200 build ? going to need some help

R

Ron R

Well-known member
Alright, I (ok my wife) has a clean little 63 Flacon vert. The motor is all but dead. I picked up a 1974 maverick as a donor and pulled its200/c4 and would like to have a nice driver, with a little more performance.
I just got my hand book and am a little over whelmed. All I want is a clean little runner with a little more hp than what they came with. What all should I do to this little sucker? I was thinking of going with roller rockers/stock head rebuilt/header/some kind of carb, and a mild cam and having everything balanced. What pistons should I go with? What kind of C/R should I run?
What carb? What cam? What header?
I would like to have a clean/smoooooth/reliable/ problem free little runner for the wife.
What have you built and what did you use?
Thanks
Ron R.
 
Not to put too blunt a point on it, but if the motor and transmission work, shove them in and drive it. Let the car tell you what it wants, or you might just love a motor in better condition. And while enjoying the newer (larger) motor stick around and do some reading, over time you will formulate a plan of attack. If I were you I'd also consider the front suspension and rear axle from that Maverick as potential swaps onto the 'vert.

-ron
 
The 200 has a blown head gasket. I am pulling the stock motor out of the Falcon and detailing the compartment. Then starting on the 200.
I have already rebuilt the stock suspension and am keeping the stock rear end. I would like to have it look stock when you open the hood....
ex for the header.
 
Hello Ron and welcome to our dysfunctional family :lol:

Getting the handbook is a very good start. As for the engine build.

For a nice driver I would balance the lower end (although not necessary)
Stock pistons are fine. Deck the block and CC the head.
I would order a dual chain timing gear set from classic inlines. As for cams that is a tough one. I have a dual pattern 268/274 the only thing I don't like about it is it has very low vacuum at idle. So since you are running an auto trans I would go with something in the 264 range. I would also go with the Pacemaker header and spend the extra money to have it jet coated.

Two other items that I feel I got the best bang for the buck have been updating the distributor and carburetor.
I went with a Mallory dual point and a Mallory High Fire ignition. More of an old school look. My second choice would be the Distributor that Mike sells at Classic Inlines.
For the Carburetor I went with a 350 cfm Holley two barrel. It took a little tuning with jets and power valves but what an improvement.

And in case you haven't found it yet here is the best place to buy pretty much everything you will need.

http://classicinlines.com/

Gary
 
Howdy Ron:

It sounds like you're committed to a rebuild. The first step is to assess what you have. By the way, what engine are you replacing in the '63 Falcon? Try to keep all motor/transmission mounts from both the old and the new engine/trans.

A 200/C4 from a '74 maverick will be a nice upgrade.

Start by disassembling. Examining as you go. Begin shopping for a local machinist who will work with you.

A good goal CR for your "clean little runner with a little more hp" at Seattle elevation is 8.7:1 to 9:1. Stock type, dished pistons in the smallest overbore necessary will be fine given your goal. With an auto trans, a cam with good vacuum characteristics is necessary- something in the 260 and less range. Stock rockers are fine, adjustible are nice, rollers are cool, but overkill in your situation.

On the stock head, specify at least a three angle valve job, back cuts on the intakes, install a port divider, mill to CR goal. A stock '74 head is rated @ 8:1 with a 62 cc chamber volume. That will need to be reduced by .050" to get back to 52 ccs. you will need to mill an additional .025" to compensate for the thicker new head gasket too.

The stock one barrel carbs can be upgraded to larger stock type suing your stock linkage and air cleaner, or you can plan for a two barrel by modifying the stock log, adapting linkage, fuel lines and air cleaner. Each way has it's advantages and burdens. The same is true for exhaust. What ever header you get, strongly consider some sort of coating, given the Seattle rust factor.

You said, "I would like to have a clean/smoooooth/reliable/ problem free little runner for the wife." Don't let your "tinker" passion sneak up on you and overwhelm the project. In these cases, less is usually more.

A complete engine balance and new seals in the trans are really good ideas.

You said that you have the Handbook and you are here. Read, REAd, READ!!! Put your time and money into a good basic rebuild, stick to the plan and don't look back.

And, most of all, keep us posted on your progress and bumps along the way.

