I limped it through last summer. At highway speeds it would run about 210-220 on 95* + days,and in town it was easy to get it warmer than that if not careful. I had to pay close attention.
This summer I modified the core support for a 22" X 19" crossflow aluminum two row (two rows of 1" tubes) from Speedway Motors.It cost $159 and is worth twice that .......the engine runs right where the 'stat opens now (180),even on hot days. Idling in traffic for long periods warms it up a bit but it never gets to 200. At anything over 20 mph it stays solidly on 180*. I trimmed 1" from the pass side of the core support and 3" from the driver side to make it fit,and fabbed some cradles to mount it top and bottom.Nothing I can do will make it overheat now......it just can't be done.

Terry

 

[Eric Rose]

How important is the sheet metal of the core support to the structural integrity of the front end? I see/hear about Falcons and Mustangs with the sheetmetal of the core cut out quite often so I am assuming that its the rail the the top of the core that gives it its strength, right? I am thinking of adding a monte-carlo bar anyhow so I'm sure cutting it out for a bigger radiator probably wouldn't be a problem.

If the radiator shop gives me a crazy estimate I might check out the aluminum radiator from Speedway. Were the hose locations close to the correct positions or did you have to modify them?

 

[falcon60]

The core support is definitely important to the structure,but where I cut did not compromise it. As you mentioned,the top is important and I did not have to alter that at all.....just the sides and not enough to weaken it. The hoses are in almost the same positions,just "out" from the engine further. The bottom connection at the rad is just above the strut rod mount on the driver side.I used a 1 3/4 X 1 1/2 flex type universal hose on the lower and a hose for an '80 Toyota on top......it fits the Toyota lower application but with one cut is a perfect top hose on the Falcon.
I think with a new core you will probably be fine with your original rad,but anything less may be disappointing.

Terry

 

[jamyers]

It was easy to build my 6 cyl fan shroud. I picked up a $29 V8 shroud from a Mustang shop Cut it in two near the top and bottom. Now i could easily mock-up both pieces around the fan while it's still in the car. I lined everything up and overlap the two pieces and cut on the marks. I then cut two strips of 3/4"x 2" aluminum that I pop riveted to hold the shroud together. A quick blast of black paint and ready to go.

Can't say it helped me from running hot, but it looked cool. (pun intended)

I know it's been awhile, but you got any pics of that shroud?