Rebuilding My 200 6-Cylinder

T

tony1963

Well-known member
I finally got tired of the oil consumption and other things, so I pulled the engine out of my 81 Ford Granada. 3.3L 200 6-cylinder, you know.

This engine is going to get a complete rebuild, but I have a few questions for the experts. Here goes:

1.) I bought the handbook and see that the 2.3L HSC 4-cylinder flat top pistons fit this engine. Has anyone used them on an otherwise stock engine? Worth the effort? Any balancing problems with those pistons versus the stock dished pistons?

2.) I notice a bit of oil dripping from the rear main. Should you seal the threads going into the rear of the crankshaft where the flexplate bolts up (6 bolts)?

3.) The head is junk and I think that I have located a good care. The machine shop is going to install new bronze valve guides and will back-cut the intake valves. I don't want to get carried away here but is there anything else that I should consider when doing the head?

4.) I am going to deck the block, just slightly, to clean it up. Am I messing around with the CR too much?
 
I can answer a couple of your questions.

1) There is nothing spectacular about the Tempo HSC pistons; they have the same bore, compression height, and wrist pin hole diameter. They just have a flat top, which will increase compression. There shouldn't be any problem with balancing these pistons.

3) Are you also doing a 3 angle valve job? I'll take a WAG and assume that you are fixing up your 81 Fairmont. If that is the case, is the "new" head you getting from a late model 200 or 250? The late heads have hardened valve seats, a larger intake log, and larger combustion chambers. Earlier heads have smaller combustion chambers and would increase your CR, which leads into question 4.

4) Decking the block is OK, as long as the head you are putting on has the chamber size such that when all is said and done, your CR is in the 9.25 to 9.5 range.

Installing HSC pistons, reducing the combustion chamber size, and decking the block are all ways to increase the CR. Go to http://falconperformance.sundog.net/compcalculator.asp and use this calculator to figure out what your CR will be. A standard bore of 3.68, with a combustion volume of 57cc, compressed head gasket thickness of 0.044, zero piston/deck clearance, flat top pistons, & zero Dish/Valve Relief/Dome Volume will give you a 9.4:1 CR.

Hope this helps.
 
Yes, I am fixing up the old 81 Fairmont (Granada Fox chassis).

I am using a late-model 200 or 250 head with the larger valves and the larger log. I have the machine shop checking a rebuildable core as mine was already "fixed" once. It had two cracks and the stupid machine shop that I used welded the head and it didn't fix the problem. It leaks coolant into the #2 cylinder and runs down the block, too, at the head gasket joint.

I'm not looking to build a race engine, just bump the engine up a bit from stock. It is pretty weak in the HP department. It does have the C4 trans with the 13-inch torque converter. I had the transmission totally rebuilt about two years ago.

Any/all ideas would be welcome!
 
You will need to mill the head to compensate for the thicker modern head gasket.
I had mine milled .050. Combustion chambers are around 54-55ccs, so i have around 9:1 compression ratio.
I did not deck the block, but it was bored .030 to clean it up and I used moly rings for a quicker break-in.
Are you still running the smog stuff?
 
Yes, all of the OEM emissions equipment is in place. There are miles of vacuum line, etc.

Still has the original air pump. The exhaust pipe is original, has the large 5-inch collector at the exhaust flange. Mine does not have a converter grid in that can, but has one downstream. I believe that some models had an upstream and downstream converter.
 
Heard back from the machine shop. Block is good, but cylinder walls are worn .020 out, requiring a rebore. This is odd since the enging has only 48k miles on it. Oh well, low miles doesn't mean low wear.

I need some advice on the rebuild. I am planning to use the flat top pistons from the 2.3L HSC engine, moly rings and the crank journals are just fine, std bearings. I have a few questions for the experts:

1.) I need to make a decision about the cam. I do not want to build a race engine, but want to keep the idle smooth. I can go with the OE cam, but what are the recommendations from all of you?

2.) The distributor seems to have some wear. I installed the spring kit 925D, replacing one of the springs as suggested in the web article. The other heavier spring is loose and does not fully engage until the centrifucal advance moves a bit. Is this correct?

3.) After installing a new reluctor and base plate on the distributor, there is a fair amount of interference when the distributor shaft spins with the reluctor bumping against the magnet. There is some slop in the shaft. Is this normal and will engine oil on the shaft bushing take care of this or is the bushing worn? If so, how difficult is it to change the bushing?

Thanks all!
 
