All Small Six Cold air intake
- Thread starter GBonifay
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
A good source might be : https://www.spectreperformance.com/cat/air-intake-components .
Plenty of ways to save money, using metal dryer vent or hose from another application. Only limited by your imagination !
Let us know what you did.
DannyG
Plenty of ways to save money, using metal dryer vent or hose from another application. Only limited by your imagination !
Let us know what you did.
DannyG
I’ll be doing something like this for the 200 in my 66 Mustang. I’ve got a 2V down draft Weber and I’m planning on using an OEM type air cleaner housing as my air box and then plumbing the cold air from a hole that I’ll cut in the radiator support. Everything on that side of the engine is relatively cool because the exhaust is on the other side. I think it will work well.
I’m also making a heat shield that goes between the header and the log out of a piece of home construction flashing. It’s galvanized steel and maybe 18 gauge or lighter. It needs to run 2” in length and extend 6”. I added a 7mm phenolic plate between the carb and engine as a thermal break and it makes a lot of difference in keeping the carb cool.
I’m also making a heat shield that goes between the header and the log out of a piece of home construction flashing. It’s galvanized steel and maybe 18 gauge or lighter. It needs to run 2” in length and extend 6”. I added a 7mm phenolic plate between the carb and engine as a thermal break and it makes a lot of difference in keeping the carb cool.
You could scout around picnpull. I want the same for my Bronco and would like to find parts from a later vehicle with the filter box mounted on the inner fender and cold air supply routed to the firewall, then oem hose/duct to the carb like a carb hat thingy. I wish I could find the picture of the guy who attached a closet flange to the fire wall for the cold air supply. Value engineering.
I installed a cold air intake on my 65 hardtop 200 inline a couple years ago.
Used Spectre parts, a piece of 3" carbon fiber tubing from Amazon, and a carb hat that Vintage Inlines used to sell but that part is out of stock at the moment.
Used Spectre parts, a piece of 3" carbon fiber tubing from Amazon, and a carb hat that Vintage Inlines used to sell but that part is out of stock at the moment.
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I seem to remember a post here that stated the carb hats are not aerodynamically efficient. I am thinking I am going to use the more efficient original style air filter with a snorkel and hook the cold air plumbing to it. Maybe increase the snorkel size too
Yes, I was thinking the original air cleaner would be a relatively simple way to get a good sized air box around the carb opening and the underside could be treated with the same kind of thermal insulation used on the bottom of motorcycle gas tanks to help keep the cold air from being heated up. @zukeeny1 is running the cold air intake exactly where I was planning to do mine. My voltage regulator is there at the moment but that’s not going to be necessary after converting to a modern alternator.
Nice looking engine bay! Is there an air filter in that larger part at the air intake/radiator support?
Are you contemplating a cold air intake for the engine in your early Econoline like in your avatar photo? If so, I'll be doing the same thing over the winter. Curious with what you come up with and where you route it.
Yes, there is a cone-shaped filter in the large canister. Like a K&N filter, it's washable and renewed with that red oil stuff.
I build a cold air intake with a 38/38 Weber and modified original aircleaner housing (for a 200) in my 68 Mustang.
Cut the a bit off the snorkel and made a 3D printed adapter for the air hose, the inlet in the radiator wall is a generic velocity stack from ebay.
Cut the a bit off the snorkel and made a 3D printed adapter for the air hose, the inlet in the radiator wall is a generic velocity stack from ebay.
So many questions!! This is what I intend to do on mine but I was planning to use the driver side to keep away from the heat from the header.
@clochard68 How effective is the heat shield you've got between the carb and the log? All of it looks fantastic!
@clochard68 How effective is the heat shield you've got between the carb and the log? All of it looks fantastic!
@DON yes, the black part is printed, but i currently don't use it because the dyno testing showed it robbed power at higher engine speed (my guess is because I covered the jet opening too much, I have to redesign it)
@awasson yes initially I also wanted to route it to the driver side. The hose would have been much longer and I wanted to keep that space in case I would install an AC.
