Rebuild complete, need advice!!!

[66stang84]

My build: 1966 200 with 1975 250 head. Block is zeroed with 40 over, balanced. Head milled .060. All new caps, moly rings, bearings, Sealed Power dished pistons. Clay smith 264/264 110 cam. Adjustable rocker arm and hydraulic lifters. Static compression ratio 9.16:1. Running DGV 32/36 - Direct mount. DUI distributor. Rebuilt C4 automatic with Transgo shift kit. Classic Inlines headers, avinrode dual exhaust. DUI distributor. Stock converter.

After adjusting the initial and messing with the carb settings, I have finally got this car to run pretty good.

Initially the shop said the cam was 2 much for this build. I told them to crank the initial advance up to 25, and the owner was not comfortable and did not want to damage the motor. When I picked the car up, the mechanic said he set the timing to 20 degrees advanced. The car stalled 3 times when I tried to reverse out of the shop parking lot (wasn’t happy). I hooked up the timing light and reset the timing to about 26 advanced and adjusted the carb to highest vacuum under load with car in drive. I am getting 1100 rpm at idle in park with 15 vacuum. In drive, I am getting 10 vacuum at 845 rpm.

With the new adjustments, the car is running like a beast.. it’s GOOD. The only complaint is when shifting to reverse, the engine wants to stall. If I feather a little it’s ok.

My question is am I going to blow up my brand new motor with this much advance??? It sounds like these engines like a lot of initial??? My next step is to send my DUI to FSD and get it re-curved.

My tech level is beginner, so please be very clear with suggestions/questions. Thanks!!

 

[xrwagon]

i am unsure, my motor has 30 in it, as i had no vacuum at all, since i fixed the vac problem its still got 30 as my mechanic did it as i dont own a light lol. Ideal would be 22, lowering mine over the weekend but with 30 its not hard to start and i ran my quickest times, with more weight and almost full tank of fuel with no other modifications, so the loss of vac made a huge difference. Sounds like a nice little motor.

 

[xctasy]

My build: 1966 200 with 1975 250 head. Block is zeroed with 40 over, balanced. Head milled .060. All new caps, moly rings, bearings, Sealed Power dished pistons. Clay smith 264/264 110 cam. Adjustable rocker arm and hydraulic lifters. Static compression ratio 9.16:1. Running DGV 32/36 - Direct mount. DUI distributor. Rebuilt C4 automatic with Transgo shift kit. Classic Inlines headers, avinrode dual exhaust. DUI distributor. Stock converter.

After adjusting the initial and messing with the carb settings, I have finally got this car to run pretty good.

Initially the shop said the cam was 2 much for this build. I told them to crank the initial advance up to 25, and the owner was not comfortable and did not want to damage the motor. When I picked the car up, the mechanic said he set the timing to 20 degrees advanced. The car stalled 3 times when I tried to reverse out of the shop parking lot (wasn’t happy). I hooked up the timing light and reset the timing to about 26 advanced and adjusted the carb to highest vacuum under load with car in drive. I am getting 1100 rpm at idle in park with 15 vacuum. In drive, I am getting 10 vacuum at 845 rpm.

With the new adjustments, the car is running like raped ape, it’s GOOD. The only complaint is when shifting to reverse, the engine wants to stall. If I feather a little it’s ok.

My question is am I going to blow up my brand new motor with this much advance??? It sounds like these engines like a lot of initial??? My next step is to send my DUI to FSD and get it re-curved.

My tech level is beginner, so please be very clear with suggestions/questions. Thanks!!

Lots of initial advance is the key for this engine. If Ford decided to do a US 2v, it would have run it with the factory so called 2350 converter like the 5.0 CFI HO and 3.8 ran in 1983. Stock 1650 works only with stock engines. The igntion timing can cover off this, but Ford wouldn't ever use 26 degrees advance static because of emissions and other issues, but we were not using oxygenated fuel and you'll get away with heaps of inital just fine.

No, it shouldn't kill the engine, but correct tuning of a DUI is required, as it comes, it won't suit a tight converter and your cam and carb. Send it off for a re-calibration ASAP. The proper ignition set up removes the need for a higher stall converter.

Engines run with more duration and less effective compression, a 200 six is a tractor, so it can cope with a huge amount of cam, compression and even more carburation and port area then your engine, but its ignition and carb set up needs to be right. The ignition is the whole key to the puzzle.

 

[66stang84]

Thanks for the responses. My plan is to get the DUI recurved and upgrade to after market stall converter to help with the low end power. Any ideas on a specific converter that would work for my set up. I have seen phoenix transmission listed on here a few times, are they my best bet?

 

[stanyon]

I am in the process of building a 200 for my Econoline, and wondering why you stayed with the hydraulic lifters and changed over to adjustable rocker arms ?

 

[66stang84]

^stayon. I used the ford falcon six cylinder performance handbook for most of my build specs. The texts says that adjustable rocker arms should be used on later heads and engines with hydraulic lifters for compensating of milling head and decking the block.

 

[66stang84]

So after more research and discovering the ring gear on the converter issue on the 200. I really need some advice. This car will be used as a weekend driver/ cruiser. It is becoming more apparent with the idle issues that i need a higher stall TC with this cam.

I am sending out the DUI for recurve and will see how much it improves the stalling in gear problems.

I do not want this car to be a bear to drive between stoplights. Is the cost of having a higher Stall TC built going to be worthwhile to pursue over swapping to a milder cam?? Is there a higher stall TC out there for the 200 already?

Thanks

 

[stanyon]

66STANG85; I could be wrong, but I would think that solid lifters would need to be included with the adjustable rocker assembly. The hydraulic lifters compensate for the frequent adjustment needed with the solid lifters thru oil pressure. Hope some one else can shed some lite on this.

 

[xctasy]

You can reposition the cam if your careful to restore low end torque. It requires carefull checking of the proximity of the crank rods to the cam, but it can be done to overcome caminess, and it can be overcome without resorting to the change of stall ratio. If your car has a rebuilt engine with tight rope seal, it could take 5000 miles before it loosens up enough to allow the idle speed to be cranked down. Jimbo65, who isn't here any longer on this forum, found a combination of 130 amp alternator and tight as hades rope seal ment his 2v Aussie 250 headed 200 cube car took ages to be able to idle smoothly.

A fat spark and proper advance settings mask the converter and idle jetting issues. Once you've fixed the DUi, you may not have to go for a high stall converter, but the stock carb is 290 cfm at 3"hg, and a little small for a good six with a bigger cam.

Do the DUI

Do this to the carb.

viewtopic.php?t=36105

Then look and cam timing and if then its still an issue, buy the higher stall converter only if needed.

You'll have to use a better Jeep truck style or Capri 2800 F2 emulsion tubes to get enough fuel into the engine, and crack open the idle screw more.

It's just some tweeking. The carb you have can match a 350 Holley if done right, and there is a really cheap kit to convert your stock 32/36 carb to a simultanoues 32/36. With 29 and 31 venturis, a great cam, good converter and nice ignition, you'll be fine.