Still searching for 1 barrel carb solutions.....

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I went to the holley website today as the '63 comet I had a few years back had an aftermarket holley 1bbl, but it does not appear they make one now. I seem to be running out of ideas- I can't believe nobody makes a new one barrel carb that can be run on our engines :? I just want to bolt something on and go, but don't want to go the pony carbs route and know from experience that parts house rebuilt carbs are a waste of time/$. As I've said before, the 1100 carbs I have are all junk. I'd like to buy something new but can't find anything.

Does the carb flange on the '78 or newer 200 have the same 3 5/8 bolt pattern with the 1.75 hole as the 250 from the early 70's had, or is it differant? I may look for some mid 70's cars if I get time to check out some wrecking yards next weekend. I know the 1101 can be mated to the smaller manifold via modifying the heater plate, but would like to get a carb I can use on the late 70's 200 as well in case I get one. The deal on the rebuilt '78 200 fell through, but I just found a wrecked fairmont near my house....... but for now I just want my 170 to run :wink:

S-man
 
I feel your pain..but maybe all symptoms are not the same.

I had hard starting problems, trouble idling, and trouble staying running while waiting at stops. This wasnt always the case. I did at one time have a fine tuned engine, but the carb was old, needed to be rebuilt and I bought a rebuild kit. The results werent what I thought. So I got a carb from Carburetor exchange. $179 I asked for an Autolite 1100. The carb I had was an autolite 1100. (As identified by the tech at Pony carbs with a dig pix)

The carb I got from CE was no exactly the same as what i had. The new carb had two accelerator pumps and adjustment was a little different. bottom line for me...was that I just bolted the thing on...adjusted the idle and the next day reset the choke. All has been perfect since then.

Is this what youare looking for? :shock:
 
Sedanman":35vfb5le said:
I just want to bolt something on and go
Click to expand...

Hey Thor. Why not just go get a carb from your parts house??? You won't find a new 1bbl other than the little Webers or some old/rare NOS carb.

Most parts stores have a 1 yr warranty on their carbs. That should be plenty - if it will last you a year it'll probably last a little longer.

The later 200 pattern is the same as the 250 pattern - the 1.75" throat. You can go with a bunch of Holley carbs (1904, 1909, 1940) for a bolt on or a Holley 1946 or Carter (YF, YFA, or RBS) if you don't mind adapting for the larger throat like the Autolite 1101.
 
Howdy,

As I stated a few days ago, I just installed a remanf. YF Carter for a 240 big block six on my 200. It works great, and like you said, "...just bolt on and go." Ak Miller had done this for the best all around in performance and economy both, and I got it at my local auto parts store. Good luck.

Kirk ' 73 Bronco
 
Jammer":1lh4vcwf said:
I had hard starting problems, trouble idling, and trouble staying running while waiting at stops. This wasnt always the case. I did at one time have a The carb I got from CE was no exactly the same as what i had. The new carb had two accelerator pumps and adjustment was a little different. bottom line for me...was that I just bolted the thing on...adjusted the idle and the next day reset the choke. All has been perfect since then.
Click to expand...

Sounds like the Carb you got from CE was an automatic 1100. The manual tranny 1100s only have one pump, the automatics had 2. Does it matter? Not really, at least not with a manual tranny. In fact, a couple of car experts I talked too prefered the auto 1100 for that reason, it tend to run a little smoother.

Slade
 
I just posted a really clean Holley 1904 or 1940 (I can never remember) carb on this web sites for sale page. I'm selling on eBay and currently still at $25.
It works fine, I just went to a original Autolite 1100.
Perhaps this Holley carb may be what you need. It has about 300 miles use on it.
E-mail if I can help.
Cheers,
Steve
 
After trying two different 1100's and a weber 38/38 I have gone to a Pony Carburetors rebuilt 1100. All problems went away; hot starting, hot stalling, irregular idle and just plain worn out/ broken parts, plus it is supposedly reengineered to eliminate factory defects. The 1100 may have been slightly inferior when new, but after 40+ years every one you find will be worn out and modified by POs to the point of it being useless. The weber's are great if you want to modify and spend time to jet and you still have a carb not made for the application that likes to stall and hesitate in some situations when going around corners even when regulated. The Pony Carbs 1100 was the best thing I did so far and for $200 it isn't badly priced. Plus if it gives trouble, just send it back. Combine it with a stock operating loadamatic distributor w/points running an MSD 5 (only $90, and who needs an MSD 6 if you arent running over 6500 RPM or running a magnetic distributor) you will get gas mileage, excellent starts, a stock look and maybe a little performance increase

Aaron
 
Let's see if I can reply to everone at once :)

Regarding pony carbs, the mating surface on both of the lids I have are warped beyond repair, so they would be no good as a core. The last time I sent them a carb, the original off my 170, they said it was not the original and would not accept it as a core. They wanted to charge me over $200. I got the runaround several times and don't want to go back- esp. since I eventually am going to a bigger 200 with other mods.

kirkallen143,

I didn't think the carter was bolt on to an early 170/200- doesen't the 240 carb take a bigger flange/bolt pattern? How would I adapt that to my 1.5 in hole and small bolt pattern? Also, without one to exchange, I'd have to pay for a core. How much was your's?

