Hey everyone, i'm new to 6s so I hope you can help me out. I just traded a boat for for a 66 Mustang and got 2 six's one is a 200 I think and the other is a 250. They are both supposed to run but my question is which one do I want to put money into and install in the car? Also are all the parts interchangable from one to the other? I plan on going through the engine that I install so it does'nt matter to me which one as long as one is not a peice of junk when i take them apart in that case I already have my answer. Thanks for any help you can give me.
66 Mustang
- Thread starter pk1959
- Start date
A 200 would have been the original standard engine and the most common since it was made the longest. The 250 came out later and was a taller deck version of the 200. The 250 having the extra 50 cubes is easy extra power if thats something you want. I believe there are some minor clearance issues to put one in a 66. Transmission mounts I think are also different.
Im sure someone that knows more about them will be along soon to give you more details.
Im sure someone that knows more about them will be along soon to give you more details.
8) both engines are good ones to use. the small ford six is a tough reliable engine that you practically need to use a nuclear warhead to kill one. as for which engine to use, that is always a tough question between the two. the 200 revs better than the 250, but the 250 puts out more torque. fuel economy would be about the same with either engine. the 200 fits better, but the 250 can be made to fit fairly easily. as for the trans mounts, as long as you are using transmissions of the day, the C4, 3.03, top loader 4spd, or even the 2.77 and dagenham 4spd, the transmission uses the same crossmember, you just get the mount that fits the trans. if you want to use an AOD then you need to use the 250. the T5 cxan be used with both transmissions, but you will need a crossmember to accommodate the later transmissions as the mount is further back on both transmissions.
personally i would use the 250 and a C4 combination in an early mustang as that gives you a good daily driver.
personally i would use the 250 and a C4 combination in an early mustang as that gives you a good daily driver.
Thanks rbohm, what about the hood clearance will that be a problem? Also I found out #1 cyl on the 250 is rusted pretty badly from water setting in it I guess, so if pitted will need to be bored, new pistons and a lot more money. I think i may just stick with the 200 since the car is already setup for it. My next question is what cam for the street and how about a 2V carb and adaptor. Any other inexpensive performance mods you can think of?
pk1959":3096vu05 said:
Talk to Mike with Classic Inlines; he can suggest a cam based on how you drive the Mustang. Mike also sells a 2V carb and adapter, and may now be offering a direct mount 2V conversion. Would be nice to support the guy who makes this forum possible.
pk1959":2f6b80pg said:
8) before you toss out the 250 just because the cylinders need boring, dont forget that the 200 may require cylinder boring as well. you need to check that before you decide on a block. if the cylinders are out of round or tapered excessively they also need to be bored. so i consider that a moot point. although as i indicated the 200 is a good choice either way.
as for a cam, you want to select a cam that works best in the rpm range you are planning on using the engine in about 80% of the time. since you want a daily driver, you are looking at the engine running in the 1000-5000 rpm range 80% of the time, and thus you want to select a cam that works in that rpm range. with classic inlines, you can also specify what lobe separation angle you desire, 108, 110, 112, 114 are the most common choices. which one you choose will depend on what compression ratio you want to use, and what grade of fuel you want to use. for instance, lets say that you want to run 10:1 compression, and use 89 octane fuel, or even 87 octane fuel. in this case you would select a cam with a 108 LSA as that would bleed off cylinder pressure at low speeds and thus avoid detonation. on the other hand if you want to run 87 octane with 9:1 compression, but you want more low end torque than 9:1 compression would give you, maybe because you live in a hilly area and need a little extra low end torque, you then select a 112 LSA cam to trick the engine into thinking it has more compression than it really does. in the two instances i listed you are dealing with dynamic compression rather than static compression. classicinlines has a tech article on static and dynamic compression that is a good read.
as for other performance parts, a 2v conversion using an autolite 2100 carb will give an increase in airflow, and the autolite is a simple and reliable carb for the street. i also recommend a decent header to replace the stock exhaust manifold. classicinlines also has a selection of headers available. if you have the money, pony up the cash and have them coated, other wise get the plane tube header and paint it with a good VHT paint, duplicolor puts out a good one.
Sounds like the head is off the 250; then go ahead and do a head swap onto the 200! The 250 head should have larger intake valves, more intake plenum volume and larger diameter carb hole. You will have to use a later carb (with out the SCV) for the larger carb hole, but that's OK you should do a DS-II or DUI swap anyway.
Be warned, the combustion chamber volume of the 250 head should be large and will lower the compression ratio (CR) too much if you just swap iit on. You'll need to measure the volume of the combustion chambers and have a machine shop mill the head down. So far I've played around with two 250 heads for my 200 and both needed 0.030 milled off the deck to get in the low 9-point-something to one range for the CR. And make sure you have the replacement head gasket on hand to measure too. The aftermarket ones are much thicker than the stock steel shim gaskets.
Be warned, the combustion chamber volume of the 250 head should be large and will lower the compression ratio (CR) too much if you just swap iit on. You'll need to measure the volume of the combustion chambers and have a machine shop mill the head down. So far I've played around with two 250 heads for my 200 and both needed 0.030 milled off the deck to get in the low 9-point-something to one range for the CR. And make sure you have the replacement head gasket on hand to measure too. The aftermarket ones are much thicker than the stock steel shim gaskets.
