New Project Car

[AzCoupe]

Other new news, FSPP, err Classic Inlines just made arrangements to purchase a 69-200ci fastback. Mustang and Fords is going to work with us over the next couple months, while we turn it into a dedicated road/drag car. Not sure which yet. The trick is, we have to have it completed by mid Sept, including the motor, suspension, interior work, and paint.

I think we are going to paint it a med-dark yellow with dark gray/silver stripes (like the new 2006GT). Then a white circle on the door with the number 6i painted in a black.

As for the engine, were not sure yet, as we need to look into the rule books for the regulations on induction, and what is allowed. We'd like to build a 250 with the new aluminum head, tripple TBIs, and a turbo. Or if we have time, maybe a blown version with the M90. If in needs to be N/A, then tripple webbers. Bottom line, we want a killer six with all the power we can muster and a great suspension system.

If anyone has suggestions for the suspension, I'm all ears, as that is not my strong suit. :idea: M&F said they would contact the various suppliers to see what they could get for us, but they want me to make a wish list ASAP.

The car will be featured in M&F, with articles on the suspension, engine, and its racing debut. We hope to blow off a few V8's and show them just what the inlines are capable of. 8) We may be looking for an experienced (road course) driver too. Applications are being accepted.

 

[CobraSix]

We may be looking for an experienced (road course) driver too. Applications are being accepted.

Does driving in Boston count as experience?

Slade

 

[64.5 TX Stang]

Mike,

Near my house there is a place called Mustang Mania. They are a parts plce, but the owner Russ is into vintage trans am racing. He may have some ideas for you, and are nice guys that will talk to you if you are interested. Just thought I would put that out there for you.

 

[69Falcon]

I would really love to see a writeup of the RRS bolt-on rack & pinion setup (manual, not power, to keep weight off the front), so that gets my vote. Add in disc brakes on all 4 corners, sway bars front and rear, relocate the battery to the trunk, show how to properly balance the car on scales for improved handling (i.e. adding weight to the rear might make it faster due to improved f/r balance) if its a road car. Montecarlo bar, belly bar, perhaps how to install more supportive seats. If an automatic, perhaps before & after time trials when using a shift kit. Just my $.02 worth.

 

[Anonymous]

yeah, I was thinking RRS also

 

[Anonymous]

hey...you guys should say CONGRATULATIONS too...

this sounds interesting..

if you dont mind me asking...how much was the 69 sportroof...was it a running 200?

and if I start paying you now in monthly installments...can I buy it when done?

 

[Anonymous]

BTW: my vote is cruise/road car

 

[MustangSix]

Road racing and drag racing often have conflicting engine and suspension setups. I thiink you need to pick one or the other early on, before you start on the engine or chassis. Personally, I think you should do a high performance street car.

A big 'ol 4 link with a tubbed rear and big slicks may hook up well on the strip, but not be so good for the twisties. Likewise, the roll bar you put on for handling will add weight and limit the front suspension in a drag car. Oil pan design between the two forms of racing are significantly differentl.

I like the idea of NA with Webers, but they can be tough to dial in. A better approach with even more power potential would be the weber-style throttle bodies with EFI and ignition control powered by a Megasquirt. If it were me, I would probably do a one-off tubular EFI manifold with a single large TB mounted on a large plenum.

If you go with a turbo or a blower, same thing; use the MS with ignition control. O-ring the engine and shoot for at least one bar boost. Really big hp should be easy (400+??), especially with a big intercooler. The forced air engine is probably better suited for a dragster, since finding a class to road race in might be a problem.

For a dragster, there are a lot of things already developed for the Mustang suspension. For road racing, Griggs is one of the best, but pricey. Baer brakes, a 9", and a five or six speed transmission. Roll cage is a must.

