newbie with a '62 170 w/single barrel Holley

I wonder about ignition timing. If the balancer has slipped, you might have poor acceleration because of improper timing.
So you might try adjusting the timing until you get maximum manifold vacuum and then take an acceleration run.
Doug
 
Now is where my ignorance is really going to come out. I do not have a timing light. If I did have a timing light I would have no idea what to do with it. So two questions. Is it worth buying one or am I better off taking it to a real mechanic?

Thanks for your patience everyone!

Tisch
 
Using a timing light lets you of course put your engine in the proper degrees of timing for optimal running or maybe advance timing to a certain degree for better mpg or hot rodding. I have timed cars for 50 years by ear. By ear is just listening to an engine for best performance in your mind that the engine can get. It still could be degrees off or could be right on. Only a timing light can tell you. The way one is used you can look in your book and it gives you the degrees that the harmonic balancer is to be set at. Take a piece of chalk and mark that spot on the balancer. Follow the instructions of which you have 3 leads on your timing light. with engine off hook up the first two leads one marked red for positive and one black for negative. The third is to be clipped around the #1 plug wire. Next loosen the bolt holding the distributor tight so it can be moved easily. Next start the engine and return to the timing light and point it down to where the timing marks are and pull the trigger of which turns on the timing light. Then look at where you marked the harmonic balancer to see where the mark is where you marked it and adjust or turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the mark on the housing or pointer. Once that is done you can advance the engine by hand to see how it is running. If it sounds good then turn engine off and lock down the distributor, remove the timing light and you are done. Note" Some distributors are vacuum operated and that hose needs to be removed or un hooked from the distributor for testing. Hope this helps.
 
The question itself the timing light is an inexpensive item whether new or used. You can spend a little or a lot depending on what you want or your pocket book. That mechanic will probably charge you $50 and up to set the timing and yet you still don't have a timing light, but your timing is set for now. Personally I would rather spend that $50 on a timing light rather than pay the mechanic. The instructions are long but really only takes a few minutes to do. I think the light is the best way but don't ask the mechanic what to do.
 
I think I am going to throw in the towel and hire a mechanic. Right now I think I have the fuel mix and the idle messed up. Thanks everyone for your help. Today was a bit discouraging. A lot of work....same results.
 
By chance, where are you located? Might be a fellow ford-sixer nearby...
 
I am in Wisconsin. About an hour north of Milwaukee. I have a friend who fixes a lot of old Fords. I am going to see if I can hire him. If it was August, I'd keep going. But it's getting cold and dark early.
 
Don't quit, you can do it. All of these older cars like yours is a work in progress. We all constantly work on our cars to either just have them working or hot rods etc. but we all work on them all the time. It is something we all enjoy doing. What we don't know we ask others and from their help we can get anything done. Keep looking around up there and find someone that works on these cars and just ask for some help, either information or experience in doing. There has to be someone there with a Falcon hidden in their garage that they are working on. I probably have put 50 miles on mine since I got it driveable but that is due to the overheating problem I am still working on and will not quit until it is done. I just want to drive it. You also get alot of looks and grins from all who see it going down the road and sometimes a few thumbs up's for good job. Just that makes you feel very good as someone else is appreciative and wishing that was their's. It all works out in the end. Good luck in what ever you deceide to do. Champion2211
 
Tisch68Falcon":1ypy86yc said:
...I have a friend who fixes a lot of old Fords. ...
That's the best kind of friend! Beer seems to be the payment of choice around here for working on old cars, surely Wisconsin recognizes it as currency. :lol:
 
That's the best kind of friend! Beer seems to be the payment of choice around here for working on old cars, surely Wisconsin recognizes it as currency. Laughing
True Story:
I went out in my driveway one day and lifted up the hood. Stood around for no more than 5 minutes. A neighbor walks up and hands me a beer and says: " What's wrong with the car?" I replied, "Nothing wrong with the car, I ran out of beer." Plus I won a bet with my wife because I told her someone would bring one over when I put the hood up.

Back to my car. We went on a little vacation for the last 3 days. While up at a cottage we passed a salvage yard. So while my wife and daughter went shopping I hit the junk yard. I found a 62 Falcon and gave the engine a once over. The fuel pump looks completely different than mine. The mystery hose that was coming off my carb base goes into the top of the fuel pump. When I ordered my fuel pump they asked of I had electric or vacuum whipers. I have electric in my 68 but I am wondering if the 62 that the engine came out of had vacuum. In the car I looked at I could not see that whippers were hooked into the fuel pump. I am now wondering if the fuel pump I have in there is wrong. If I had the one that had the hose to the carb base would it make a difference.

I was going to buy the old fuel pump but the guy must of thought it was gold plated. I am sure it would have needed to be rebuilt and yet it cost more than buying on out of Mac's.
 
