KustomSkylark
Well-known member
KustomSkylark":3w0kz1zf said:
ooops I guess when you type the word b@stard, "person-of-questionable-ancestry" gets replaced in there.
Still hot on the freeway after upgrading to the 3-row
- Thread starter KustomSkylark
- Start date
ooops I guess when you type the word b@stard, "person-of-questionable-ancestry" gets replaced in there.
CougarT
Well-known member
Here's what can happen with a bad shroud, not to mention no shroud....
http://www.seattleu.edu/scieng/engpc/st ... erview.htm
"Heated stagnant air trapped between the shroud and the radiator due to back pressure from the engine block face decreases the ability of the radiator to dispel engine heat, thus decreasing cooling capacity.
An excess of recirculated hot air is generated by multiple systems within the engine compartment, such as the cooling system, exhaust manifold, turbine, alternator, power steering pump. Areas of low velocity flow near the heat producing components of the engine. Stagnant heated air adversely affects the cooling system by increasing the amount of heat that must be expelled.
Heated air from the fan escapes the engine compartment to the ground, this air then deflects off the ground picking up dirt and debris, which is then recirculated into the radiator causing clogging and fouling. "
http://www.seattleu.edu/scieng/engpc/st ... erview.htm
"Heated stagnant air trapped between the shroud and the radiator due to back pressure from the engine block face decreases the ability of the radiator to dispel engine heat, thus decreasing cooling capacity.
An excess of recirculated hot air is generated by multiple systems within the engine compartment, such as the cooling system, exhaust manifold, turbine, alternator, power steering pump. Areas of low velocity flow near the heat producing components of the engine. Stagnant heated air adversely affects the cooling system by increasing the amount of heat that must be expelled.
Heated air from the fan escapes the engine compartment to the ground, this air then deflects off the ground picking up dirt and debris, which is then recirculated into the radiator causing clogging and fouling. "
I haven't ran a fan on my car in over 3 years. only had probs once 2 years ago....sitting in stopped traffic on the instersate in 94 degree weather. was driving at 75 then it just stopped for construction so with the heat soak and not moving it over heated. just parked at the side of the road and took a nap for a couple hours and took off once traffic cleared up. I have no problems driving in town or on the highway. granted I have a larger radaitor than yours and it is totally exposed aside from what is blocked form the bumper. so is plain water turning brown or is mixed antifreeze turning brown? if it is mixed that sounds like a gasket or head issue. the only times I had brown coolant was with a blown head gasket.....which also points to your overheating at highway speeds.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I don't have a mechanical fan on my 5.0 Ranger (very little room), but I do have two electric fans in front. I never turn them on unless in a traffic jam.
G
Guest
Guest
An engine heats up after shutdown also, due to the lack of circulation the water pump gives the heating engine at it being shutdown. I had the old 2.3 tubos with a toggle switch electric fan, and Id always sit for 5 minutes after I got home and let it cool down by fan and water pump by turning the fan on. Its also good for turbo applications to let a car sit after highway or strenuous driving, because its bad on the seals to let it shut off instantly.
I kinda wish I had an electric fan now, to do that, because if I shut down the Falcon, and start it 5 minutes later, shes at halfway on a real hot day.
I kinda wish I had an electric fan now, to do that, because if I shut down the Falcon, and start it 5 minutes later, shes at halfway on a real hot day.
A
Anonymous
Guest
2tonfalcon":26dusu4s said:
Yeah, but the coolant in the radiator has cooled off, and after running for 10 - 20 seconds the temp gauge should drop a bunch.
CougarT":331px7hk said:
the only over heating problem I have ever had was due to retarded timing. I have a 3 core, 160 stat and no shroud. Had my car out last weekend with no problem and it was close to 110 degrees out in the Phoenix area as KustomSkylark can attest to.
Actually, mine was a combination of the two. I was overheating, similar to you, so I put in a new three-row and it helped but did not solve the problem. It helped keep it cooler, longer, but would still overheat. With me, it was retarded timing as well. Once I found that the TDC mark on my damper was 10 degrees off, I timed it correctly and now the engine runs cool as can be.
The weather in Reno, NV has been getting into the middle 90's and the temperature on my Ranchero has been really fluctuating. Of course I am enjoying the air conditioning. When I am on surface streets with traffic signals, the guage goes 3/4 of the way to hot and just stays there. Once I get back on the freeway for a couple of minutes the tempurature goes back to 1/4 past cold. When the freeway traffic is moving about 75 MPH and I am goin up a grade the guage moves to the half way point. All this is with having the AC on. I was concerned at first, but no matter how long I am in traffic the needle never gets to the safety line on the guage.
CougarT
Well-known member
On many industrial and agricultural diesel engines, and some gas engines, there is a pyrometer which reads exhaust temperature. There is a very high correlation between the pyrometer reading and how much power your engine is producing. Some pyrometers are calibrated to read horsepower directly.