 

[rbohm]

8) mike, get hold of john(opentracker) and let him help with the suspension for the mustang. he is building a suspension business and could probably use the plug. he has some fun suspension stuff for use, like roller bearing spring perches, modified lower control arms, and new upper control arms with roller bearings rather than the junk the factory used(they are expensive though). opentracker is a member of this forum so you should have his email address. if not he is a regular on stangnet as well in the classic mustang forum.

 

[Stubby]

This sounds like fun. I can get some setup specs for a vintage style setup if thats what you are after. I could get a driver if it were closer. The owner of the Mustang in my avatar also has a roadrace Boss and he has won the Runoffs at Mid Ohio in SCCA A Sedan.

 

[LaGrasta]

Build something that can't be easily scrutinized by the V8 crowd, because it will.
Figure out for a Crate V8: cost, hp, mpg. Then build that in a I6. If a guy can have a dependable workhorse and unique engine like a I6 that performs like a V8, cost equal or less and altogether weighs less, they will be won over.
A 300hp I6 beats a 300hp V8 just because of the weight difference not only with the engine itself, but all the beefed up supporting parts neede by the V8.
my 2¢

 

[wsa111]

Mike, make it a drag car.

You will need to do the necessary work on the rear suspension to prevent axle hop & leaf spring wrapup.

With a drag car the front shocks will be 90-10's, & you can disconnect the sway bar. Then if you want to put it back on the street all you do is put street shocks back in & hook up the sway bar.

As a drag vehicle you will appeal more to the average guy & readers of the magazine. Just my thoughts.

 

[LaGrasta]

We already have Kelly's car. I think it represents I6 drag very respectfully. Most V8s would like to have her numbers.

 

[AzCoupe]

What we really want to do is make the 69 a road car, and my 66 coupe or the 62 falcon delivery, for the strip. Best of both worlds. I just need to see if Primeda will cover both with articles. Jim Smart liked the idea of a inline road car, as it is unusual. Plus they have done feature's on Kelly's falcon, for a straight line inline. HA.

We want to run vintage races, all over the country. I know there are several, and it would be a blast. Good advertising too, if it runs comparatively well. Jim said he will talk to Global West and Mustang Plus to see what they are willing to do. I found a body shop that is going to help on the paint job. And Rich (82F100) is trying to line up a guy to do the roll cage.

I'm going to LA next week to talk to some machine shops, plus a couple locals. And getting parts for the engine build is real easy. I thought of using the tripple TBI's becasue I already have them (plus the looks). And it would be supper easy to install boost with a plenum, as I have the TBI flanges sitting on a shelf.

Guess we will blaster decals all over it. But that's just part of the fun, isn't it? 8)

I'd love to drive it, in a race, but my age and inexperience would be against me. So we will be looking for a compeditive driver. Maybe even a couple, depending on which side of the country.

Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks.

 

[LaGrasta]

Hint on the decals, stick them to magnets. The kind every handy-man has on their pick-ups. Then you can remove them, rearrange them at will.

 

[Stubby]

If the tires are the limiting factor, then a road car will give you the most bang for the buck.

The Six will hold it's on in the turns with the torque it makes.

It will be better balanced.

It will have less total weight for driving into the turns deeper.

As long as you are limited on traction the better setup and driver will excell in the turns.

It will give up some on the long straights. Once you get on a long straight gravity will be less of a concern and wind drag becomes a problem. This is where a big motor will be a threat. If you can get enough of an advantage in the turns the straights won't even come into play.

I think as long as you apply Seatlesmithy's hundred pound rule to everything possible you can supprise alot of people.

If it is a Vintage racer, I think you have to keep it to vintage tech. This would rule out rack and pinion steering and aftermarket brakes unless they are period correct. This is probably not what magazines want because it doesn't sell parts.

 

[MandarinaRacing]

I guess it all boils down to how much is going to come out your own pocket.
If you really want to showcase your high performance parts for the inline six, best way to showcase it is around a beautiul, and striking package. Sure road racing and drag racing may appeal to us freaks, but if advertising is what your looking for, the only way to go is with a "a la Foose" ride, graphics, shaved handles, no emblems, 2 stage paint, big ass wheels, etc.

