200 in a 55F100

[Vin Man]

Hi Gang.

I picked up a 55 F100 this past week. I want to take the 6 cylinder that I pulled from my 67 Mustang and drop it into the 55 F100. However, the 55 is set up for a front motor mount as opposed to one that grabs the engine from the sides.

I have found vendors that sell cross members that bolt to the F100 frame and have the motor mounts for all different size V8, but have not found one for the inline.

Anyone have experience with this kind of project? What did you do to get your 200 L6 into the 53-56 F100?

 

[Asa]

You'd have to look at a cross-member and see what you'd have to do.

You might have some luck finding the cross-member for a V8 and an I6 for an 80-ish Mustang and by comparing between them you might be able to see what you'd have to do to change the cross-member that a vendor would sell you

 

[xctasy]

Use the stock aftermarket SBF Ford or Chev 350 frame cross member, and move the mount horns forward with a set of stock 66-96 F100/F150 engine mounts, same as Fox i6 mounts.

As Asa said, the key to unlocking I6 aspirations for a 55 F100 is looking at the i6 vs v8 Fox body to frame mounting points.

All Ford did was extend the frame mounts forward with the 78 to 83 I6 foxes, as the i6 couldn't sit back like a 2.8, 4.2/5.0 or 3.8 V6 could. The horns of the frame are cantilevered out forward. With the 55 being tall and updright, the amount of forward frame mount movement to accomodate a shallow 200 could be significantly less and could allow the i6 to sit back as much as a SBF or Chev 350 swap in your case.

Anytime a Fox body owner does the standard 5.0 from 3.3 swap using the stock i6 memeber, they cut back the frame horns with a grinder and use the stock Fox 3.3/F150 motor mounts. So you just need to work in reverse and make up 'flitch' plates on both sides to form engine mount up and forward like the ones this owner cut off in fitting his Five Oh.

See http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_ima ... _large.jpg
on http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3863084/1 ... d-fairmont.

Your then free to use any sump which will clear the cross member.

 

[CoupeBoy]

Somewhere on here Fordman75 stated the an FE conversion brace works perfectly with a 240/300. Maybe it works with a small six too?

 

[Vin Man]

Thanks so far and keep it coming. I am not comfortable attempting to "fab" something. Would prefer to buy and bolt in and go. If fab needed will have to get some of you smarter people over to my garage.

 

[82F100]

Vin-Man, what about the mounting arms for the small six in the Mavericks? they are bolted to the frame then exten out to the mounts .

 

[chad]

Vin-Man, what about the mounting arms for the small six in the Mavericks? they are bolted to the frame then exten out to the mounts .

Any pic? Ideal (of course): another empty engine bay w/the arms/mounts (& towers? is arms the same as towers?) showing prominently.
8)

 

[CoupeBoy]

Interesting timing on this one. I also have a '54 F100 that has been in "storage" since about '92. The other day my wife and I were talking about what I should build for my next hobby project. I am still leaning toward the '65 F100 (reg cab/short step side) but if I dig out the '54 I will have to do something about the motor situation. It was originally a 239 (y-block) with 3 on the tree. When I bought it, it had a 223 which was locked solid. The previous owner had welded a 1/4" flat plate to the front of the frame horns to give that U-shaped front mount something to mount to. It looks like hell and needs to be replaced.

Now that I think about it, for a while there used to be an aftermarket Belly Bar for Falcons that had the correct spacing/bolt pattern for the width of a 170/200 that could have easily been suitable for this job, it would have required a little additional support, but it would have been an excellent starting point.

 

[Vin Man]

Interesting timing on this one. I also have a '54 F100 that has been in "storage" since about '92. The other day my wife and I were talking about what I should build for my next hobby project. I am still leaning toward the '65 F100 (reg cab/short step side) but if I dig out the '54 I will have to do something about the motor situation. It was originally a 239 (y-block) with 3 on the tree. When I bought it, it had a 223 which was locked solid. The previous owner had welded a 1/4" flat plate to the front of the frame horns to give that U-shaped front mount something to mount to. It looks like heck and needs to be replaced.

Now that I think about it, for a while there used to be an aftermarket Belly Bar for Falcons that had the correct spacing/bolt pattern for the width of a 170/200 that could have easily been suitable for this job, it would have required a little additional support, but it would have been an excellent starting point.

The Y block has the front mount which makes for easy installation with original setup. If I was going to go V8 route, I would do 289 just because of pricing and availability.

But I really want to put in my inline. Right now, I'm leaning towards buying the 289 cross member, and then seeing how to best modify it to accept the motor mounts that were in the Mustang.

 

[CoupeBoy]

Or take a peak at this
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon- ... 8p1151.htm

It bolts right up to the 'frame' motor mount bolt holes in a Falcon. Which I measured a few years back and IIRC the "angled" holes in this bracket became the defacto holes that the later mounts used. You should be able to use this brace ($61) and add a couple short ears to it, then bolt it into the frame.

Oddly I have NO pictures of my '54... I parked it inside a barn on concrete in about '92 or '93 and it hasn't moved in many years. I thought about putting in another yblock (272) to use with the factory 3 on the tree, but I really have no experience or parts availability for those motors.

Without going into too much detail, what do you have planned for the suspension?

