Three carbs and a choke..

[kspageddie]

I am in the process of building my 3 carb set up and I have a questions about the choke. The hot air choke is not going to work, no room. So I guess I am going to have to convert the center card to a manual choke. I bought a Mr Gasket Choke cable today and I am not sure how to hook it up. If any one could help or take a pic of their manual choke carb it would help out a lot.

Now, with the three carbs would I need a choke? It should have plenty of fuel at start up, shouldn't it?

Any help you can provide would rock!!

 

[Anonymous]

No choke needed on the outside carbs.

Can't help with the choke set-up my center one was already a manual choke, just hooked the cable up.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[kspageddie]

what did the cable hook to? directly to the choke plate?

 

[Anonymous]

what did the cable hook to? directly to the choke plate?

normally you can remove 95% of the choke activation mechanism and replace most with the just a few parts in the conversion kit. This will be on the end on the rod the choke plate mounts on, on the outside of the carb. The whole deal is to look at it as simply as possible. Have had a lot of these kits and many times ended up with them working backwards due to location possibilities and not wanting to do a bunch of modifications -- makes it darn near impossible for someone to steal it that way.

 

[kspageddie]

I just took a lunch hour trip to NAPA. I purchased the complete chock conversion kit part number 732-1165 ($17.49 plus tax). I looks really simple to hook up. I am going to try it tonite if it is not too cold. It sucks working until 8:00 pm. By the time I eat dinner its 10:00 before I get out to the unheated garage..lol

I'll post an update. Thanks

 

[kspageddie]

Hand Choke is on and it works. Cable routing was tricky but not to bad. Now that I can get it to start cold. However, it only runs with the choke closed. I had it running today for about 1/2 hour ( its not drivable yet on the street yet ) and if i open the choke it dies. If thought that the car running at 1500 RPM for a half hour on a 45 degree day would be more than warm enough to run with the choke open. So, why doesn't it want to run? If I open the choke even alittle it dies. Any suggestions?

 

[JackFish]

I suppose I'd check the idle screw adjustment first. General setting is about 2 1/2 turns out, I think.

 

[kspageddie]

No matter where I adjust the idle screw it still dies after I pull the choke out. I changed the T-stat this evening thinking that it was stuck and was not allowing the engine to heat up. That still did not help. So where should my next move be? Should I rebuild the carb? ( I am trying to get it to run on one carb so I can baseline the motor before I install the other 2 carbs) Thanks

 

[66200i6]

Sounds like it is starving for fuel. Confirm that the other carb mountings are completely caped.

How many turns out is the idel mixture screw.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[kspageddie]

The other carbs mountings are completley closed. I made two block off plates and used gaskets under the plates to seal them off. No matter where I adjust the idle screws nothing works. I even screwed the idle screw completely in and still, it will not run without the choke on. Wonder if it could be the float?

 

[Anonymous]

Look down the carb throat and pump the gas and see if it is squirting fuel. If not you just ain't getting gas. Very often when doing an off the wall set-up, trash has a way of working into the carb(s) and causing problems-as a matter of fact my off the wall 200 suddenly wouldn't go today unless i drove off just the acc. pump by teasing the gas at low rpm. I got it home and took off the 2bbl and trash from a failed fuel line had clogged up 1 side of the squirter and both main jets.
If any air at all can get by the plates on your outboard carbs you will also have fits getting it to run without full choke. I used expandable rubber freeze plugs to close mine off till i mounted them. There is a tremendous amount of suction on those ports.

 

[kspageddie]

She gets gas when I pull on the accelator. I am going to check for vacuum leaks around my outboard carbs tomorrow nite ( can't miss USC vs Texas tonite ). Hopefully that will fix my problem. I am getting exciting about getting the car to run on just the one carb before I throw the other two carbs at it.

Danwagon, I love the set up you have!

 

[Anonymous]

Danwagon, I love the set up you have!

Not the way to go for quick install and go--but a lot of fun. I found i was overtigtening a nut on 1 of the Weber's butterfly shafts and that was causing a TINY throttle opening on that carb which made the set-up incredibly problematic till i figured it out. My point being -even a tiny leak at the outboard carbs will cause you fits- those rubber freeze plugs are very cheap and come in a large veriety of sizes and are available at any parts store..
I agree with the idea of getting it running good on 1 carb before dealing with 3. If you eliminate the leak possibilities and still have a problem I'd dismantle the center carb and clean it out real well.
I have figured out i get about 25MPG if i keep my foot out of the secondaries and can get it down around 10MPG if i play hard.

 

[Gene 64 2dr]

Have you tried putting trying one of the other carbs in place of the one your having trouble with? That would rule out the one your using now. Another thing I've tried with vacum leaks is when you do have it running try spraying a little bit of carb cleaner around the the spots you think there my be a leak. If there is a leak the rpm should change if the cleaner is sucked in.