Questions on hot air choke tube, and head freeze plugs

[Asa]

Evening guys.

Working on this car, replaced the third head freeze plug from the front (as it was the culprit on the original coolant loss issue), got virtually everything back on and filled the coolant system back up and realized I needed to clock the alternator housing to make it easier to wire up once it was on the car.
Got that all done, and leaned over the car to install it and noticed that the block was wet back by the plug, leaned in there, took a pic and realized that the plug was still leaking. Pulled it all back apart and replaced the plug again. This time I filled everything back up before installing the exhaust manifold and AC compressor. Yet again it appears to be weeping.
Absolutely none of the other plugs I replaced are doing anything but sitting in the block happily.
1) Part number I'm using is Fed Mogul 381-9028
2) Is there a part number that is barely wider in order to seal better?
3) Is there anything else that could be causing that plug to weep?

Second verse, same as the first
On the same car, has a hot air choke, of course the choke tube is about 5 inches of 1/4" ID copper tube, good for pretty much nothing. What material and diameter tube do I need to use? I cleaned off one end of the existing copper tube and found that it's barely too wide to fit in the hole through the manifold. Wondering if a steel 1/4 tube will be thinner and will clear the hole.
Also, it appears that the actual choke is all carboned up, any particular method of cleaning that out?

Thanks guys

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Asa.Just going to make a guess here.I think that the steel brake line tubing will work best.
First,check for fit in the manifold pocket.If the tubing is a little large,no problem.
Just cut the tubing to the length that you need to make the new heat tube.THEN,chuck it into a drill and use some sand paper or emory cloth to get the size to fit the manifold pocket
properly.Then bend it to fit,and then spray a little paint on the end of the tube that fits the manifold and you`re good to go.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[Asa]

Leo, I'm working on the hot air choke, I think I've got it taken care of. Would still like to see pictures of what others have done.

The freeze plug issue is really torquing me off though, anyone have any thoughts?

 

[bubba22349]

You could try a brass plug they usually will have a wider lip. Are you using a sealer on them? Like Permatex or some Copper coat. I have a time or two found a crack leading out away from a block freeze plug but than the weeping or wetness is beside the plug too

 

[Asa]

The plugs I'm using are brass plugs. From what NAPA told me, they are 25.4mm, they did find some 26mm ones that I might try.
Not using any sealer, I was wondering if I should, but I don't want to take this thing out again unless it's a solid fix.

The weeping I'm seeing seems to come around the edge of the plug, pools at the very bottom, then slips down the block, if you didn't see the little ring of moisture around the plug you'd think it was an issue with the head gasket

 

[bubba22349]

I always use a sealer. clean the hole with some sand paper than try the sealer and you sould be good to go. I can't remember the size but they use to be in inch size plug don't know the MM so you might measure the hole with a caliper and than convert to MM size.

 

[Asa]

I'll give it a shot, I'm going to have to take them out again anyways.

 

[Asa]

I told them that I was looking for 1" plugs, they dug these up and when I asked gave me the next one up

 

[bubba22349]

I have trouble with the metric' s stuff have learn it I guess? If they are an inch hole the plug should measure just slightly bigger before install to be tight but thats probably only .010 or less difference. I guess they were right the 25.4 is same as 1 inch the 26 MM is likely going to be too big.

 

[woodbutcher]

Hi Asa.Like one of the OP`s mentioned,I use a thin coating of Permatex(R)#2 on the core plug before installing,and have never(knock on wood)had one to leak yet.My 2 cents is that the P`tex acts as a bit of lubricant also ,and the core plug goes in easier.So be careful,or you will have to go on a fishing trip to get it back.BTDT.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

 

[Asa]

Thanks guys

On another forum I'm on, a Nissan guy mentioned that he uses an anaerobic sealant on his freeze plugs, it looks like the #2 is not in the anaerobic stuff. Any comments on whether to use that or the #2?
http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... keting.htm

 

[bubba22349]

I have mostly used the #2 permatex applied to the freeze plug or hole or both and a machinist friend used a more liquid type applied to the hole first and allowed to set for a while. That anaerobic stuff should also work too I guess it depends if you are getting some slight seepage or if it's running out faster.

 

[thesameguy]

Anaerobic is only necessary when the seal is not exposed to air, like between a pair of fairly wide flanges. Since the freeze plug is exposed to air inside and out, you shouldn't need an anaerobic. It wouldn't hurt, but you shouldn't need anything that exotic for a freeze plug.

 

[78merKri6]

Hello Asa. What W.B. said. Please use P-tex #2. its very good and resistant to many fluids that all of us auto and home mechs encounter. Was hard to find for the longest time but seems to be creeping back to us. I may be wrong but I think somebodies flooded the market with modern products and forced it aside!

 

[JackFish]

Also, it appears that the actual choke is all carboned up, any particular method of cleaning that out?

Thanks guys

That would mean that there is exhaust geting up the tube to the choke which means the chamber in the exhaust manifold has failed. I've seem some manifolds on ebay lately. I would just plug the hole in there with a bolt. The manifold probably has more cracks too.