can only speak for myself, but I´d check the rocker assembly while I´m at it.
unbolt the whole assembly and clean it with your preferred cleaner - gas, kerosene, brake cleaner, WD40.
check for wear on the shaft (though the shaft is made from surface hardened steel, the rockers are forged cast iron and will eat up the shaft once the first layer is gone).
check for pitting and wear on the rocker arm tips as well, and you might want to wiggle the rocker arms somewhat on the shaft to reassure yourself that "endplay ain´t gotten too big".
If you really want to dig into it, disassemble the whole assembly for even better cleaning and measuring.
With the shaft and rockers out of the way, you can catch a glimpse of your valvetips too. Clean, and check your pushrods for straightness and wear on its ends.
put everything back together (shaft mounts - also known as pedestals or stands- need 30-35 lb/ft) and set the valve lash.
If you´re somewhat mechanically inclined (or just plain crazy, or both) all that can be done in one afternoon.
you might want to check the valve cover bolt holes for flatness as well, as they get pulled out over time because bolts get tightened too much. the surface around the bolt holes needs to be flat to ensure good sealing.
The valve cover bolts don´t need a lot of torque - 3-5 lb/ft is enough. All they need to do is to compress the gasket just enough to prevent leaks. no shear forces, no tensile force, no high pressure, - just sealing.
hand tight is about right. if it leaks, give it half a turn more.
those triangular shaped washers from the Mr.Gasket-company help to spread the load on a greater surface, and prevent stripping the bolt holes