She whistles when cold.........................

strat1960s

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Not my wife, the car silly.

When will I ever get this car finished??

Here's what happened: Went to Walmart to do some shopping. When I started the car to drive to PetSmart it started to whistle loudly. If I pumped the gas pedal it only got louder. After a few minutes, when the car got about 190* the whistle went away. When I got home I checked the bolts on the intake and they were all snug.
Could this be a wierd vacuum leak or could this have something to do with my vacuum port being loose?
Ya' know, one of the reasons I got this car was to learn more about them by working on my own, but this is getting crazy!
I'm going to call the shop that re-built my motor for me and ask a few questions. Tomorrow I plan to buy a few cans of carb cleaner and see if I have a vacuum leak or crack.
If you have any suggestions I would appreciate it.

Ted
 
ummmm first thing check the exhaust tip.... there are these new well maybe new exhaust whistles that you put in the end of someones exhaust and it will whistle, on some cars louder than others.... I bought 30 or so off ebay as a wholesale tihng and only tried it on my friends 3000gt, he got halfway home, and thought his intake was coming apart, well he pulled off and started messing with the intake tube with a screwdriver and my friend stopped him and told him he was an idiot (I wasnt with them...) but as it heated up it got louder so I'm not sure..... but theres a start I guess
 
I thought about that, too. But the sound went away after the car warmed up.
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Sounds kinda similar to what my car is doing. There is a whistling sound that goes on until it gets warm and im on the go. I thought i was a ripped hose or something, wasn't that. What I Found is that the Carb has a very very small crack on the base. From which the sound squeezing through causing the "whistling" sound. Just try some -eproxy- .. or what someone told me, crazy glue might even work...gl
 
If you have a crack or vacuum leak, spraying carb cleaner over the outside should give you a surge in engine speed when sprayed on the leak. :wink:
 
Many vacumn leaks are only heard when the engine is cold, then it warms up and sometimes seals or it just not enough to make a loud whistle for you to hear. Check for vacumn leaks when cold.

Ted, you didn't say what head and intake you have?
 
just an idea check the choke plate. more choke kinda creates a noise similar to what your talking about and i watched the choke and when it opened up it went away.
 
trashline":130oxvil said:
just an idea check the choke plate. more choke kinda creates a noise similar to what your talking about and i watched the choke and when it opened up it went away.

Very good point, specially if your "high speed idle" is set too high. Do you have a tach so you can tell how fast it idles with the choke engaged? IIRC is shoud be 1300-1400 RPM. :?
 
1967FordMustangs":yi8ayusb said:
What I Found is that the Carb has a very very small crack on the base. From which the sound squeezing through causing the "whistling" sound. Just try some -eproxy- ..

recalling a car craft article about a GM quadrajet rebuild, I can second taht. After tapping a brass bushing in place of the worn-out throttle shaft bore, the area around the bore was expanded and revealed a tiny crack, whch was repaired using catalyzed epoxy like JBweld.
HOT ROD used the same epoxy stuff on smoothing out the venturis and blocking all the air bleeds on a sleeper hemi dual quad intake they converted to hidden fuel injection.

Other than that, zymac and aluminum carb housings can be repaired by laser welding.
 
I'm run the OZ head and intake with a Webber 38 DGAS 2bbl carb. I have the idle set at 1000 to 1100 RPMs. When in gear it drops to around 750 RPM.

I spoke to the shope the rebuilt my motor and they said that sometimes when the conditions are just right, the carb will whistle just below the butterfly. I still plan to spray the carb and intake with carb cleaner and see what happens.

Ted
 
How about the high speed idle? That is normally set by cracking the throttle open, then manually closing the choke butterfly. That sets the high speed idle screw on the stepped cam that's part of the choke linkage. The screw will usually set on the second step or on a ">" mark.
 
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