Bosch RE55 and Alternator Woes

[Anonymous]

I am in the U.S., but I own a Australian Ford Falcon XA ('73), and I'm having a hell of a time with my alternator/regulator setup. When I first drove the car home, the "ALT' light on the dash pusated, but never went out.

Finally, a few weeks later, it went out completely. So, I had the alternator tested and rebuilt (I couldn't get the same Bosch unit here, but a rebuild just worked fine). I hooked it back up, but the ALT "dummy" light stayed on.

So, I had my brother-in-law air mail me a Bosch RE55 unit (since I couldn't find a replacement unit here, of course). I put that in... ALT still on. I had a place check out both the alternator and the two regulators--all fine.

Then, my service manuals showed up for my Falcon XA, and the diagrams do show a Bosch unit, two prong, that ground through the case.. However.. these units appeared to be electro-mechanical in nature--they weren't RE55s.. So.. maybe RE55s are solid state versions??? I digress.. Anyhow. I noticed that both of the RE55s that I have are painted a greyish color, and don't seem to really promote grounding on anything because of this. The car I now
own originally had a V8 in it, which used an alternator with a built-in regulator.

Ok, so I've had the idea of just scraping off some of the paint on the regulator and then grounding it myself (or ensuring that it's grounded)..but I'm a little hesitant since the paint is there in the first place. I can't get continuity on the shell until I scrape off some of the paint.

Also, there's still the aspect of my regulator working for a little while before it finally quit. Maybe a bit of unpainted case was making contact with some unpainted part of my car..but I can't be sure.

Do you happen to have any other ideas? Can someone down under confirm for me how and if the RE55 unit grounds at all?

Thank you, in advance.

 

[xctasy]

I had the same problem in my XE. There is an the Bosch unit, a bolt on regulator on the back on the alternator. Black, and stamped with a part number. About 45 bucks New Zealand.

I just replaced the regulator, and life was cool. The second thing to watch for is the earth to the engine. It must be very sound. Use copper coat, or add an extra ground somewhere. The third thing is the alternator winding itself may be shot. Ford went to Bosch units as they are easier to service. It has some internal bits which can go west, and if you check those first two items, then you may find this is the matter.

I think addo (Adam), was saying there was a swap over from Email, the Aussie company who used to build alternators for Ford and Chrysler Oz in the 60's to Bosch in the 70's. The 302 V8 had a low-rent six cylinder style alternator, the rip-snorting 351 had a heavy duty alternator which was designed for Police use. I am thinking regulator, but you may have one of three generic types of alternator there brother.

Hang in there. Backlash or Aussie 7 mains or addo may be able to help.

If you get stuck, and you've got a Cleveland or Big block in it, why not go to US componets?

 

[addo]

Just a simple point to clarify before we say any more - you seem to be inferring it (originally) had the separate box type regulator. The one that's about a 1 1/2" cube with two leads to it. Is that correct?

 

[Anonymous]

There's been three people that have suggested I go to American parts, and I think that's what I'm going to do..

Now, if I can figure out which of the D+ wires comes from the ignition, and which goes to the Dummy light...

 

[Anonymous]

Sorry for not being more clear--I have a 250 ci I-6 engine with a Bosch RE55, two pin regulator that bolts on to the firewall, and a separate Bosch 40A alternator.

 

[MustangSix]

I'm not sure what the source of your problem might be, but when I was first looking into using the bracketry that came with my crossflow engines, I checked out several Bosch alternators and came across the same unit being useed in 70's-80's Toyota Landcruisers here in the US.

Does it look like this?

That's the one for a 1979 - 1983 Toyota LandCruiser Engine-2F/4.2L FJ40 Should be available for around $50.

 

[addo]

It's very similar to the pic, and the GM alternators here had the same style two-pin reg box. Lead wires go straight from the alternator to the box and back again; any idiot lights are taken off elsewhere.

Not having opened up one (on the "if it ain't broke..." principle) I should say I believe they're adjustable, and meant to be calibrated. That may eliminate the problem. Is the alternator output correct?

Adam.

 

[MustangSix]

It wouldn't be that difficult to switch to a GM 12Si alternator or to a Ford 3G alternator.

All of them have basically the same wiring. There's an output, a field excitation input, and a sensing wire on all three.