1. A common recommendation here would the 264/274 112LC.

2. I believe this to be incorrect. The primary spring is the one on the side with the slot. I think this should remain in place. The heavier, loose spring is the one to swap out. I've done this on my car and my buddies' and it's working quite well.

3. I just had the same problem last night. I took it apart a few times and just fiddled with it a bit and it seemed to find the right spot. I'm not sure how much gap there should be but as long as it's not touching it should be OK. (I'll let you know...) Some up and down slop might be OK, but the shaft should not wiggle laterally very much. I have a re-bushed housing and there is no side to side wiggle at all.

There are a bunch of ds2 distributors on ebay now for $30. That might be cheaper than having to go to a machine shop to have a bushing pressed in. Yours, at 48k shouldn't even need the rebuild. Maybe @ 148k.
 
If you have the block or head milled you may want to intall a set of adjustable rocker arms in case your engine doesn't have them already.
 
I've gone probably as far as I want to on this thing. The deck was cut just enough to smooth the surface. No heavy cutting. The cylinders are being bored to accept the .030 oversized 2.3 L HSC pistons.

I'll backcut the intake valves and that's about it. Too much more and I'm thinking that I'll have to use premium fuel in this old thing. I just wanted to freshen it up and boost the HP a few ponies. Nothing fancy.
 
You are aware that the new replacement head gaskets are about twice as thick as the old steel ones.
So if you don't mill the head you will lose compression on an already low compression motor.
I would have it shaved at least .050 to compensate for that.
 
The good thing about the Tempo pistons is that you won't have to mill as much off the head to get the compression up to where you want it.

I'd recommend zero-decking the block, too. The later motors were real turds when it comes to compression, most were in the low 8's. So you'll have to mill off a lot of material to get it up to a respectable 9:1 or so. I went with a zero deck height and 9:1 myself and I have had no problems at all running regular in it. :thumbup:

You definitely want to do the math when it comes to compression ratio. Have your machinist measure the deck height, the volume of your combustion chambers, and the thickness of your headgasket. From there you should be able to determine how to get the compression to where you want it.

I'd also recommend degree'ing the cam, especially if you plan on re-using the original cam because you might have one that was made on Friday afternoon (or worse, Monday morning :mrgreen: ) that might have the keyway a few degrees off.
 
Okay, got the entire engine to the machine shop and during the teardown, noticed that this engine does not have an oil slinger. It has not been apart before so I guess Ford did not use a slinger in this model.

Should I source one and use one or move on?
 
I have two '78 engines and I've never seen an oil slinger. I think you're safe to move on.
The usual disclaimers apply...
 
Engine kit is in. I have everything ready for the machine shop. I did use the 2.3L Tempo HSC flat top pistons. Going to have the entire rotating assembly balanced, too.

I can't get the dowel pin out of the old cam. Where can you get a new one of these?
 
Try some PB Blaster (or a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and ATF) on the cam dowel, followed by some heat with a torch. That should do the trick, assuming you aren't planning on re-using that cam, of course.

I would think you could get the dowel pin at any machinist supply place like Grainger.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/se ... in&N=14910

Or they may even have them in the bolt bins at a place like Lowes or Tractor Supply.
 
I don't have a torch and could not get my dowel pin out, but there is a shop nearby and the mechanic was happy to put the torch on it and pop it out. No charge, but I tipped him well.
 
I am just about ready to start putting the 200 back together.

I noticed a slight difference in the original cam and the replacement cam that came in the kit. Here are the differences:

1.) The replacement cam has a different bolt thread pattern that the original. The replacement cam's nose thread is different.

2.) There replacement cam does not have a machined shoulder on the end that takes the cam gear. There will be a space between the cam gear and the first bearing. The OEM cam had a raised area for the cam gear to stop on.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
All Small Six 200 inline 6 Camshaft
2 3
Replies
42
Views
1K
wsa111
wsa111
awasson
All Small Six My 200 CI mystery
5 6 7
Replies
130
Views
12K
drag-200stang
drag-200stang
M
For Sale Regroup Effort Trying to Sell Off My SBF 6 Cyl Parts Before Going to Fleabay
Replies
0
Views
510
MaverickAddict
M
6
All Small Six Distributor guidance ideas
Replies
10
Views
956
wsa111
wsa111
M
For Sale Ford SROD Manual 4 speed Cable Pull Bell Housing for 200 Cubic Inch 6 Cylinder
Replies
0
Views
266
MaverickAddict
M
Back
Top