Good oil/additive for cleaning sludge?

P

pachecoj

New member
I took my valve cover off last weekend to replace the gasket and the whole valvetrain was coated in sludge. This was the first time I've had the VC off so it could be that it has never been off since the car was built, I don't know.

Anyway, I cleaned what I could, no more sludge, but I'm sure there is just as much ugliness throughout the engine.

Does anybody recommend an oil or additive that is good for cleaning this sludge out? Even if it means I have to change the oil and filter every few weeks for a while that is fine.

Jason
 
ATF.

Pour a quart in, run the enigne for 50 miles max. Don't go over 55 mph. Then change the oil like normal.
 
You may not want to re-distribute the sludge. Moving it around sometimes can cause more problems. Only time I tried de-sludging stuff, wiped main bearings due to clogged oil pickup screen. maybe coincidence ... 8)
 
I second the ATF, don't run too long on it, it works great, keep an eye on your oil pressure afterward, don't want to have the clogged pickup screen like powerband...

Ben
 
8) i also recommend the ATF treatment, but you need to be a bit aggressive at this point. use 3qts AFT and 2qts engine oil, run the engine for 20 minutes at idle or low speed, dont go over 25 mph if you drive the car. then change the oil and filter. change it again at 500 miles with a quality high detergent oil. change again at 1000 miles, and then observe normal change intervals.
 
I asked a friend of mine yesterday, an older gentleman, and he said back in the day they used to run like 3qts oil to 2qts kerosene for a few minutes, then drain.

He had also mentioned adding ATF so I may do that since I have a bunch lying around.

Jason
 
pachecoj":2brfpknv said:
I asked a friend of mine yesterday, an older gentleman, and he said back in the day they used to run like 3qts oil to 2qts kerosene for a few minutes, then drain.

He had also mentioned adding ATF so I may do that since I have a bunch lying around.

Jason
Click to expand...

for the Ford Model T engines, you were supposed to drain the pan, fill with kerosene, then run the car for something like 10 minutes, then drain that and fill with new oil

so, if he's advocating a process that was used for the Model T... i don't think i'd follow it for a modern vehicle
 
I too just took off my valve cover the other day and found a lot of sludge build up all over the valve train , (amazing how the engine still runs with the amount of sludge on there).

Anyway , I was reading more about the Auto-Rx http://www.auto-rx.com and it sounds pretty good but a bit pricey.

Has anybody else tried this product? Thanks.
 
Seafoam is top engine cleaner, not stuff you add to the crankcase.

I will also back up the ATF trick...and driving it wont hurt...as long as you follow the directions below...since it took your engine several years to build up the sludge, don't expect a miracle cure.

Change your oil and filter like normal...add 1qt. ATF to the crankcase and top off with 10-30W...use the cheapest oil you can find.

You can drive you car just like normal but frown on doing hard starts and hard acceleration...the mechanic who taught me this trick drove his blazer for 6 weeks or so bebore it was good as new...his was really bad!...he had a 1 hour commute, mostly freeway...all you do is change your oil/filter every 500 miles and keep adding the ATF until all clean...the engine really needs to get to running temp for more then 20 minutes for the detergent in the ATF to actually work good...this is why you buy the cheapest oil you can find...after the engine is to your standard, then you can use some better quality oil.

After the 6 weeks, my mechanic friend showed me his valve train cuz he had to change the gaskets...I was amazed on how clean that thing was!

Dave 8)
 
Falcon Ranch,

Thanks for the info.

What is this Seafoam? Wher can I buy it?

Also , instead of adding 1qt. ATF , is it OK to add more like maybe 3qts. of ATF? Cuz one of the replys on here said to be a little more aggressive and put 3qts. ATF and 2qts. engine oil.
 
I wouldn't. Why take the chance on ruining something so expensive, when you could just flush it again if you needed to? ATF doesn't build up the protective film nearly as good as oil.

Seafoam is at any parts store, wal-mart, etc.
 
Where I'm at, you can buy Seafoam at most all of the auto parts places. It is also available at Wal-Mart and Rural King. It is a versatal product that can be used in the crankcase as well as in the fuel system. Buy a can and try it, following the directions on the can. I use it regularly in my truck and I highly recomend it.
 
If you want to clean the top of your engine...this is removing carbon build-up on the pistons/chambers and deposits around the valves...

Water is free!...using a spray bottle, run the engine between 2000-2500rpm and with the air cleaner removed, spray the water directly into the carb as a mist...it will want to die out which is normal...keep spraying until it almost stalls out, then stop spraying until the rpm's are back up...repeat this procedure 4-5 times...and then let it idle for a few minutes...you will be amazed on how much smoother your engine will run...and it doesn't cost a dime!

What the water will do is heat up to the point past super heated steam...this will loosen and remove most carbon build up...it's like a top end steam cleaner.

Dave 8)
 
JMB":1gv3i5xe said:
I too just took off my valve cover the other day and found a lot of sludge build up all over the valve train , (amazing how the engine still runs with the amount of sludge on there).

Anyway , I was reading more about the Auto-Rx http://www.auto-rx.com and it sounds pretty good but a bit pricey.

Has anybody else tried this product? Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yup, I've run it in 3 of my vehicles (it's actually in the Ranger and the Falcon right now). So far it has already started to improve compression in the Falcon and it's only been in about 300 miles. The valvetrain is quieting down but that has always come and gone over the years so I'm not sure that Auto-RX is the cause.
 
Falcon Ranch":273f2qkl said:
If you want to clean the top of your engine...this is removing carbon build-up on the pistons/chambers and deposits around the valves...

Water is free!...using a spray bottle, run the engine between 2000-2500rpm and with the air cleaner removed, spray the water directly into the carb as a mist...it will want to die out which is normal...keep spraying until it almost stalls out, then stop spraying until the rpm's are back up...repeat this procedure 4-5 times...and then let it idle for a few minutes...you will be amazed on how much smoother your engine will run...and it doesn't cost a dime!

What the water will do is heat up to the point past super heated steam...this will loosen and remove most carbon build up...it's like a top end steam cleaner.

Dave 8)
Click to expand...

Falcon Ranch,

Thanks for this info.

Is it OK for me to do this process with the New Carburetor or is there a chance it might mess up its performance ?

Thanks.
 
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