All Small Six Carb questions

This relates to all small sixes
This air cleaner came from the 170 sitting in the garage. But it had no carb. I'm betting it had a holley 1904. Because there is no way to hook it to the autolite 1100. I also took a bunch of little parts from the 170. It may have been what he was running. And this 200 may have come from his part's car
May look for an earlier 1904 with the spark control built in. Idk round and round the snowball grows
 
Probably plugged with gunk. Idle didn't change when spraying it out with carb cleaner
 
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Yes that's the early style air cleaner 1960 to1963 for a Holley 1904. The Aoutolites started being used in 1964 with a different type air cleaner with a center wing nut to hold it on the 1100, I believe they also used a rubber sleeve on the carb's air horn as a spacer / insulateor. To me it looks like a filler putty was jammed into the SCV if you could soak it good in some Barymen's carb cleaner it will probably clean it out. I wouldn't be surprised if the SCV threads are still good under all the crud I have never ran into those threads being bad before but I guess there is always a possibility. If you convert to the DuraSpark II then even if those SCV threads are damaged you could use the Autolite 1100 by doing the Drop A Load Mod and then using a soft plug in the SCV hole to seal it off. Best of luck
 
Any distributor you purchase will need to be curved for you build.
You will need a full 12V's if you go with the HEI or DUI.
I like and use the DS11 with a MSD ignition box & a MSD Blaster 2 coil. MSD also makes a harness # 8069 that will plug right into the DS11 & the MSD Box.
The MSD Box is a 6425.
Check out my listings in the small six for sale section of the forum. Bill wsa111
 
The crud is still just dried mud.. i didn't clean itvery well.
I have a ford style electronic box. It is made by msd. But I can't find one on the net to show you. I need some measurements of the rods for the carb linkage. Driver's side,, the straight one between the pedal and the bellhousing. From the pictures it looks about 4 inches?
Right side is supposed to be adjustable. I haven't figured out how I'm going to accomplish that yet. But the one between the bellhousing connection and part the bolts to the carb base.
These shouldn't be hard to make.
 
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You might try to find a small bottle type wire brush to clean the mud out of the SCV hole. Can't be of much help to you on the right linkage shape and lenght but yes I have made some of those up to fit too. There are likely pictures of those linkage parts here on the site if you do some searching.
 
Yeah I seen what I need. They are just straight pieces with snap sockets on one end. I doubt that I'll be making the sockets but a 90 on each end should work.
Not real concerned about the carb yet. I'm betting my brother has a few sitting around. He wants to clean out. Theres a 200 sitting in a crate he keeps trying to give me. He said that it needs rebuilt but doesn't know what is wrong with it.
 
That’s great if you have access to some more carbs and parts. You should be able to get the threaded snap on sockets and bolt ball fittings at NAPA in their small parts section. Somewhere packed away I have some of their catalogs that showed all those parts. Edited
 
Its going to get confusing if a 2nd person starts to ask Qs. (jack a thread)
Follow along.
If it duz not fit 4 U a new thread would be cool...post away!

"...The LOL and SCV system is an old design, and the newer distributor is better..."
carb/diz feedback system:

Here's oneada best on-line guys. This particular vid (he told me he has over 1,000 on-line now) is in 3 prts so I did not watch to see it it is the SCV model. That prt is slaked on the outside (cover) amoung other sequences...
 
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My brother has a couple of these. They only have 1 accelerator pump. The one I have now has 2. I think I read somewhere that it doesn't matter. Definitely needs a good build by the looks of it
 

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Though it's dirty it also looks like a real nice carb core that should rebuild good. Check your throttle shaft for excessive looseness. Best of luck
 
The coolant going through the carb base plate is for quicker warmups and to better adamize the air fuel mixture. If it's usually hotter air temps in your area most of the time you can leave it unhooked or you can make a plastic carb spacer (out of a cutting board) to insulate the carb's base & fuel bowl from excessive heat. Some people hook them up for winter driving or use a manual heater control valve to shut off coolant to that spacer as well as the heater for summer use, and some remove the compleate water heated spacer. The valve on the side of the car your describing is called a spark control valve it controls the vacuum advance on a Load O Matic type Distribitor. Are you using one of those early LOM distributors (1960 to 1967)?

How The Older Load O Matic Distributor Vacuum Advance Works

There were some models of the Mustang six that never had the coolant line through the aluminum carb spacer. They were cast without the pipe nipples front and rear. I don't know the application for that variety. Curious though...
 
"... the application..."
later yrs
 
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