Turbo'd 250 with milled off intake

[drag-200stang]

fast64ranchero,

Recommending a turbocharger is kinda like picking a cam shaft - your idea of daily driver and the way the car behaves may be different than mine. The recommendations you usually see are for stock engines using stock low rpm cams, no porting, restrictive exhaust. With the modifications you've made I would think you could go up a size or ? I would try the turbo you have. Monitor turbine inlet pressure with a gauge using a small metal oil pressure line. If the pressure is more than - let's say 2.7 X boost pressure - turbine AR or turbine is too small. Also, if you monitor compressor outlet temp, there are calculation charts that you can tell if your compressor is too small and out of efficiency. In the sticky that Linc made up there is a link to Ray Hall's turocharging. Go to turbo calculations and then "find a turbo map" (or something like that). Play with it some and you can see how your engine will work with different turbo maps.

Engine size is 206 ci, wet race weight with driver = 2200 lbs. I figure there was .2 left in the car without raising the boost pressure with launch tuning. Here's a link to more info http://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=31654

 

[Anonymous]

Dang, if he's running 9.85 at 139 with a V1 trim then a S-trim should be good for ~easy~ high 11's!!

 

[fast64ranchero]

Thanks again Drag and Link, I've ran the calc's over and over and ever time they come up my turbo is to small, but I went on what Turbonetics req. but the good thing is with my trans and converter my car will be at full boost when I leave the line! and should supply the motor well till about 5K rpm or so, so I can short shift it, I guess time will tell

 

[Anonymous]

As many cubes as you have, the S-3 will be too small at higher revs. Even the Chevy 4.3 liter Syclone turbos will be a too small, though that is an option. A V1 trim like drag 200 is a pretty easy wheel and housing to find, and any turbo shop can swap cold sides for not much money.

 

[fast64ranchero]

Latest up-date I ordered and recieved my cam It's big but I did what Clay Smith cams wanted/req. 292 duration 240 @50 .528 intake .498 Exh. 112 lobe centers to be set up at 108, duration sounds big to me I guess I'll see, also ordering a new turbo 62-1 P .81 A/R the head is back at the porters for some final clean-up, still waiting on the machine shop to finish the block honing and balancing, nothing like having $11K in a $500 car! like I said if it runs good I'll put it in my 64 Ranchero...

 

[Anonymous]

292 duration 240 @50 .528 intake .498 Exh. 112 lobe centers to be set up at 108, duration sounds big to me

Will be very choppy idle. You must post sound clips when done!

also ordering a new turbo 62-1 P .81 A/R

A much better match. good to 500 HP.

 

[pro94]

ok, I must have missed something. what is the deal with the h beam rods? were did you get those from? did somebody make some for our i6's that I didnt know about?

 

[Anonymous]

You can get custom made ANYTHING with the right amount of $$$$

 

[pro94]

Well since it looks like your going all out on this build. If it were mine I would have the chambers on the heads and the tops of the pistons ceramic coated. It would help prevent predetnation alot.

What did manley charge for the rods?

 

[Anonymous]

...the rods are overkill but needed those to get the stroke, the crank ended up at 4.125 stroke, the pistons are 3.718 if I remember right,

Hmmmm.....possible they are off the shelf rods....

 

[fast64ranchero]

Pro the rods are off the shelf Mitsubishi rods from a late 4G turbo motor the big end is 1.88 5.9055 long, I had the crank offset ground, I still say using a 4.2L jeep rod would have been better (and easier to get pistons for, as I came up with a off the shelf Hyper that will work not forged but better then cast) I'm suppose to have all my parts back from the shop this week, I did order the 62-1 turbo $1355.24 Turbonetics w/ball bearing, and sold my other one. I'm thinking of having it dyno'd what do you guys think? should I spend the money? the plus side is I can tune it prior to it going into the car.

 

[Anonymous]

I'm thinking of having it dyno'd what do you guys think? should I spend the money? the plus side is I can tune it prior to it going into the car.

Have you considered a chassis dyno session instead?
Either way, it's a nice luxury....

 

[fast64ranchero]

Linc, I've done the chassi dyno several times with my Ranchero, but I could get more info from the engine dyno, (wide band O2, exh temp, and break it in under load)

 

[Anonymous]

As long as you have the facilities, go for it!

 

[fast64ranchero]

OK gents it's been a while so I thought I would do an update, well, I have the bottom end together, as always I'm waiting on parts, (rockers and cam chain and gears) seems if you want a timing chain set for an early 250 be prepaired to pay and wait each part has to be ordered seperate, no kit for the early 250's, and the rockers are somewhere between here and Aussi land, anyone have any ideas on how to degree in the cam,? it's not like you can drill the cam spocket, maybe I'll get lucky and find an offset crank key that will work, I also need to find a core C-4 I can rebuild, no biggie there, as that will only take an evening or two. you all have a great Christmas

 

[Anonymous]

anyone have any ideas on how to degree in the cam,? it's not like you can drill the cam spocket, maybe I'll get lucky and find an offset crank key that will work,

any machine shop worth its salt can cut a new keyway anywhere you want in the crank sprocket.

A keyway broach isn't a really expensive tool (relatively) and most shops have it.