Regarding parts house rebuilt carbs, I went through several TOMCO brand rebuilt 1100's on my old comet a few years back (that's the only brand I've found locally) and they all ran like crap. I noticed that they all had the vent rod hole plugged for some reason- not sure if this had an affect on the way the car ran on not. I also like my manual choke, and know a later carb I exchange for will not have one.

Suppossing I DID decide to try this route again, what carb would I order? The 1101 will not fit on my intake, correct? Or can I jus modify the heater plate to get it to fit? I thought the bolt pattern on the 70's sixes was larger. I have the '68 distributor, so I'd need a '68 or newer carb. Since I may end of with a late 70's 200 (have not gotten ahold of the fairmont's owner yet) I'd rather buy a large flange carb and adapt it temporarilly to the small flange as I can't put a small flange carb on the larger flang, can
I? If I don't buy this wrecked fairmont, I'll probably be rebuilding my '65 200 and keeping the stock head. Mavericks and fairmonts with the big log head are not easy to find in yards around here.

Steve-O,

What venturi size is that holley, and how much cfm is it rated at?

Inliner,

The new "little" weber you speak of- I've been asking for more info in another thread with no response. I've heard others have been happy with this as a replacement, but where do I find one? The ICH I see listed in my old clifford catalog is listed at only 150 cfm. Falcon62 mentioned a 32 ICB as being bigger but did not say by how much. Stock 200's need about 175 cfm, right?

S-man
 
Kirk,

what carbs fit, and what is the flange bolt patter/intake hole size? I keep hoping to just find another engine to bolt in and decide on the carb then, but things never seem to go in the right order :roll:
 
Cobra...thanks for the tip on the auto 1100....it was a strange thing for sure when I opened the box..

Sedanman...I had gone the Pony route with the same experience, I sent them back their carb and they sent me back mine...I put it back on after the rebuild...but this new one is so smooth...and its a bolt on..and its an Autolite 1100..so can this work for you? My car is a real daily driver and I like the fact that I can just get in...startup and go...I got no extra mods besides the Pertronix I and the open air cleaner.
 
Sedanman,

The head I'm using has a D7 casting number with 1.75" carb openeing and has the larger stud spread , I don't know the dementions off the top of my head. I am currently running a Holley 1946, but it also opens up the possibility of using Carter YF's as well, I would think that these are much easier to source than the older autolites. I am lucky in that there are many of these late 70's early 80's cars are still plentiful in the yards here.
 
Howdy Thor and All:

Adapting the Autolite 1101 is relatively easy. It will require two modifications. 1st, slot the mounting stud holes to fit the narrower stance of the early head mounting bolts. 2nd, taper the opening of the carb mounting plate to accomodate the larger throttle bore and butterfly valve of the 1101.

The best part is that the stock linkage and air cleaner should bolt right up. The down side is that you will no longer have a Spark Control Valve. Since you have a '68 distributor, this will not be a problem. Attach the vacuum advance line to the ported source on the carb.

The 1101 was a nice upgrade on my original '65 200. It and the distributor were one of the first upgrades I made. What a difference! I had no trouble what-so-ever. I did do a thorough cleaning of the gas tank and lines when I first got the Roo, and added new filters. Cleanliness is critical with these carbs, as well as regular maintainance. The accelerator pumps never seem to last much more than a year or 2 depending on driving conditions. The Automatic trans carbs, seem to make better rebuild cores than the standard trans cores. Throttle shafts always seem tighter, and the double pumpers seem to help transitions.

Adios, David
 
Hi David,

If I were to try and go the 1101 route, what year carb would I look for, 1969? Will the Carter adapt in the same manner as you say above? I think those would be more plentiful since the 1101 was made for such a short time, and besides, won't the 1101 have the same inherant reliability issues as the 1100? My concern about the carter is the lack of aftermarket jets available as opossed to the holley.

Regarding the distributor issue, since the '68 1100 has the smaller 170 venturi resulting in less power, then will running an earlier '65-'67 1100 mismatched to my '68 distributor cause any more of a power loss? It sound's like it does not really matter!


I checked with the parts house today on the price of a '68 1100 and it was about $85- more than I'd like to pay for a rebuilt carb but I'm keeping it in consideration. The brand they carry is "autoline". The cherry but wrecked fairmont down the street that I was hoping to snag the engine out of dissapeared in the last 2 days- and my note is still on the front door. So much for that idea!

Phil,

Thanks for the pic. That is differant than the holley on my old comet- it was similar to the one that Steve-O has for sale and I will PM him about
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... AMESE%3AIT

If I am buying another carb, I'd like it to be for a 200 with the larger venturi. Steve's holley may be the best route depending on what venturi size it is- it look's like I will be using my '65 200 head now that the fairmont is gone and my other '78 200 deal fell through.

I'd still like to know more about the webber one barrel that I've heard of but nobody seem's to know about as it would be nice to have something new that's not warped or with a loose throttle shaft :wink: Thanks for all your help, guys!

Thor
 
and it MAY prodcue better gas milage..WILL produce beter performance....
 
Regarding the venturi size...I really don't know what size it is. As far as CFM...with a single barrel I guess you'd be lucky to get 150 to 175 maybe.
e-mail me with any questions I can answer or more pics/close ups if you'd like.
sgozzo1_removethisto email@yahoo.com
Cheers,
Steve-O
 
Don't forget that you can always drill jets out using a jet drill assortment. It is not hard. If you go to big you can solder the jet closed and redrill it, not the preffered method but it works fine.

Aaron
 
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