Just my 2 cents.

Alex

 

[cameljockey]

its kinda pricey but one of the best aftermarket sources for complete bolt on performance suspensions is Total Control Products (TCP)
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/
they have every thing from full coil over conversions to rack and pinion conversion specially designed for the mustang. but like I said kinda Pricey but you definitely get what you pay for.

Keep sixn'
Dan Hanna

 

[addo]

Three thoughts:

Firstly, how many trade names have been mentioned, that will (theoretically) need changing if those idiot lawyers have their way - kind of shows up the scope of things...

Secondly, build it as a quick street vehicle. Something with road manners, that will start in an icy chill without hesitation and gets mileage you can speak acceptably of.

Thirdly, I'd nominate 006 or Greywolf as East Coast driver when the car is shipped around to show off.

 

[xctasy]

Use a close-to-stock 200, and your best Clay Smith cam. Add a V8-spec T5, Alfa or Merceades or Ferrari clutch with a great shifter, and you are forced to use the 60 pound heavier period 9" traction lock diff from a donar.

Aside from excess Michigan steel, there are other three remaining key focus points. Induction, bore stability, and low power loss transmission. I have been saying for an age that the biggest performance gain is port on port induction. A proven 25% boost can be had with DCOE Webers or DHLA Dellortos verses a set of big SU's. And SU's are about 10% ahead of a single 4-bbl carb. Simply put, a port on port induction is well over 25% boost on a big 4-bbl. Try six Mikuni RS 40 flatsides which allow a peak rpm of 6500 rpm.

Use custom aftermarket Pinto, or titanium Jet rods as used on SBF or Cosworth DFX engines, if legal. Someone here may help you grab a set. They are about 5.125 to 5.25".

With all that, you'll be able to run a set of flat top ACL or Ipael pistons, and add six sleaves which fit a block overbored to 3.72, and create a 3.632" bore. Bore stability with a true thin wall block is everything.

If you can keep the bore stable, the induction perfect, and then can get a cam ground to suit with about 312 degrees like the old Aussie HX XUI Holden Torana Wade grind, you'll be able to deliver astounding power. Factory triple Stromberg Toranas did 215 hp in race trim. There was an easy 245 hp there with a triple SU 202 Holden and 25 years worth of development. Triple Weber XU-1's often read about 295 hp by the 1990's. A 200 Ford missing 6 cubes but with Mikunis will run right over the 300 hp mark. There is so much crank support compared to a Holden six, and any subsequent rebuilding can be done with an overbore without liner removal.


*The use of a manual transmission is equal to an exta 5 to 10 cubes in comparison to an auto. Total flywheel to tire loss is 26.5% with a good T5 at about 225 flywheel hp. On an AOD or C4 auto, it is about 33%. On the C6, its 36%. Even fully manualised, there is no engine braking, and there is torque converter slipage which makes it impossible to have fine control required for any street/autocourse type racing. The heat build-up from the fluid coulpling is always a 2 to 5% loss.

The key is to keep it super light. There are some major issues with weight of a 69 er and a 200. Trans Am Boss Mustangs were technically illegal derivations of stock big block Mustangs with major cheats incorporated by the Snunk works. Things like illegal acid dipping for the bodies. Custom variations made by Holman Moody, like non standard catwalks almost 2 inches shallower than stock above the front spring towers which canterlevered the car down at the front. There were Lincoln Continetal disc brakes, four link conversions to the semi-elliptic rear end..

To to make a 200 haul ass, you need to make that 69 weigh in at 2450 pounds within the regs like the old 65's did, so you have to loose almost 500 pounds somehow. I think you may be forced to eventually run a 250 six, because of weight issue. You might get low 13's with a fully optimised 300 horse 200 in a 2800 pound car, but