Turbo 300 in a F150

I have abandoned the Ford IAT sensor in favor of a GM sensor. The Ford in its stock location heatsoaks terribly and the GM sensor is smaller and faster responding. Went out tuning with a friend last night, on 5 psi and low timing this thing will pull strongly from 1700 rpm in 5th gear clear to 80mph and is still going strong.

30lb/hr injectors on 5psi with a 10.8AFR peaked out at 57% duty cycle so I have some room to grow.

I have a few more miles before it goes on the dyno, but once that happens I will share the results.
 
Sounds about like mine. I keep neglecting to observe my duty cycle. I'm running 36 lb/hr injectors, but I also have a different cam and oversize valves.

I have to move my IAT too. I noticed the heat soak off the bat. Haven't decided where to put it yet. You using a boost controller? I need to get my wastegate a little more under control.

Sounds like fun!
 
Emerald, I will be running a boost controller in a few more miles. I have a manual one that isn't hooked up. End target will be 10psi if the fuel system will support it.

My cam is a Comp Cams 260H.

I moved the IAT sensor to the intake pipe just before it "Y"s into the throttle body.
 
Have been struggling with voltage spikes while the truck is under load. The voltage becomes unstable as injector duty cycle increases.


Turns out this problem is actually documented and has a solution!
Megamanual point#16


Its a problem with low Z injectors and the flyback circuit. I modded my board and seem to have stopped the stumbles and processor resets, but I still have some voltage spikes, although they are less severe.
 
Your running low impedance injectors? I haven't had an issue since I'm running high impedance. How are the low Z ones working out besides the problems you described? I think they are too much of a pain to deal with on the megasquirt with the flyback board and extra testing.
 
I have the MS1 on board version 3 so it has a flyback circuit on board. I have driven 4 low-z injectors before with no problems, but driving 6 is throwing new issues at me.

Tuning the truck has been easy so far, did some basic setup on the PWM time and current limiting and it tunes like a high-z injector. The 30lb Volvo injectors were free to me, thats why I ended up with low-z.

They are supposed to be faster responding than the high-z, but at this point I can't tell a difference. I am considering a set of high-z replacements!

I have a post about this issue on the Megasquirt forum, if they provide a solution I will be sure to share it.
 
Ah ok I gotcha now. Yeah, not sure if you'll notice a difference between the low and high in a setup like ours. Maybe if you run multple squirts per stroke, you may find that is where the difference would come up. Then again, you would have to notice the difference between running minimal squirts and multiple squirts to notice a difference like that.
 
I moved the ground wires to the engine and received the same amount of noise.

I found that if I set my PWM time to 25ms then the noise was reduced to about a 0.2 volt swing, although still very rapid.

I reset my PWM current limit to 35% and the PWM time to 7.5ms and the fluctuations were a rapid 0.5v swing.

FYI, these are turbo Volvo injectors from a 90+ RWD car.

Needless to say, this isn't the response I had expected from a V3 board!

Going to keep digging for more stability from the system.
 
Been about a month since my last post - The truck is running great now, few small things to iron out and clean up the wiring but its about right.

Ended up swapping to a set of GM injectors from a 3800 SC engine. Those are 36lb/hr injectors. These completely stopped my voltage swings and the processor resets.

I also swapped to the HR_11c firmware and greatly improved the idle afr stability.

Electronic boost control is now working, 4psi until 2000rpm then it begins to pull up to 10psi.

Knocksense is working as well.

Went to the junkyard searching for a coilpack noise suppressor and found a ZF5! After forking over $70.54, the ZF5 came home with me.

 
Thats the same size Injectors I am running. I have the older version 1 board with the MSII daughter card. You have the version 3 board correct? My idle seems very hard to get the surge out of. Not matter what I do whether its change EGO settings, play with the VE table, or play with the ignition table, it still has a surge in there. How is the newer MS stuff working on stuff like that? The knock sense works well? I have been thinking about that, but I just keep my ignition table retarded in the boost range to keep it from knocking.
 
The HR code does wonders for idle stability! It took a lot of digging to find the 11c, but its not much different from the 10g. I can post the file if you want it.

You are correct, I am running board 3 processor 1.

My idle wants to run at either a 13afr or surge on the 029y code. On the HR code I can idle at a stable 15.

The knock sense works very well. It does pick up some internal resonance at 4200rpm even when free reving, so I told MS to ignore knocks above 4000rpm. This cam is dead after 5k anyway.

When it is in the 80s outside I dont' get any knock until the 4200rpm resonance, but today it was in the mid 90s and my IAT's were around 98 degrees. I would get knock on 8psi at 3200rpm, the sensor caught it before I could hear it. I turned on my IAT ignition retard today.

I would be interested to see your spark table, I'll send you a PM with my email if thats OK.
 
Been a while since I updated this thread. The truck is still running strong. I did swap over to a larger turbo. the 8cm HY35 was simply too small, at 65mph the engine flows enough air to spool the turbo, but at cruise the manifold is in vacuum causing the blow off valve to open. the turbo whistle with the open BOV made an awful racket!

I found a good used Holset HX35W (12cm turbine) with the 8 blade compressor on the Dodge forum for $225 shipped. After install I was having a severe problem with boost creep. The solution was to "port" the wastegate opening from 20mm to 28mm and install a new flapper valve. I picked a 34mm flapper valve for a Mitsu off of ebay for $25.

I also welded a piece of 3/8" plate to the back of the wastegate/turbo backplate(not the turbine!) and ground through the original Holset backplate. This allowed the WG to open farther. These two modifications stopped the boost creep, it will hold 4 psi to 10 psi steadily.
 
What BOV are you using?

I like the HKS BOV, but it is noisy when you are cruising at 10-0" Hg manifold pressure and you let off the throttle to slow down a bit. If I install a recirculation kit on it, I think it will take care of some of that noise. I don't get unwanted leakage under boost ever though, which is what i like.
 
Quick update, Megasquirt got mad again. It would on occasion begin to run very rich. Tested my fuel pressure, my injectors, worked on the ignition system (which had melted the tip off of the rotor).

Finally I changed my squirts per cycle from 6 to 2. This changed the way the engine ran and the injector duty cycle greatly. Its been about a month since I made the change and it hasn't missed a beat yet.

The HX35 turbo has turned out to be sized very nicely for what I am doing. It is on a non pulse paired manifold, I think it would feel too small if used on a pulse paired manifold.

I have cut my boost back from 10psi. Now at 6 psi until 3800rpm when it climbs to 8psi. (Megasquirt boost control with a MAC 3 way valve). It was running fine at 10psi, but if it climbed over 11 then it would knock uncontrollably, no amount of ignition retard could fix it. Reduction is boost is mostly a reliability thing.






 
Finally worked the truck good. Helped some friends move project cars to a new shop. Pulled a loaded twin axle car hauler around town for a total of 95 miles. Managed 12mpg doing it.

The M5OD is quite the pig when trying to get moving, but it did hold up to me playing with 7psi in 4th gear.
 
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