The heat shield works very well, I also put some golden reflective tape on the underside of the heat shield and the snorkel.
@awasson yes initially I also wanted to route it to the driver side. The hose would have been much longer and I wanted to keep that space in case I would install an AC.
The heat shield works very well, I also put some golden reflective tape on the underside of the heat shield and the snorkel.
Yeah I like that a lot, good fabrication. Appreciate the pics.
@clochard68 Is the heat shield carbon fibre or is it something like a phenolic plate? I was planning to do a full length 2 foot by 6 inch sheet metal deflector and either mount it to the header studs or to the inner fender but that deflector you made looks so nice and clean, I may follow your approach.
Yes the heat shield is carbon fibre, but the only reason for that is that I had scrap material at work laying around.
The heat shield is bonded with my insulating spacer. In post #2 in this thread are more pictures of the combination: https://fordsix.com/threads/68-small-log-head-porting-including-final-dyno-results.82600/
I think a heat shield mounted to the header studs would also work very well, this was also my initial plan!
The heat shield is bonded with my insulating spacer. In post #2 in this thread are more pictures of the combination: https://fordsix.com/threads/68-small-log-head-porting-including-final-dyno-results.82600/
I think a heat shield mounted to the header studs would also work very well, this was also my initial plan!
off topic?
Bronco (not early yrs ’65 - 72/3/4) hada 'fresh air tube' & “core support hole”
for a “Cold Air” system like #11’s 1st pic. My ’70 does not.
I got Matt’s carb hat to match my similarly bought finned V/C.
I bought an oe Bronco ‘fresh air tube' that goes behind the battery.
I’m searchin Spectra for light turbo 3” tube to connect carb hat to f.a. tube.
Possibly same turbo style connectors/clamps (either the bolt or slip on silicone
style joiners).
I need 1). location of the core support hole (my ‘grill' is off so accessible), make a round
hole in f.a.tube for a connector. The oe is set up for the rectangle hose like oe in pic 1, #11
post above. 2). the 2, 3 ft hose (alu? plastic?) & 3). the 2 ‘connectors' (1@ front: fa tube/connecting
line; 1 @ that rigid line/carb hat). I cant/wont use the heater duct style accordion hose. #1: need rigidity.
Could work for non bronk too...
Both systems ('stang in #11 & ‘mine’) hassle with rectangle to round complications w/in each system. Finding
a work-a-round needs re-design of many off-the-shelf pre-made (& therefore sourcable) parts. Once again its:
“Welcome to the World of Customizing” an automobile. aahahahaa
Bronco (not early yrs ’65 - 72/3/4) hada 'fresh air tube' & “core support hole”
for a “Cold Air” system like #11’s 1st pic. My ’70 does not.
I got Matt’s carb hat to match my similarly bought finned V/C.
I bought an oe Bronco ‘fresh air tube' that goes behind the battery.
I’m searchin Spectra for light turbo 3” tube to connect carb hat to f.a. tube.
Possibly same turbo style connectors/clamps (either the bolt or slip on silicone
style joiners).
I need 1). location of the core support hole (my ‘grill' is off so accessible), make a round
hole in f.a.tube for a connector. The oe is set up for the rectangle hose like oe in pic 1, #11
post above. 2). the 2, 3 ft hose (alu? plastic?) & 3). the 2 ‘connectors' (1@ front: fa tube/connecting
line; 1 @ that rigid line/carb hat). I cant/wont use the heater duct style accordion hose. #1: need rigidity.
Could work for non bronk too...
Both systems ('stang in #11 & ‘mine’) hassle with rectangle to round complications w/in each system. Finding
a work-a-round needs re-design of many off-the-shelf pre-made (& therefore sourcable) parts. Once again its:
“Welcome to the World of Customizing” an automobile. aahahahaa
Last edited:
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