If a coolant system is working properly, coolant temperature should mirror the exhaust temperature, except lower and with a lag.
Also, if you have a cooling system that is sized large enough, you should be able to tell when your thermostat opens by observing the (analog) temp. guage.
The coolant in your rad should ALWAYS be cooler than the coolant in your block and heads. Without a fan and shroud, you cannot be confident this situation will always exist.
Also, there are lots of variations in rad core/fin design. Some rads present a very high pressure drop at any significant airflow rate. This is particularly true if the core columns are staggered instead of "lined up". These need a fan/shroud combo that can still "pull" air at higher static pressures, instead of stalling.
Other cores are quite open. Check out the core design on a Cat someday.
If a coolant system is working properly, coolant temperature should mirror the exhaust temperature, except lower and with a lag.
Also, if you have a cooling system that is sized large enough, you should be able to tell when your thermostat opens by observing the (analog) temp. guage.
The coolant in your rad should ALWAYS be cooler than the coolant in your block and heads. Without a fan and shroud, you cannot be confident this situation will always exist.
Also, there are lots of variations in rad core/fin design. Some rads present a very high pressure drop at any significant airflow rate. This is particularly true if the core columns are staggered instead of "lined up". These need a fan/shroud combo that can still "pull" air at higher static pressures, instead of stalling.
Other cores are quite open. Check out the core design on a Cat someday.
A
Anonymous
Guest
I too run warm even with a 4 row radiator, stock fan and an aux pusher fan. The engine is new and the thermostat was replaced with the new engine. I have my timing set at 6 degrees. I may bump it up to 10 and see what it does.
Just flushed the coolant (07/09/05) and didn't get any rust at all.
But I'll try advancing the timing.
BTW sorry for the thread jack.
Just flushed the coolant (07/09/05) and didn't get any rust at all.
But I'll try advancing the timing.
BTW sorry for the thread jack.
CougarT
Well-known member
http://www.theautoist.com/vacuum_guage.htm
The above link talks about the basics of setting timing with a vacuum gauge.
1. connect the gauge to manifold vacuum, not the carb port
2. disconnect carb vacuum line from distributor
3. adjust distributor until the vacuum reading is highest.
It's worth checking out the timing achieved this way with a timing light to see where you're at. Then reconnect the vacuum line (which is connected to the correct carb port?) and then use the timing light again to see if the timing changes much at idle when connected (it shouldn't change much).
The above link talks about the basics of setting timing with a vacuum gauge.
1. connect the gauge to manifold vacuum, not the carb port
2. disconnect carb vacuum line from distributor
3. adjust distributor until the vacuum reading is highest.
It's worth checking out the timing achieved this way with a timing light to see where you're at. Then reconnect the vacuum line (which is connected to the correct carb port?) and then use the timing light again to see if the timing changes much at idle when connected (it shouldn't change much).
66200i6
Famous Member
Step back and take this one step at a time. Find a way to confirm that the temperature of the radiator is elevated. If the heat created by the engine is being transferred to the radiator then the next step is to remove the heat by passing cooler air the radiator fins.
Run a test to confirm that you are getting good airflow through the radiator fins with the fan configuration you are using now. Are you a smoker or do you have a buddy that smokes? Light one up and while the car is running exhale a stream of smoke across the front of the grill (with the hood down). All of the smoke should be sucked through the radiator fins if the fan is functioning properly.
If your fan is not creating a negative pressure at idle, this will become a problem at highway speeds. At highway speeds there will be a positive pressure forward of the radiator grill. If there isn’t a good negative pressure aft of the grill (engine side) the problem with the fan will compound at highway speeds keeping the air needed for cooling from passing through the radiator fins.
Good luck, Ric.
Run a test to confirm that you are getting good airflow through the radiator fins with the fan configuration you are using now. Are you a smoker or do you have a buddy that smokes? Light one up and while the car is running exhale a stream of smoke across the front of the grill (with the hood down). All of the smoke should be sucked through the radiator fins if the fan is functioning properly.
If your fan is not creating a negative pressure at idle, this will become a problem at highway speeds. At highway speeds there will be a positive pressure forward of the radiator grill. If there isn’t a good negative pressure aft of the grill (engine side) the problem with the fan will compound at highway speeds keeping the air needed for cooling from passing through the radiator fins.
Good luck, Ric.
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
I fixed the problem, I just pushed the car off a cliff. ..........just kidding, I haven't had time to do any more experiments as of late and am going on vacation thursday. But when I get back im going to tear into it again. I'll keep eveyone posted.
A
Anonymous
Guest
cfmustang":183h039u said:
I went to Pep Boys and first asked for a 66 200 lower radiator hose. No luck, then asked for any ford 200 between 1966 and 81. Found a later ford hose that fit perfectly with an embedded wire spring in inside the rubber part. $20 for both upper and lower hoses.
Cheers,
Steve-O
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