Used cam in differnt used motor?

fordconvert

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Im getting ready to put my budget reapair motor back together. The orignal cam is not shot but is getting close. I bought a few other motors and one of them has a fairly good looking cam in it. I have new lifters. I dont have the orignal lifters. I do have the lifters that go with the good cam but was told since its not the same block I should use the new ones. My shop just said to treat it like a new cam for break in and see what happens. Since its all stock (springs/lift/ect..) they dont think its going to be a problem.

What do you guys think?
 
8) it is best to use the same lifters with the good used cam, AS LONG AS you keep the lifters in their proper order. if you cannot do that, then use the new lifters. use plenty of a top quality cam lube(not white grease or engine assembly lube) on the cam lobes when putting the cam in the engine.
 
8)

It is my understanding that the bottom of the lifter wears to match the cam lobe due to the wear pattern and spring load.

Put wrong lifter in and the lifter foot and lobe dont match and you can ruin the cam.

When you use a old cam and dont have old lifters you need to use new lifters and use break in grease so the new lifters foot will wear in to match the cam.

As long as old cam's lobes are still good you shouldnt have a problem.

I have a used 272deg dur and .449 lift cam I bought off a board member and have looked into this as well.
 
I know money is always an issue, but getting a new cam and lifters would be worth the money. Many of the above reasons will show up if you don't. Personally, I'd leave the old cam in there. A worn cam is better then a used cam with possibly mismatching lifters.

Slade
 
If you are able to re-use the corresponding lifters (ie, lobe 1 gets lifter 1 etc) then no worries. Otherwise just use new lifters.
 
I did id the lifters that came with the 'good' cam. I was told that since its a differnt block the lifter bores may be differnt so I would be better off with the new ones.
 
The bore diameter never changed. Long as the crud's all gone and there's no excess wear or lipping, you'll be sweet.

If you like, pull each lifter apart in turn and clean/reassemble. It'll help control the budget, too.
 
I will just use the new ones since I already have them.

I was told that the angle of the lifter bores tended to varry a bit on stock motors that came with flat tappets because it was not critical that they be perfectly square. I guess you find that out trying to fit rollers into a motor that didnt have them. My shop said that they always check that if you plan to use rollers and most of the time they have to re bore them straight.
 
This situation is no different than replacing lifters in an engine that has been running a while. New lifters will be fine; the original lifters would be fine if they are in good condition.

Use a good diesel engine oil such as Delo 400 15w-40 or Rotella 15w-40 for break-in.
Joe
 
My shop threw in a bottle of crane or comp stuff to put in the oil that they said was mostly zinc. They also gave me a packet of green goo for the cam bearings and stickey red goo for the cam lobes. I had the new lifters in motor oil overnight. By the time I was finished getting everything together and checking the preload gap thing it looked like somebody shot a xmas tree under my stand. Red and green spots everywhere. I used some molly grease stuff on the pushrod ends and valve tips. I plan to prime the oil pump with a drill before startup and turning the engine over with the starter (plugs out) with the drill still running the pump before I start it for real.

I didnt touch anything on the bottom end but the rear seal. How long should I run it and at what RPM? I also have a fresh C4, will this cause any special issues? I plan to put in 1/3 of the fluid in before the startup and have someone else put all but the last quart or two as soon as it starts while I mess with the timing and such. After the cam/motor is broke in I plan to run it through the gear ranges with the back wheels off the ground and top off the fluid as needed.
 
fordconvert":1165lec2 said:
I plan to prime the oil pump with a drill before startup and turning the engine over with the starter (plugs out) with the drill still running the pump before I start it for real.

No starter. Turn it by hand....very slowly. One full turn (over the course of 20-30 seconds) is all you need to do.

fordconvert":1165lec2 said:
I didnt touch anything on the bottom end but the rear seal. How long should I run it and at what RPM?

I would run it at 1400-1700 rpm for 15 minutes. Add trans fluid while breaking in the cam.

fordconvert":1165lec2 said:
I also have a fresh C4, will this cause any special issues? I plan to put in 1/3 of the fluid in before the startup and have someone else put all but the last quart or two as soon as it starts while I mess with the timing and such.

Is it a dry oil cooler? Dry converter?
If so....I always put it to the full mark on the dipstick, then add 3 more quarts right before start up. You'll still need to add another quart or two as the converter and cooler fill up. Just don't forget to add more oil as needed.
 
I was thinking of turning it by hand, makes sense that one turn would do it, or maybe 2 since that would make the cam go all the way around and move all the rockers and lifters.

Transmission is dry.
 
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