All Small Six 200 inline 6 Camshaft

[B’s Stang]

Hey everybody, I have been looking though the threads here on this site and I can’t seem to find a straight answer about what camshaft, lifter, and springs to use on my 1968 mustang with an inline 6. I want a cruiser that can take anything the road and highway can throw at it. I am going to stick with stock head, but new headers and exhaust, a 2bbl sniper efi carb, maybe new silvolite pistons, electric ignition, rockers and springs. I want to know which cam or cam kit will have the best fit with my engine, I want a little performance but have good gas per miles, but I do not want to adjust or machine my head down. Additionally do they make a double timing chain and gear set for this engine and would it be necessary. It would be great to get some straight answers thanks.

 

[vssman]

There’s a good tech section that details cam selection. It’s older data but should point you in the right direction. Yes, I’d get an adjustable double row timing chain if you’re replacing the cam. If the head has never been off, you’ll have to mill the head to compensate for the new thicker head gaskets as soon as you take the head off. You mention new pistons so the head is coming off. I’d increase the compression ratio for better performance and get more out of the cam. DSII or HEI ignition - your choice as they both are good. Good luck with the build.

 

[Frank]

The Sniper 1100 1 barrel will be cheaper and much less aggravation in the long run and-unless you really cam it or plan on high rpm- will deliver equal performance in the normal operating band. Probably better mileage and fuel distribution also. The 2300 will not be fully used on a 200 engine until 11,800 rpm. At 5000 rpm full throttle a 2300 will be just over 40% of its capacity, not counting the restriction of the log intake.
Mods to use Sniper 1100- none.
Mods to use Sniper 2300- 4 barrel air filter housing, intake mods, adapters, throttle linkage.
The log intake can not breathe anywhere close to what the 2300 can deliver. The 1100 is more CFM than the carb, so it is a power upgrade.

Just my input, for FYI purposes only.

 

[DON]

Don’t by springs till you get the cam sorted- they need to match. I would search online for someone to resurface your original lifters. There can be quality issues with new ones.
There are double roller chains for the 200. That will give you cam timing abilities. You don’t have to, but it is an improvement over stock. As stated, if you are doing the bottom end, do your head as well. Valve job, and a little milling. Frank know his carb stuff.

 

[B’s Stang]

Hey thanks guys for the clear up about the carb or efi question, I will definitely go with the 1100 efi then. I will check out the tech section for my cam question. Do you guys prefer comp cam, Schneider, Howard, I want the best for my engine.

Is there a way around having the head machined down or is that needed.

 

[vssman]

Only way I know of avoiding milling the head is to find a NOS steel shim head gasket. Milling the head isn’t a big issue. What is your aversion to it?
I’ll let others chime in on cam preference as mine was custom ground by my engine builder.

 

[B’s Stang]

Only way I know of avoiding milling the head is to find a NOS steel shim head gasket. Milling the head isn’t a big issue. What is your aversion to it?
I’ll let others chime in on cam preference as mine was custom ground by my engine builder.

How much would I have to mill the head. I think I saw somewhere it’s like .050? Is that correct and if not what is the correct measurement.

 

[B’s Stang]

Don’t by springs till you get the cam sorted- they need to match. I would search online for someone to resurface your original lifters. There can be quality issues with new ones.
There are double roller chains for the 200. That will give you cam timing abilities. You don’t have to, but it is an improvement over stock. As stated, if you are doing the bottom end, do your head as well. Valve job, and a little milling. Frank know his carb stuff.

What type of valve job would have to be done?

 

[B’s Stang]

Alright, I think I found the right specs for my cam but I wanted to check with you guys. Clay Smith makes a 264/264 or 264/274 cam with 112* degreeage with a lift of .441/.441 or .441/.450. I know I want a cam with 112* but would a 264/264 or 264/274 be better. I think 274 means exhaust duration and a longer exhaust duration would possible mean better air flow, but I feel keeping intake and exhaust duration even is the way to go (264/264). What do you guys think?

 

[vssman]

How much would I have to mill the head. I think I saw somewhere it’s like .050? Is that correct and if not what is the correct measurement.

That’s the ballpark for a new head gasket. But… If you’re doing the bottom end with new pistons, how much you take off depends. Are you using dished or flat tops? You really mill the head to target a desired compression ratio.

