Recommend an auxiliary cooling fan for 67 Mustang 200 six?

[mustang1967]

I have a 1967 Mustang convertible with the 200 six cylinder. The car is all stock original with the autolite 1100 carb etc.

I have the car running very well in general but it does have a problem with hot starting. I only have an issue if I drive the car for a while, park at a store etc for only 5 or 10 minutes and then fire the car up again. Basically it gets really hot and runs like crap until I can get moving again get some air through the radiator. I have an upgraded radiator & fan shroud. Car does not get hot until I stop / start. I'm thinking I could ad a cooling fan to the radiator to turn on while I'm in the store. This way the car would cool quickly once started again.

Is this a good idea? Can anyone recommend a good fan for the mustang? Would prefer one with toggle switch that i control on/off. Thanks!

 

[67drewstang]

If I were you I'd get rid of the distributor, first. I know it sounds whacky, but I had problems like you describe for 37 years, until I swapped my Load-o-Matic distributor for a Duraspark II setup. Your original distributor might be causing it to not advance at speed, causing overheating issues. One way to determine this, is if you manually advance the distributor you have 20 degrees and it runs a lot better.

Just an idea.

Drew

 

[candyapple66]

Give it a lil tap of the gas before starting, sometimes it will close the choke on the carburetor and make startup easier. But yes I heard timing influences the hot startup and can cause issues like you are explaining.

I upgraded to a pertronix 2 unit in my loadamatic original distributor. I put in the pertronix 2 and pertronix 2 coil but I also wired it up for 12 Volts which is required for the pertronix 2 to function properly. With pertronix 1 'original' you dont have to wire it up for 12 volts or change your original coil, it just replaces the points.

I also just replaced my vacuum advance canister on the side of the distributor but I havent started my motor with the new canister yet.

But at idle the engine isnt getting any significant advance from your distributor so idk. Yes upgraded cooling would probably help you out. Im just going off what ive heard from various sources. hope to be of some help.

Cheers

Candyapple

 

[170-3tree]

Do you have a coolant line running through the carb base? If so, it might be boiling. Had that problem all the time until I bypassed the de icing block. If you don't, then try a phenolic spacer under the carb to cut down heat soak.

It just doesn't sound like a cooling system problem. But yes when you shut down almost any engine water temperature will spike.

 

[Gene Fiore]

X2 on the heat soak response...

 

[candyapple66]

Do they make phenolic 1 barrel spacers for the stock carb and manifold. If so it would be beneficial especially for those of us in hotter climates who might want to bypass the heat plate under the carb.

 

[170-3tree]

Not readily, but gettinga piece of phenolic is relatively cheap and easy towork with so making one should be a breeze.

 

[Gene Fiore]

Do they make phenolic 1 barrel spacers for the stock carb and manifold. If so it would be beneficial especially for those of us in hotter climates who might want to bypass the heat plate under the carb.

I'm pretty sure classicinlines.com carries them.

http://classicinlines.com/products.asp?cat=44

 

[candyapple66]

Ha I never saw that one before on their website,,,, thx looks like a good option for a spacer.

 

[mustang1967]

Thank you for the replies.

Really don't want to change carb / distributor. I have run the pertronix that replaces the points before. Long story - but now I'm back to a fully stock ignition system and I even sourced a new old stock Autolite 1100 so basically good to go for now. Car is a weekend driver only so stock ignition is fine as long as I maintain it properly.

Already long ago bypassed the hoses that run through the base of the carb.

I would do a carb spacer but that won't work with the stock air cleaner? Need to research the one in the link. I would be willing to do spacer + low air cleaner if such a thing can be found. Will want to keep stock throttle linkage etc. Don't want to start changing all kinds of stuff. One thing leads to another...

I am 100% convinced it is boiling fuel / from getting to hot from heat sink as cars do after being shut off. Car does not run hot in general.

Would my fan idea not help? I'm thinking it cools water in radiator. Fire up car (it will start) and it instantly cools due to the cool water in radiator? Also added bonus of extra cooling if stuck in traffic nightmare.

Please advise and thanks again!

 

[mustang1967]

Actually the spacer says it shouldn't cause height issues. That may do the trick. Will definitely give it a try! Any ideas for a good fan if I decide to do that as well?

 

[candyapple66]

Have you checked out your water housing thermostat? I just installed a 180 degree version of the thermostat. Stock is like 192.5 or something like that im not a real technical guy.

But ya, being that I live in florida I figured the 180 degree will open sooner and let more coolant through sooner.

But dont run a 160 degree unless you are in a desert climate where temperatures are extremely high, it will make the oil heat up less and be more thick since there will be sooner cooling initially when you start your engine.

just a thought.

 

[mustang1967]

Thanks for the tip. I'm pretty sure that I have a 180 thermostat in there but it has been a while. Will take a look.

 

[chad]

"...prefer one with toggle switch..."
Y not an automatic one? Only comes on when U park/leave...
Get an ele. fan (trash the engine driven 1, get ele) 1 w/a thermostat - lill more HP too?

Add a R E A L temp gage or use a hand held 1 & check while 'parked'.
Find the actual temp to diagnose if that's really it? Doesn't sound like fuel boil...
Fuel pump? Timing? Float level (drains out while parked)?

"...once started again...."
not enuff info - what happens when U attempt to start @ the "hot period"?

Thanks 4 askin, we'll figure it out 2get her...

 

[mustang1967]

You are right about getting a fan with a thermostat. Will do that. Just want to ad an auxiliary fan though and keep the original. Really only need the extra fan on the super hot days when I am stuck in bad traffic.

Car will start fairly easy after I stop at a store but it runs pretty rough until I can get going and get some air through the radiator. I'm going to buy the phenolic carb spacer from this site right now and try that first.

If I can find a nice inexpensive auxiliary fan I plan to ad that too. Thanks!

 

[Econoline]

There are some pretty cheap reversible electric cooling fans on fleabay

 

[chad]

"...inexpensive auxiliary fan..."
IU wuz thinkin instead of what U have now.
Some go to the pick'n pull and grab the tarus.

"Find the actual temp to diagnose if that's really it?"

 

[MPGmustang]

IIWIYS- I would swap to a 192 t-stat, the water is TOO hot, this will raise the temp to the CORRECT temperature. I've tried for years to go 180* t-stats but always had issues here in AZ desert with it overheating and having a hard time starting. the heat soak was horrible. FINALLY i tried a 195* t-stat and IT ALL WENT AWAY!!! I don't know why or how, but my THEORY is the water stay'd/cooled in the radiator longer so when I came back out from grocery shopping it would just go, was little difficult but after 20sec's (or time to seatbelt up and put in drive) it would smooth back out.

I only tried a 195* because someone here said to try it... I've gone 'new' 180*'s like 4 times, but finally tried a 195... what's funnier is the stock engine loved the 195 so much I tried a 210, I've never seen the temp stay so still in my life, even got better mpg too, go figure. it wasn't the best for traffic with a stock 4 blade fan, but my rigid 6 blade and even the flex blade fan kept it cool in traffic.

when I did the engine rebuild I kept my 195-t-stat, I ONLY had heat issues with my electric fan when AC was on. with the mech fan, it was happy.

I highly recommend going to a stock 195 t-stat, or if your in cooler climate, a 210 t-stat. the HEAT HELPS!!! too little heat and you have issues. same as too much. but these engines were designed for this heat, and with the extra technology we add (like gas mixtures and oil grades to coolant's) we can take advantage of it all.

so go 195* if here in AZ, try 210 if in cooler climates, double check vacuum lines to LOM, and also check if your float level is high enough, too low of float, easier to boil over.