All Small Six Back in the Saddle

[cr_bobcat]

Hey folks! It's been a long time since I've been on here. Busy with life and all that good stuff. I managed to find a 250 block for $100. When I checked the cylinders it was still standard bore and could see the cross-hatching where someone rand a dingleball hone through it. It also has a brand new timing set of the early variety without the built-in timing retard. The plan is to supercharge it. I haven't decided on the unit yet but it'll either be a Paxton setup from Paradise Wheels or I'll build my own kit with a Rotrex C38. I've already got a serpentine balancer for it and confirmed fitment. I'm not going crazy with the boost - just enough to make it sporty. But...and there's always a "but"...I'm using this as a platform to tinker...

I got a sample set of roller lifters for a 460 with the removable links. I want to avoid windowing the block to be able to get the lifters/links installed. That said, I can't get them in the lifter galley as is. I have to get them all cockeyed to wiggle them in, so the link can't be attached while I do it. Has anyone done any creative grinding/milling around those gallies to know how much meat is there? It kind of looks like I should be able to make them fit but will require some clearancing. I want to know if this is feasible before I call and ask someone to grind me a cam.

Cheers!

 

[pmuller9]

On the 300 block one lifter is installed all the way down with the other lifter and tie bar starting all the way up and the open end of the tie bar is slipped into the lifter that is all the way down.
This is done without the cam in place.

I understand that you are working with a closed lifter gallery.
What part of the block is interfering with the tie bar?

 

[cr_bobcat]

There is some casting irregularities in the galley. I think if I grind away in there that I can make it work. There's a potential I might have to clearance the deck a little bit but that would be a last resort kind of thing. I'm also assuming that I'll need to clearance around the end of the links once they're in place but that's an assumption at this point. It's been too cold here in Iowa in my un-heated garage to play around much. I'm sure there are some "install the first one from the bottom up first kind of things I can try too.

 

[pmuller9]

Here is the link for the 300 block install.
We only have to clearance the two end bosses.

https://fordsix.com/threads/installing-hydraulic-roller-lifters-in-a-240-300-block.86793/post-711734

 

[Engine Fan]

Been curious about the roller cam lifters fitting. I took a picture of lifter galley in my 250. You can see the 2nd lifter hiding behind the vertical coolant boss. While it doesn’t look like much material would have to be removed from the coolant boss, I,m not sure how thick the casting is there.
This likely similar to what the Jeep guys have to do for roller fitment.

 

[cr_bobcat]

Ah, I see what you did there. Lopping the end off of the link makes that much easier. Since the cam only has maybe 0.300" lift, I shouldn't need to worry about the link becoming disengaged and the lifter turning.

 

[pmuller9]

Ah, I see what you did there. Lopping the end off of the link makes that much easier. Since the cam only has maybe 0.300" lift, I shouldn't need to worry about the link becoming disengaged and the lifter turning.

The lifters come with the open tie bar end on one side specifically for the Ford inline six.
They are sold by Straub Technologies.

 

[aussie7mains]

Few comments here. The rotrex is centrifugal and will give a low manifold pressure at low rpm, a positive displacement compressor gives higher pressure at any RPM, ive got a Sprintex twin screw on mine it gives boost from idle, this makes for great flexibility to drive. Roller lifters is way overkill for your engine, and will be VERY difficult to do, (the Argentines use a pinned design with a slotted lifter to stop rotation, this is about as simple as you get) stick with a good flat tappet hydraulic design, you dont need a big cam for a boosted application, i run 208dgrees at 0.050, this allows revs to 5000, plenty for road use. The rotrex has an 8 rib belt, I doubt the polyvee pulley you have will be 8 rib, 6 is more typical, the compressor will need the 8 rib design, this is what i run and I do get slippage. Ive got photos of mine around the forums if your keen. Im a big fan of positive displacement compressors because they give great low down torque, and that is where you really feel it.
There is a lot of other things to be considered when looking into a belt driven compressor, drives, Compression ratio, just mounting the thing, ignition, exhaust etc etc. They do make for 'sporty drive".

 

[pmuller9]

stick with a good flat tappet hydraulic design

That is the problem here in the states.
Available and reliable flat tappet cam and lifters are becoming nonexistent.

 

[aussie7mains]

That is the problem here in the states.
Available and reliable flat tappet cam and lifters are becoming nonexistent.

Crow in Australia list them:-https://crowcams.com.au/product-search?category_id=48
The 63002 might suit you.