Quick question about carb vacuum balls

[Bradbutlernc]

Forget exactly what the little balls are called, but i have been thinking about something with mine. When i rebuilt the carb i installed 2 balls and the weight, there was a slot for a 3rd ball near the accell pump diaphram, but in my manual it said (223,260 eng.) beside it, so i assumed it wasnt supposed to be installed in my carb since its a 200. Although when it was pulled from a mustang with a 200, the 3rd ball was installed. Should i have installed this part or did i do the right thing? I still have a slight hesitation sometimes but i think its because i need to adjust my accell pump rod. Will i have to replace the carb gasket if i pull the top to put the ball in?

 

[BIGREDRASA]

It can't hurt to try it. Be careful not to tear the gasket on disassembly, or overtighten on reinstallation.

 

[jamyers]

I don't know about the checkballs, but you should be able to re-use the carb gasket no problem, as long as it doesn't tear as you disassemble. Not a bad idea to put some vaseline or even lip balm on carb gaskets for just that reason.

 

[Bradbutlernc]

Well its only been together a week or so, id like to give it a shot but i dont wanna make it worse than it is. What puzzles me is the gp sorensen kit says not to install it, but the mustang had the ball installed in its 200.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

You're not going to hurt anything by putting it in, and driving around the block.

 

[Frankenstang]

Brad, there are usually 3 of the little metal balls (ball checks) in those kits that make for three corresponding check valves . Two are for the accelorator pump, one is for inlet side the other & the weight are for the outlet side, and the third ball check is for the anti-stall dashpot (this is the little apparatus that looks just like the accelorator pump accept it's on the passenger's side of the carb and usually only found on automatics).

http://www.ponycarburetors.com/images/pdfs/1100.pdf

There is also a ball check built into the power valve IIRC but is usually not serviced (ie wouldn't recommend taking it apart ), generally just make sure the power valve is not stuck. Note the power valve on the 1100 doesn't look anything like the one on the 2100, which looks more like the scv...instead the power valve on the 1100 is built into the upper air horn of the carb body and is visible when you flip it over as if to look at the main juet. The 1100's power valve is a plunger, rod and spring apparatus.

I'd also be sure to check that your float level is correct while you're back in there (not too high or too low) and you can check for any residue(crud) in the fuel bowl as well. I set the float a ltitle too high on a carb once and had the situation you described in another thread...run for a bit then die, then you have to wait a bit before you could start it again. Turned out float was set just high enough to cause a gradual flooding the would eventually make the motor die...wait a bit for the fuel to dissipate and she'd fire right back up, adjusted it down and everything was good. Good luck!

 

[Bradbutlernc]

That must have been another thread youre thinking about frankenstang, the only problem i have with mine is sometimes itll spit if i get on the acellerator too hard. But after reading all this i decided to take the carb apart and put that 3rd ball in. Whats weird though is my gpsorensen kit said the 3rd ball was only for the 223/262 engine. Ill put it in today and let you guys know how she runs.

 

[Frankenstang]

That must have been another thread youre thinking about frankenstang, the only problem i have with mine is sometimes itll spit if i get on the acellerator too hard. But after reading all this i decided to take the carb apart and put that 3rd ball in. Whats weird though is my gpsorensen kit said the 3rd ball was only for the 223/262 engine. Ill put it in today and let you guys know how she runs.

Yep, I sure did...think I had you confused with 63rancheroguy, whoops! At any rate the diagram linked from pony carbs is correct diagram for a '66 (in fact it looks like an exact copy right out of my fomoco manual) should be the same for your '67 cpe...if I'm remembering your year model correctly...hint: might want to include a brief description of your vehicle in your profile (year, model, engine size/year, etc) for those struggling with early onset 'oldtimers' like myself . Those sorenson diagrams are pretty generic and meant to cover a broad range of years (ie 223/262 were discontinued by '67 IIRC). You can now get the fomoco shop manuals on cd/dvd relatively cheap...a very worthwile investment
http://www.fordmanuals.com/estore/scrip ... tegory=104
Good luck

 

[Bradbutlernc]

Wow, i just got done adding that ball and holy shit what a world of difference it makes. It was the one that goes near the SVC beside the venturi in the carb. I also changed out the float needle and reset the float level to 1 3/32 like its supposed to be...think i had the wrong needle valve in it, the sorensen kit came with 3 of them. It revs and cranks like a whole new car now, i guess raising the float level really helped.