Turbo 300 in a F150
- Thread starter Turbo_B
- Start date
I just started to try and tune mine last night. Anything would help from what I have. barely drivable05/10/2010 - engine is still with the machinist.
He has finally finished the block +0.030
Finished the crank -0.010/-0.010
rods are finished and have pistons on them
He was working the head today- removing the valve guides.
Today he indicated I should be able to have the engine back this week- I am somewhat skeptical, but very ready to get the pickup back on the road!
He has finally finished the block +0.030
Finished the crank -0.010/-0.010
rods are finished and have pistons on them
He was working the head today- removing the valve guides.
Today he indicated I should be able to have the engine back this week- I am somewhat skeptical, but very ready to get the pickup back on the road!
I am going to use the factory FPR unless it begins to cause trouble.
I went and picked up the bottom end of the engine from the machine shop. The head is having new seats put in.
This machine shop deals mostly with the local race car teams and as such the guaranteed work from the teams is his primary focus- this has been a back burner project for him.
I'll post a few pictures from the block assembly- no art here!
Here is the ARP stud interference with the oil pump. I read a few posts on the forum and opted to cut the stud and grind the pump body. Be careful, there is not much material in the pump to remove.
I just realized that photobucket will allow me to insert clickable thumbnails-!
I went and picked up the bottom end of the engine from the machine shop. The head is having new seats put in.
This machine shop deals mostly with the local race car teams and as such the guaranteed work from the teams is his primary focus- this has been a back burner project for him.
I'll post a few pictures from the block assembly- no art here!
Here is the ARP stud interference with the oil pump. I read a few posts on the forum and opted to cut the stud and grind the pump body. Be careful, there is not much material in the pump to remove.
I just realized that photobucket will allow me to insert clickable thumbnails-!
More build pictures.
My carefully cleaned, etch primed, painted lower intake manifold cracked in two places while following fords torque sequence. Torque to 35lb, I was at 25lb when it snapped. Went and got a dirty manifold from PAP to replace my clean one.
It too broke while following fords sequence. A sharply machined edge creates a stress riser on these things- so I welded my first cast aluminum and fixed the crack and then radiused(with weld) any place that looked like a potential stress riser.
Had a cast iron water outlet originally, cleaned, primed, painted like the manifold. It too broke, had one hand on a 3/8" ratchet and the ear broke off. Found an aluminum one at Advance Auto.
Smog pump had also seized and had to take it apart for cleaning.
My carefully cleaned, etch primed, painted lower intake manifold cracked in two places while following fords torque sequence. Torque to 35lb, I was at 25lb when it snapped. Went and got a dirty manifold from PAP to replace my clean one.
It too broke while following fords sequence. A sharply machined edge creates a stress riser on these things- so I welded my first cast aluminum and fixed the crack and then radiused(with weld) any place that looked like a potential stress riser.
Had a cast iron water outlet originally, cleaned, primed, painted like the manifold. It too broke, had one hand on a 3/8" ratchet and the ear broke off. Found an aluminum one at Advance Auto.
Smog pump had also seized and had to take it apart for cleaning.
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
I had this happen as well on one of my heads I had. The mounting surface where the tab touched was not flat due to a poor head recondition (welded spot that was not flattened properly). It breaks VERY easy if not flat. I checked my head that I have now for flatness so I didn't do it again.
It finally runs! Of course, it is still fighting with me. First drive the truck ran great. Shut it off and tried to restart and nothing but a slow starter. Figured the battery was dead so I charged it for an hour and the truck fired right up. Drove to the parts store tonight for a battery and alternator test. Shut it off after a 20 minute drive and it would not restart! Nearly 600 amp draw when attempting to start.
Bought a new starter(changed it in the parts store parking lot) and it fired right up. Of course, the starter which I replaced tonight only had about 3500 miles on it...
Emerald, what are you using for a fuel pressure reg on your 300?
Bought a new starter(changed it in the parts store parking lot) and it fired right up. Of course, the starter which I replaced tonight only had about 3500 miles on it...
Emerald, what are you using for a fuel pressure reg on your 300?
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
I adapted this to my fuel rail. I have the two bolt rail, so I just had to elongated the holes on the new regulator because the regulator is for a 3.8l/4.6l. I haven't had any problems yet. Its adjustable and goes up to 75 psi, so you can still run stock 4.9l fuel pressure (~58 psi) and about 10 psi boost without maxing out the regulator. I had to unbolt the op protion and turn it 180 so the hose nipple pointed towards the inside of the manifold for easier/safer/cleaner hose routing.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10681/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PFS-10681/
Emerald 74 4X4
Well-known member
Just touching 8 psi, but I have to make sure the RPMs are in the 1800 and above range before I let it go up that pressure with 87 octane. It will do 5 psi all day long. It likes 90 octane much better at 7 and 8 psi.
