200ci 1976 block in 1966 mustang

S

Sixty_Six_Stang

New member
Hello I'm in the middle of an engine rebuild and I ran into a problem while assembling it.

I was originally planning on using the original 1966 200ci block but the machine shop said the amount of money that it would need in machining would not be worth it (needed almost every cylinder re-sleeved). So I went down to my local pick-a-part and pulled a 200ci block out of 1976 Maverick because I thought that it was the exact same block as my 1966. After having it bored .040 over it was good to go. When I got it on the engine stand I noticed that the oil pan, water pump, and timing cover wont fit. The number on the block is D8DE 6015-DA if that helps.

So now I'm not sure what to do, I already have my pistons and rods, crankshaft all ready to go but I'm not sure how to proceed. Will the block fit in my engine bay and mate to my transmission since I noticed that block has bigger transmission mount bolts. Will the rotating assembly be OK? Can I make this work by getting a 1976 oil pan, water pump, and timing cover, or do I need to bite the bullet and get a 1966 block and get it bored .040 over to match my pistons?

Thank you in advance for any help.
 
Generally, the oil pan, timing cover, and water pump should fit from one 200 to another.
A 200 oil pan, timing cover, and water pump won't fit on a 250.

D8 is a 1978 casting number in a 1976 Maverick, can't be the original engine.
Does the block have a low mount starter (starter mounts below the pan gasket)?

High mount starter, 200 engine.
Low mount starter, 250 engine.

Set the block you just machined on a flat surface, head surface up, oil pan side down (without the main caps installed).
Take a ruler and stick in in one of the cylinders, then take a measurement from the flat surface to the head surface.
You will be measuring what is called the "deck height". The 200 block measures 7.808", the 250 block will measure around 9.48".

I have to agree with 65-coupe, you probably have a 250 block.

When you pulled the block, did you also take the crank, oil pan, and rods?
If you have a 250 block, these are the main items you would need to upgrade to a 250 engine.
These items plus a SBF bellhousing and "zero balance" flywheel.

Let us know what you find out.
 
OK, that was unforseen

Well, I hope its not the dudes that built your last 200 engine.

The good thing is the 250 is an easy fitment, and at the 410 pounds before accessories verses the 365 to 385 pound of the 200, it'll lower your car, the front won't be too high with it.


It will push the stock carb up 1-661 to 1.666 higher, the water pump goes up about 5/16" if you are able to get the engine down to the 200 level. The fans are around 16", and sometimes hit the top of the radiator fan protector. In fact, fan clashes are common, so you have to go to a smaller diameter fan to take as little as 5/16 or as much as 1-5/16" off the fan, wgich may force you to a fan diameter 2-3/8" less than what you have now.

I've found that there is normally a way to go to another 15-inch Race Fan type on my tall deck 250's if your stuck. Rock Auto's Hayden type 3567 and 3610 are good on 200's, but often a little big on a 250.

Frequently, you have to do some trial fitting to get the engine right down on the front sway bar and close to the drag link, but if you do that, it can be made to fit the hight restrictions of the hood. The upper hose is another size bigger, you can use the 200 item at a pinch, but the 250 upper hose from 69 to 78 on the Mustangs and Mavericks might not work unless you have the bigger diameter water outlet.

The 250 balancer comes out closer to the radiator, so the radiator then becomes a problem. There are also different water pump outlets which Ford used, so the lower radiator hose might not interchange. Gates or whatever make universal fit hoses, but you'll get there. A bigger radiator isn't important unless you run into problems with the hose sizes.


This is all unplanned, but if you need to , your transmission option is any truck, passanger C4, C5, AOD or manual Toploader, RUC, SROD or T5 gearbox

There's a need now for
1.the 250 sump,
2.maybee its gearbox (but there are options with that at a risk),
neutral balance flexplate (there are options here, same as the early small 157 teeth 240/300 automatic, or you can go the bigger truck c4 bellhousing and 164 teeth)
3.250 exhaust is better, but its optional to use it or your old uncracked 200 iron item
4.250 crank, rod caps and thrust bearing
5.250 5.88" rods (your 4.715" 200 rods won't fit),
6.250 harmonic balancer
7.250 carb (although you do have many options here)
8.250 alternator,
9.250 water pump,
10.250 ancillary drive brackets, (which may swap the alternator to the left side)

* If you've currently ended up with an early generator, or power steering, then its time to go to the 250 alt, Fridgadaire a/c and power steering brackets, and don't use the factory air pump, if it came with one.