There is still some of us out there that are recovering alcholics and don't drink at all anymore. That was a true statement.
Getting to the fuel pump in 62, it was vacuum operated when they came out. I had a new 62 sedan and it was one of my best cars. I have also had about every year they were made from 62 through 68 and loved them all. I now have a 65 with a single speed elect wiper motor and it works great. As far as the extra line going to the carb, other than the fuel pump putting out to much pressure and that line went back to the fuel pump to stop flooding but I am not sure about the extra line. The newer autos have a return line going to the fuel tank for return and their pressure is at 19 psi and not like on the falcons at 3-4 psi. There is no other reason that I can figure out why because it has nothing to do with the wipers. The wipers are coming off the intake manifold to get their pressure to operate. Thats about what I know but there might be another response coming with the right answer.
 
Tisch68Falcon":28z1vzpe said:
The temp. is cooler when it runs best.

It sounds like you have a fuel problem because it runs well, then it doesn't. For example, based on your statement above it could be related to the choke. Is the choke manual or automatic? It could also be a problem with junk in the tank or carburetor. If it is, changing the filter might take care of it, or rebuilding the carb.

You should probably post more info like carb make and model (it would also be good to know what type of distributor and advance setup you're working with...ie like jamyers pic above). I would start by posting a pic of your carburetor, so we can see what you're dealing with.

Tisch68Falcon":28z1vzpe said:
The mystery hose that was coming off my carb base goes into the top of the fuel pump. When I ordered my fuel pump they asked of I had electric or vacuum whipers.....In the car I looked at I could not see that whippers were hooked into the fuel pump. I am now wondering if the fuel pump I have in there is wrong. If I had the one that had the hose to the carb base would it make a difference.

I believe the short answer is no, it should not make a difference. According to the Ford Falcon Six Cylinder Performance Handbook (aka FFSP Hankbook for short, the definitive guide to working on these sixes):

"Some of the early (1960-1963) Falcons used a dual action fuel pump that also supplied vacuum to 'assist' the vacum widshield wipers. From a performance viewpoint, a single action pump from a later model will consume less power to operate."
http://falconperformance.sundog.net/

I highlight 'assist' because it's possible that the vacum hose relayed from the base of the carb to the pump and then to the wipers, but since neither yours nor the one you looked at had the original setup it's hard to say, unless someone else in the forum can tell you the routing (I am not familiar enough with the 170). Main thing is make sure that line is plugged well, otherwise it represents a vacum leak which will only add to your issues.

Sorry for the long post, but it seem like you've got a tiger by the tail. I would not go too many directions at once on chasing this. It seems to be fuel related. While it is definitely a good idea to make sure timing, idle mixture, and idle setting are correct, if you have taken it out and driven up and down hills, accelerating and decelerating without issues, then those adjustments are probably close enough for now. Be patient (difficult for me :lol: ) and keep your approach simple and uncomplicated, because most problems turn out to be just that once you track them down. Hope this helps.
 
Tisch,

Any updates?

Also, I was digging around this weekend and came across my old Holley 1909 carb and some spare bits. It worked fine, and if you think it'd help I'd be glad to send it your way - if you keep it I'll make you a deal, or you could send it back when you figure out the problem.

ps: I suggest you post some pics of your engine, it'd help us id what all you've got and there may be something (who know what?) that somebody could spot.
 
If I could figure out this computer I would if I could post some pics. I tried once or twice to put my ride on the left but the system said it was too big. I don't know how to shrink it. I am fairly new to doing things on this piece of junk but I am learning more everyday. These new computers are just to much for me to work with but I still try. I got a couple of carbs today and they are the ones that belong on my car so I will try it first and see what happens. I appreciate the offer. This engine is in very good condition, completely rebuilt with the standard 1 bbl autolite 1100. It does run good but not great (yet). I have the aluminum radiator installed along with the elect fan and that seems to help some. I also got my gauges working both together for a change. The constant voltage reg. was bad. I have afew of them and just put another in and they are working now. My temp on the gauge doesn't get hot so maybe I didn't have a heating problem at all, just was not right. There is always something needing to be fixed and I like to play with it so no problem. Thanks for the assistance.
 
Hey, there is a program called "irfanview" invented by an Austrian guy, that is popular and safe to download:

http://www.irfanview.com/

It allows you to change the size of pictures. That's a start to getting them showing on this website.
 
I'd suggest visiting the "Eye Candy" forum, and having a look at the topic which is first or second on the page.

It'll take you through a couple of options to get pictures showing.
 
Thanks. I have a number of programs to adjust the size. It's the actual upload option I am not seeing. I'll check out the eye candy forum
 
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