A
Anonymous
Guest
Hello, what oil do you recommend for our 65/200?
Thanks
Thanks
A
Anonymous
Guest
I use Mobil 1 in all my vehicles except my Power Stroke F350. Have a 91 Buick LeSabre with 167K, Navigator with 35K, and in the 63 170 I6 I use Mobil 1 10W-30 in summer and 5W-30 in winter.
No leaks! and it seems to lube well!
No leaks! and it seems to lube well!
FastRonald
Well-known member
8) summer I use 20/50 wt amd 10/30 on winter. for long highway trips/vacations...........50 wt racing oil.
MrMill,
Welcome to the group.
You'll get lots of advice, and lots of it will vary widely. Your oil question is a good one, but the answer depends on the intended use of the engine.
Right now up here in North Dakota it is a little chilly - I actually had to put on a jacket the other morning. So I am using 5-30 right now, and I usually use 10-40 in the summer. BUT this choice is for just normal driving in the ND winter. I'd probably use something thicker if I were racing, or if my engine had 150,000 miles.
I'll use a synthetic after the engine is better broken in - there's only about 3000 miles on it now. I wouldn't use synthetic if my engine burned oil or leaked oil, it's too pricey for that.
One of the things you might want to do is to go back into your profile and add your location and under interests your car's information. In answering your question, it does make a difference whether you live in Brownsville TX or International Falls, MN. For computer snoopers sake, you probably don't want your whole address. If you notice the left bar, you'll see that lots of members give their location their too.
Welcome and Good Luck
Welcome to the group.
You'll get lots of advice, and lots of it will vary widely. Your oil question is a good one, but the answer depends on the intended use of the engine.
Right now up here in North Dakota it is a little chilly - I actually had to put on a jacket the other morning. So I am using 5-30 right now, and I usually use 10-40 in the summer. BUT this choice is for just normal driving in the ND winter. I'd probably use something thicker if I were racing, or if my engine had 150,000 miles.
I'll use a synthetic after the engine is better broken in - there's only about 3000 miles on it now. I wouldn't use synthetic if my engine burned oil or leaked oil, it's too pricey for that.
One of the things you might want to do is to go back into your profile and add your location and under interests your car's information. In answering your question, it does make a difference whether you live in Brownsville TX or International Falls, MN. For computer snoopers sake, you probably don't want your whole address. If you notice the left bar, you'll see that lots of members give their location their too.
Welcome and Good Luck
The machine shop that re-built my motor last spring told me to go with straight motor oils, not the multi-grade oils. He said something to the effect the multigrades break down quicker than straight weight oils. I have been following his instructions to the -T-. I am running 30 wt. He, the guy that re-built my motor, said the thicker, straight weight oils stick to the moving parts much better than the multigrade oils. I figured by the number of race trophies and pictures of race cars he has built motors for, he must know what he's talking about.
Just keep in mind, opinions are like .........................butts, everyone has one! Find out what your mechanic or machine shop says and go with it.
Ted
Just keep in mind, opinions are like .........................butts, everyone has one! Find out what your mechanic or machine shop says and go with it.
Ted
A
Anonymous
Guest
I like Valvoline.
I had to rebuild my T-Bird because the prior owner loved Quaker State, but only drove it 1.5 miles to anywhere at a time. When this occurs, the wax in QS oil builds up because the engine's always cold. It finally blocked the oil sump and filled in the timing chain cover all the way up to the timing chain - about 1.25" worth all around! Ruined the main bearings for oil starvation. I've got teardown pix around here somewhere...
Anyway, Valvoline and Castrol don't do that, ever. If you drive far enough most of the time, QS and Pennzoil don't, either - you just have to reach operating temperature for a few minutes each trip to prevent the buildup.
On the plus side, though, this waxy stuff helps reduce those annoying seep leaks from gaskets and seals...
I've also reached well over 200,000 miles with every engine I used Valvoline or Castrol in, but not so with the others. But then, I've only owned 18 cars in my life.
Just my pennies' worth...
I had to rebuild my T-Bird because the prior owner loved Quaker State, but only drove it 1.5 miles to anywhere at a time. When this occurs, the wax in QS oil builds up because the engine's always cold. It finally blocked the oil sump and filled in the timing chain cover all the way up to the timing chain - about 1.25" worth all around! Ruined the main bearings for oil starvation. I've got teardown pix around here somewhere...
Anyway, Valvoline and Castrol don't do that, ever. If you drive far enough most of the time, QS and Pennzoil don't, either - you just have to reach operating temperature for a few minutes each trip to prevent the buildup.
On the plus side, though, this waxy stuff helps reduce those annoying seep leaks from gaskets and seals...
I've also reached well over 200,000 miles with every engine I used Valvoline or Castrol in, but not so with the others. But then, I've only owned 18 cars in my life.
Just my pennies' worth...
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