 

[drag-200stang]

What transmission? are you sure that your engine block and head is a 68. a lot can change in 57 years.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, when these engines were new, it was common to need a valve job after 100,000 miles. Valve seats and guide just wear out, and compression goes down. Many guys shoot for a 53 CC combustion chamber. Some heads have cracked under the 3 and 4 exhaust ports, so check that out before any machine work. It is easy to do a minor port cleanup as well. Vintageinline has the timing chain you want, with the adjustable crank sprocket. I would get a cam and lifter set, and see if the cam company sell or recommends the springs. You MUST degree the cam!!! Check out the tech section here, and learn more before you spend any money. Good luck

 

[B’s Stang]

Automatic transmission, I think a c4. And I am pretty sure that the engine matches the car considering that the car has everything that an inline 6 mustang would have, additionally the original owner was not a serious car guy so I doubt he would have swapped a six for a six or any kind of swap.

What transmission? are you sure that your engine block and head is a 68. a lot can change in 57 years.

 

[B’s Stang]

Hi, when these engines were new, it was common to need a valve job after 100,000 miles. Valve seats and guide just wear out, and compression goes down. Many guys shoot for a 53 CC combustion chamber. Some heads have cracked under the 3 and 4 exhaust ports, so check that out before any machine work. It is easy to do a minor port cleanup as well. Vintageinline has the timing chain you want, with the adjustable crank sprocket. I would get a cam and lifter set, and see if the cam company sell or recommends the springs. You MUST degree the cam!!! Check out the tech section here, and learn more before you spend any money. Good luck

Well the engine was rebuilt about 2-3 years ago and I think it is common for a valve job to be done but I am not 100% certain it was done. This brings me to the question of if I have to replace my pistons. If everything was redone not that long ago what should be done. It has had an overheating problem and an uneven idle for years and now the torque converter went out. I want to make this mustang reliable and I think the way to do it is definitely a new cam, the 1100 efi, electric starting, headers and exhaust. If I do not have to do pistons that would be great. Thus I would just have to do the head to continue with the cam right?

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I forgot to say that I would run a compression test. Also, you really don't know the history of most old cars, and the fact is, many cars have mixed and matched parts, rebuilt, exchange, or junkyard. The casting # on the head, and the on the block behind the starter will give you more information. Good luck

 

[vssman]

If the engine was rebuilt recently, the head may have been machined. Only way to know is to cc the heads.

 

[B’s Stang]

If the engine was rebuilt recently, the head may have been machined. Only way to know is to cc the heads.

What is the best way to cc the head?

 

[vssman]

One way: With the head off, you place a sheet of plexiglass with a hole drilled in it across the chamber. Then you measure how much transmission fluid it takes to fill the chamber with a syringe. There’s videos on YT on how to do it.

 

[alwill923]

I just installed a clay smith cam in my 200. I called schneider and isky and all they did is regrinds as they had no blanks. Schneider did a regrind for me and It was so far off from the cam card that I did not use it. Called schneider and gave them my opening and closing numbers at 50 and they admitted it was off. Very disappointed!

I called clay smith and asked them what grinds they had it stock. They gave me a list and I picked the one I wanted. I was very impressed in their inventory and their people I dealt with. I would definitely recommend them. FYI, I had previously purchased their stud kits.

I installed the double row timing chain with 9 options on the crank gear, good update. When degreeing the cam I first installed it dot to dot at 0 on the crank gear, way off. To solve the problem I had to go one tooth over and +6 on the crank gear. Took a while to get there. It finally came out perfect to match the cam card. This is why it is so important to degree the camshaft. Also you need the crank gear with 9 options.

FYI, I changed the cam timing by keeping the cam gear on and sliding the cam forward to get the crank gear off. PITA I did not have the rear cam plug installed so I could reach in the back to help guide the cam back in. (Engine was on an engine stand) I do not know what was off to cause this.

I definitely recommend clay smith cams and definitely degree the cam.

Had the same problem on my 240 with a solid roller. Had to go one tooth off and use offset keys to get it right. Another story. Details are in the "Truck Stop".

Get it right or you will never be happy.

 

[Frank]

Alright, I think I found the right specs for my cam but I wanted to check with you guys. Clay Smith makes a 264/264 or 264/274 cam with 112* degreeage with a lift of .441/.441 or .441/.450. I know I want a cam with 112* but would a 264/264 or 264/274 be better. I think 274 means exhaust duration and a longer exhaust duration would possible mean better air flow, but I feel keeping intake and exhaust duration even is the way to go (264/264). What do you guys think?

That's a nice cam but the most important stat for idle quality is the .050" duration number and LSA. Especially with an auto trans, you don't want too much valve overlap. Looking at C Smith website - are you looking at grind # H-264- 0-B? If not post the grind please.