 

[Vin Man]

Or take a peak at this
http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon- ... 8p1151.htm

It bolts right up to the 'frame' motor mount bolt holes in a Falcon. Which I measured a few years back and IIRC the "angled" holes in this bracket became the defacto holes that the later mounts used. You should be able to use this brace ($61) and add a couple short ears to it, then bolt it into the frame.

Oddly I have NO pictures of my '54... I parked it inside a barn on concrete in about '92 or '93 and it hasn't moved in many years. I thought about putting in another yblock (272) to use with the factory 3 on the tree, but I really have no experience or parts availability for those motors.

Without going into too much detail, what do you have planned for the suspension?

I'm completely ignorant when it comes to fab work so "add a couple of short ears to it" doesn't mean much to me. Looking at that picture, I can see how it could potentially bolt to the F100 frame, but I don't see where the motor mounts would connect to it.

I don't have a long term plan yet for the truck. Right now, I want to get my engine and transmission in it, redo the brakes, and drive it. Once I can do that, I will decide if I am going restomod or restoration. If I do restoration, I have the original 6 cylinder engine that was in the truck as well as the original 3 speed transmission.

I would like to have a blend between old lines of the vehicle and more modern powertrain and suspension options so restomod is the likely outcome. However, I don't have any specific ideas on suspension, axles, braking, etc. at this time.

 

[CoupeBoy]

Using my most excellent graphic design skills :roll:

When this brace is installed in a Falcon the plates with the orange lines run to that are labeled 'motor mount' are verticle. The lower half marked 'bottom' is as one would expect the bottom. If you were to go crawl under your Mustang and look at the factory belly bar you would see a 1.25" round tube, on a Mustang it is bolted through the bottom of the unibody structure. Since the early cars do not have a provision for this type of bar, all of the aftermarket ones I have seen utilize the motor mount holes. But the bent tube is always at the bottom, just like your current Mustang one.

clear as mud?

Also.. on another thread there is another member starting an old F100 project
Starting engine build! Please help me along!

 

[MPGmustang]

or you could have a mustang II front end put in with rack and pinion for steering. that would have the same mounting points to easily convert to i6 and you get rid of that horrible steering...

Just food for thought....

 

[Vin Man]

or you could have a mustang II front end put in with rack and pinion for steering. that would have the same mounting points to easily convert to i6 and you get rid of that horrible steering...

Just food for thought....

Good thought. Where could I find a Mustang II front end? The aftermarket new ones are well over $1000. Junk yards are pretty much picked over.

Anyone got one lying around? Got a spare 9 inch rear end as well?

 

[CoupeBoy]

There are 3. Mustang II's and a Pinto at my Dad's house...9"ers grow on trees in these parts too. Car or truck, your choice.

 

[chad]

Good thought. Where could I find a Mustang II front end? The aftermarket new ones are well over $1000. Junk yards are pretty much picked over.

Anyone got one lying around? Got a spare 9 inch rear end as well? [/quote]

1970 bronk 9 inch but 3/4 way acc. the country (MA). Axles, drum breaks, no chunk.

 

[Vin Man]

Good thought. Where could I find a Mustang II front end? The aftermarket new ones are well over $1000. Junk yards are pretty much picked over.

Anyone got one lying around? Got a spare 9 inch rear end as well?

1970 bronk 9 inch but 3/4 way acc. the country (MA). Axles, drum breaks, no chunk.[/quote]

Thanks for the thought!

I found a 9 inch locally for $120 on craigslist. Does anyone know the width I need for the 55? The one on CL came from a late 60s to early 70s F100.

Mustang II front end - i have a line on a complete Mustang II car for parts. Wish me luck.

 

[CoupeBoy]

My .02.. FWIW..
You proclaim to not be a good welder or know much about fabrication. Buying a Mustang II, just to pilfer its front suspension is going to be 'an adventure'

I have not used, but I have been thinking about using parts/kit from these guys
Paul Horton Welder Series Mustang II Pricing for the crossmember alone looks to be $200-240. You weld it into the shape of a crossmember AND you weld it into your own frame. Your choice of coil springs or coil over shocks.

Another problem with Mustang II suspension components is going to be their bolt pattern. 4 on 4.25, ford cars are 5 on 4.25 and trucks are 4 on 5.5. There are companies that will gladly sell you rotors with the correct wheel pattern for your needs.

Regarding the rearend
Jalopy Journal (HAMB) -- 1955 F-100 Rear Axle Swap (Fitment) Help
They have a lot of options listed, but these should get you close to something usable..

My research points to about a 66.75" hub-to-hub measurement

'57-72 F100 9" is a direct fit, minor bolting issues, such as shock mounting.

'73 on up are a bit too wide.

Explorer fits, but the pads are on the opposite sides, and are spaced about 1/4" off from the F100's stock width. (wheel bolt pattern different obviously, too)

I personally have been getting interested in the Crown Victoria swap like this one.
72 F100 project, longbed to short conv, CV swap, 20s the Crown Victoria swap starts on page 2. Also if you check the link I posted on this thread "Starting engine build" that forum member used a Crown Victoria crossmember but narrowed it to fit the older truck frame.

 

[bubba22349]

If you plan to keep the wide 5 truck bolt pattern the 1957 to 60 F100 9 inch will be a bolt in. If you are going with a Mustang II and changing to the car 5 by 4.5 than the 1957 to 59 car 9 inch will be a good fit also 67-70 Mustang and Cougar 9 inch will also be very close in width.

 

[Vin Man]

Looks like I'm going to keep the stock front and rear suspension/axles for now.