Thanks Emerald, I worked on the tune for a few miles last night and was not seeing the AFRs increase the way I had anticipated. Sometimes I could land a low 12afr, other times it would run a 14afr - at the same MAP and RPM bins.
It pulled a good trick on me with the starter last night. I figured I had an alternator problem since the truck would start fine at first then get slower and slower to start the longer I messed with it. So last night I drove to the parts store to check out the alternator.
Dang thing wouldn't restart at the parts store! But they had their amp probe on it when I tried to crank it- nearly 600amp draw when cranking!!!
Changed the starter in the parking lot with borrowed tools (which I returned to the manager as he was locking up the store!). Truck starts fine now, going back tonight to have the alternator checked.
It pulled a good trick on me with the starter last night. I figured I had an alternator problem since the truck would start fine at first then get slower and slower to start the longer I messed with it. So last night I drove to the parts store to check out the alternator.
Dang thing wouldn't restart at the parts store! But they had their amp probe on it when I tried to crank it- nearly 600amp draw when cranking!!!
Changed the starter in the parking lot with borrowed tools (which I returned to the manager as he was locking up the store!). Truck starts fine now, going back tonight to have the alternator checked.
I have been struggling with processor resets due to wiring issues with the ford.
It appears that Ford used a single power wire to drive all of the 12v applications on the engine, and then grounded them all on a single ground wire. Megasquirt was NOT impressed.
I picked up a spare engine harness from the junk yard and removed all of the emissions equipment wires and then provided individual power and ground to each module or sensor on the engine. Have had to go through the engine bay and sand all of the body ground points and the ground wires that attach to them- even the stock ones.
My signals are all pretty stable now, I have gotten away from the false triggering TPS, the 435 degree temp spikes, and the 3+ volt spikes and drops in the voltage to megasquirt. The processor resets are almost gone except for on occasion it will reset a bunch of times in a row for no apparent reason. I have driven the truck 60 miles with not a single reset, then yesterday on the way to work I got 12 in a row and then none on the way home from work.
Going to add some accessory grounds to the cab and battery when I get time.
This drives almost like a stock truck with more power- next up is to get the IAC working!
It appears that Ford used a single power wire to drive all of the 12v applications on the engine, and then grounded them all on a single ground wire. Megasquirt was NOT impressed.
I picked up a spare engine harness from the junk yard and removed all of the emissions equipment wires and then provided individual power and ground to each module or sensor on the engine. Have had to go through the engine bay and sand all of the body ground points and the ground wires that attach to them- even the stock ones.
My signals are all pretty stable now, I have gotten away from the false triggering TPS, the 435 degree temp spikes, and the 3+ volt spikes and drops in the voltage to megasquirt. The processor resets are almost gone except for on occasion it will reset a bunch of times in a row for no apparent reason. I have driven the truck 60 miles with not a single reset, then yesterday on the way to work I got 12 in a row and then none on the way home from work.
Going to add some accessory grounds to the cab and battery when I get time.
This drives almost like a stock truck with more power- next up is to get the IAC working!
what sensors do you have hooked up to it, and one of the confusing things I've run into is with connecting them I know theres alot more reading through the manuals and help forums I need to do, but when you connect the MS and the sensors are you just splicing into the wire going while its connected to the original wiring harness or do you separate them and make it its own system.
Check out my post just three from the bottom of this thread. If you use the Ford wiring you will have problems- Mustang guys have run into this as well.
I am using the Ford IAT, CLT, TPS, IAC, and TFI. Bias resistors make it possible to use the Ford IAT and CLT. I have been told by a Mustang tuner that the GM IAT is quicker responding than the Ford. Not to mention the Ford sensor in its stock location heat soaks like none I have ever seen before- to the point that my IATs drop in boost.
The PNP setup I built has been abandoned. Its all covered in this thread.
Let me know if you have any other questions or need clarification.
I am using the Ford IAT, CLT, TPS, IAC, and TFI. Bias resistors make it possible to use the Ford IAT and CLT. I have been told by a Mustang tuner that the GM IAT is quicker responding than the Ford. Not to mention the Ford sensor in its stock location heat soaks like none I have ever seen before- to the point that my IATs drop in boost.
The PNP setup I built has been abandoned. Its all covered in this thread.
Let me know if you have any other questions or need clarification.