11. Optional is 250 Ignition (needs to be the 69-74 250, or any later modle 74 on Duraspark). If using the existing carb, and igntion, thats not idela, but based on the downsized carbs some later 250's used, you can tailor it to suit. There was never a 250 carb/igntion set up like the pre 1968 200 engine.

*If using the exsting Carb with later 250 ignition, it needs be free of its Loadamatic system plumbing,


*I personally would use the 250 carb and later modle head so your compression ratio won't be over 9.2:1, but you can make the closed chamber 200 head you have work with a latter modle carb if you slot the carb body to suit, and rat hole file a 1-11/16 45 degree chamber to make the existing 1-5/16" hole dovetail with the larger 250 carb.

* you now have the option of asking them to deck the 9.469" block 90 thou to 9.379" (the Australian 250 block deck height actually) which will improve the compression ratio. You can get some new Classic Inlines shorter pushrods.

13. The 250 oil pump and pickup is different, the engine mounts bolt up, but it puts the engine up a little too high, but there are ways around this.

powerband and others here have some 250 to 200 engine mount suggestions to suit your requirments. Jack Collins used some Maverick engine mounts I think.

*You might be able to use the existing trans cross member.


*The bellhousing on your existing transmission can be changed, but your better off getting a later 26 spline trans and a drive shaft with combination universals to suit your existing axle.
 
Sixty-Six-Stang,

Where on the west coast are you? I'm up in the Seattle area and have a rebuildable 65 200 block that is standard bore, if you are close enough maybe we could work out a 250 for 200 swap? As others, I'm assuming you have a 250.

Scott
 
mustang6":v9alwx7j said:
Sixty-Six-Stang,

Where on the west coast are you? I'm up in the Seattle area and have a rebuildable 65 200 block that is standard bore, if you are close enough maybe we could work out a 250 for 200 swap? As others, I'm assuming you have a 250.

Scott
Click to expand...

Sixty_Six_Stang":v9alwx7j said:
........When I got it on the engine stand I noticed that the oil pan, water pump, and timing cover wont fit. The number on the block is D8DE 6015-DA if that helps........
Click to expand...
:nod: :nod:

Sounds like a good offer.


I'd assure you Triple S has the 250.

Despite the internals rework from 1960 to 1964.5 when the litte 144 and 170 suddenly could become a 200 seven bearing engine, Ford really didn't change anything major block architecture-wise from 1963 to 1983,

The 3 bolt water pump on the Mavs might have been the long nose item, but the sump and bellhousing not fitting caps it off to be a US 250. On a 76 Maverick/Comete , when 200 equiped, its 200 sump will fit a 66 Mustang, although it may have been hooked up to a 3.03 trans, everything is there to hook up to a 66. Even a 1978 to 1981 high mount block will have D8 on it, and it'll still fit the earlier stuff. My 81 3.3 does, even has the boss for the non Fox dip stick.
 
Hey everyone thank you for your input, this has all been a big surprise for me since I was planning on driving the 'stang around town by this weekend haha.
xctasy":14dgnfno said:
OK, that was unforseen

Well, I hope its not the dudes that built your last 200 engine.
Click to expand...
Nope, these guys are the real deal, all the hot rodders in my area all recommend them. They get most of their business from building race motors for various teams, they build motors for us mere mortals for side business. Just a bunch of really good guys who love what they do.

I think I will opt for finding another 200ci block since I will need new internals, trans, seals, etc etc...... I already put in many hours repainting my old parts and head and they look pretty spiffy. Luckily my buddy who is also a Ford inline enthusiast has a fresh 200ci block that he is willing to give me but unfortunately he believes it is already 0.060 over, I will confirm that this weekend with my calipers.

mustang6":14dgnfno said:
Sixty-Six-Stang,

Where on the west coast are you? I'm up in the Seattle area and have a rebuildable 65 200 block that is standard bore, if you are close enough maybe we could work out a 250 for 200 swap? As others, I'm assuming you have a 250.

Scott
Click to expand...
I would love to take you up on that offer, but I live in southern California about an hour west of LA.

I still haven't had a chance to 100% confirm that it is a 250 block since I've been really busy with work and school but I'll measure the deck height tomorrow.
 
dont bother measuring the deck height, just check the water pump mounting pattern. if it is three bolt, then its a 200, if four bolts then it is a 250, its that simple.
 
Sorry for the late reply, been pretty busy.

Well, I have a 250 block so that's a bummer. As I mentioned before my buddy has a 200ci block that is bored .060 over and he is willing to give it too me. I'm worried about overheating and any other issues that being .060 over might potentially cause. Should I take him up on his offer?
 
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