Adios, David
 
8) since this engine is going in the wifes car, it must be DEPENDABLE(heaven for bid she breaks down somewhere, cause she will blame you). as david said, make sure the short block is solidly built. select a cam that works in the 1000-4500 rpm range. you dont need a lot of duration, but you do want a decent amount of lift and lobe center angles of around 110-112 degrees. this will give you a cam that makes decent power and still has a smooth idle.

as for the head, in addition to what daivd said, i would also step up the valve sizes to 1.75in/1.50ex. you might also have the guy who installs the port divider also port the exhaust side on the head for a bit more power. for the exhaust, a header would be best, but a ported stock manifold will also do fine.
 
I'll second the point about the roller rockers. The amount of money spent on that would go much farther when put towards, say, machining the head, or suspension/steering, etc.
And if it's a daily driver for your spouse I think the 1bbl carb that's on it would probably suffice, unless it requires replacement.
Depends on your budget :!: :wink: :D
That whole carb swap thing is, IMHO getting into the realm of serious tinkering. I have a couple of carbs and all the parts for some swaps, but my car is a daily driver...no time to muck around with it.
 
The port divider is supposed to make th 3-4 single port divided into 2 seperate ones thus improving flow and performance. I have the pacemaker hears without it and they work just fine. Some people say the divider does work others dont see a difference. Usually people leave it out because if they arent solidly welded in the come loose and rattle your teeth out. In the end its your call.
 
CZLN6":plj0kgb9 said:
Howdy Ron:

It sounds like you're committed to a rebuild. The first step is to assess what you have. By the way, what engine are you replacing in the '63 Falcon? Try to keep all motor/transmission mounts from both the old and the new engine/trans.

A 200/C4 from a '74 maverick will be a nice upgrade.

Start by disassembling. Examining as you go. Begin shopping for a local machinist who will work with you.

A good goal CR for your "clean little runner with a little more hp" at Seattle elevation is 8.7:1 to 9:1. Stock type, dished pistons in the smallest overbore necessary will be fine given your goal. With an auto trans, a cam with good vacuum characteristics is necessary- something in the 260 and less range. Stock rockers are fine, adjustible are nice, rollers are cool, but overkill in your situation.

On the stock head, specify at least a three angle valve job, back cuts on the intakes, install a port divider, mill to CR goal. A stock '74 head is rated @ 8:1 with a 62 cc chamber volume. That will need to be reduced by .050" to get back to 52 ccs. you will need to mill an additional .025" to compensate for the thicker new head gasket too.

The stock one barrel carbs can be upgraded to larger stock type suing your stock linkage and air cleaner, or you can plan for a two barrel by modifying the stock log, adapting linkage, fuel lines and air cleaner. Each way has it's advantages and burdens. The same is true for exhaust. What ever header you get, strongly consider some sort of coating, given the Seattle rust factor.

You said, "I would like to have a clean/smoooooth/reliable/ problem free little runner for the wife." Don't let your "tinker" passion sneak up on you and overwhelm the project. In these cases, less is usually more.

A complete engine balance and new seals in the trans are really good ideas.

You said that you have the Handbook and you are here. Read, REAd, READ!!! Put your time and money into a good basic rebuild, stick to the plan and don't look back.

And, most of all, keep us posted on your progress and bumps along the way.

Adios, David
Click to expand...

Thanks !
I have found a machine shop, All he does is Ford stuff. Also on the Transmission, I am sending it in for a rebuild, should I keep the stock tork converter or get a new one? If I get a new one, what stall speed should I get?
Thanks for the tip on keeping all of the motor mounts, I did. I also kept the power brake booster, not shure if I can make it fit but it would be a huge upgrade over the single thats in there.

Also on the head thing, your saying .050 total? .025 to bump the CR up and the other .25 for the new gasket?
Thanks everyone.
 
Add .050 PLUS .025 to get to the CR you need. The .050 is to reduce combustion chamber vol, the .025 is to make up for the thicker head gasket sold nowadays. You might also want to deck the block if it's going to be out anyway. Standard decking is .025, but you should check the piston height and see how far below the deck height they sit. You can do that with a feeler gauge or dial indicator.
 
:) Hi RonR.I would go with a NEW torque converter.Reason:most rebuilders WON`T guarentee their work using the old one.
Reason:There could be contaminents left in the old TC that could damage the newly rebuilt tranny.
Leo
 
:D Hi RonR.Stall figures would be in someone elses realm who is more familiar with our sixes than I.
(edit)Ok,looks like you will doing a stock OR CLOSE to stock rebuild.
PERSONALLY,I would go with a good,stock heavy duty(if there is such a thing) torque converter for your vehicle.
This speculation,so take it with a LARGE grain of salt.
Leo
 
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