Still hot on the freeway after upgrading to the 3-row

kukm66":3qr9bkyy said:
Just out of curiousity, are your heater hoses hooked up to your engine?
One of the biggest mistakes people make when replacing the cooling system is to hook up the tank to the system and all of the accumulated crud recirculates back into the system, defeating everything you just did.
If they are hooked up, unhook them and put in some brass plugs with sealant. Secondly, make sure that your hoses are well tightened and the clamp is up close to the raised portion of you outlet. This is another common affliction as the system will lose pressure if the system is not completely closed.

If your engine sat for a long time, the antifreeze will crystalize and form a solid mass which will corrode all aluminum parts and also block passages. I would definatley look into a pressurized engine flush.
Click to expand...

I looped the heater hose around, you can see it in the pictures. I don't need a heater here in AZ. I don't think the block ever sat for a long period of time, I took it out of a running Fairmont.
 
Try setting you timing to at least 10 degree BTDC maybe even a bit higher. Also make sure your bottom radiator hose is not collapsing. Also what pressure is your radiator cap. I would recommend on in the 15 to 17 psi range. Also drilling a small hole in the flange of the thermostate will help pass through any steam pockets that maybe forming.
 
Those stockings are restricting your circulation. I went through your problems with my 65 Comet. Buy a Gano Filter and just run water with rust inhibitor until all the debri/rust is out of your engine.
 
Is 210 degrees too hot? I was sitting in Chicago rush hour traffic after a long trip and it got up to 220. What'll that heat do?
 
We are talking sea level now. Water boils at 212 degrees, most antifreeze at 230 degrees. Add 2 degrees for each psi for whatever the psi rating is on your radiator cap. 230 degrees plus a 15 psi radiator cap equalls a boil over at 260 degrees.

I still think you have too much crap in your engine.
 
gtm1086":2uwtpocf said:
Try setting you timing to at least 10 degree BTDC maybe even a bit higher. Also make sure your bottom radiator hose is not collapsing. Also what pressure is your radiator cap. I would recommend on in the 15 to 17 psi range. Also drilling a small hole in the flange of the thermostate will help pass through any steam pockets that maybe forming.
Click to expand...
Good advice,. you stated timing was set at TDC if you mean set at TDC with a light while idling that is going to contribute heavily to engine heat. and like everybody says get your system clean-clean
 
62 Comet:
You need to verify the indicated temp. The gauge may not be reading correctly. To be honest, 210 to 230 degress is probably not going to result in an imediate failure of anything metal. That assumes your coolant is of the proper mixture and your system is holding pressure. What it will do is shorten the life of your hoses, seals and oils.
The other common problem with higher operating temps is the increased tendency for preignition, detonation and dieseling upon shut down.
But verify the indicated temp.

Kustom Skylark,
If you have not done so yet, don't forget to remove the block drain plugs on the sides when draining the coolant. You may need to use a wire or pick to help clean the crud out of there.

Doug
 
Most definately something wrong with the cooling system circulation. My 300hp 302 has the same 3 core 6 cylinder radiator and it stays nice and cool. I would for sure check the thermostat for proper operation and see if a lower hose can be found with a spring in it to keep it from collapsing.
 
The lower radiator hose *needs* to have a spring inside of it. Or the hose will suck closed & cause a running hot condition.
Hope this helps,
Darryl
 
I have run many cars without a spring in the lower hose, and have NEVER had a problem. But I also keep my radiators very clean.

The hose will only collapse if there is enough restriction through the radiator. (water pump is pulling, but can't pull enough through the rad)

I believe if the radiator cores are clear and flowing well (no restrction), the bottom hose will never collapse.
 
Believe what you want, but the factory puts them there for reason..... In my 30 years of being a ASE certified mechanic, I've found this important part left out because they didn't belive it was needed & the vehicle overheated.
The thermostat creates a restriction to slow the flow of coolant through the radiator for more thorough & consistant heating/cooling. So, maybe the fact that you had radiator hoses in decent condition had something to do with your luck.
Darryl
 
If you do decide to install a 5 blade fan, I can give a few pointers. I just installed a 5 blade fan from a Maverick with A/C and 6 cylinder engine. It fits right on the original spacer, it clears both radiator hoses. It doesn't clear the battery holding clamp. My battery tray and clamp are replacement pieces purchased from Dallas Mustang. I include that info in case thier parts are not exact replicas of the originals. I had to notch the battery holding clamp to clear the blades.

I recently drove the car on the Power Tour and the engine temps never rose above normal temps. Even in highway back-ups and hot Florida temps in traffic. The car would heat up on hot days in city traffic to the point I became concerened and high-ideled the engine in nuetral. Those problems are gone. The 5 blade fan obviously moves more air. I could easily tell the difference in air flow as soon as started the engine and checked in the engine compartment.

Here's a link to a thread that has some pice of my 5 blade installation. Just scroll down to see the pics.

http://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=24498
 
Rande,
I see that you have a '64 Gladiator. Does it still have the Tornado Six? Or is it a 327 Rambler equipped rig? I have a '67 M715 with the Tornado.
Darryl
 
No engine, tranny or transfercase. Those items were gone when I bought it. I have no idea what it had originally. I am going to put the cab and front clip on a 1979 Cherokee frame and shorten up a bed to fit.

I've always thought "Tornado" was a blatent case of false advertising. More like "Breeze".
 
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