I have a 62 Fairlane w/ a 170. It stays cool for the most part but these ninety plus days in stop and go is killing it. I haven't put a thermometer to see what she's actually getting up to. But the gauge is definitely high. What's the ideal temp the engine can run at? What don't I want to go past? I only have a four blade fan, would a five blade make much of a difference? Also I was going to look into some water wetter or purple ice. Was there a shroud on these years?Not sure if these years run the sane size radiator as a mustang/falcon.
Cooling
- Thread starter Mooney
- Start date
The factory gauge at 1/2 way is 200 give or take 5 degrees , if it more than a needle over its getting worrisome , watter wetter helps ( use 2 ) but it only lasts for 4 months or so , a big help is your mix ratio , 70/30 is a good compromise ( 70% water , 30% antifreeze ) the more water the better up to 80/20 ,also use a 16lb cap and a recovery system , the factory cap will not draw coolant back , and the Factory design is just a puke hose ,also you want the Old Green antifreeze , DO NOT USE DEX COOL or an equivalent if it only gets hot a slow speeds its an airflow issue ( not enough ) use a 180 stat , if all those tips still have you Hot , its time for a Radiator replacement, all these tips are assuming the Belt is Tight and all the components are in good shape
8) mustangs and falcons use the same radiator for the most part. some mustangs use larger rads, usually the big block cars. i agree with most of what falcon said. the one thing we differ on is using a cooler thermostat to try and reduce engine temps. that only works of the system is designed to operate at a cooler temperature. for instance if the cooling system is designed to run at 180 degrees, then installing a 160 degree stat wont change the operating temperature. on the other hand if you install a 200 degree stat, the cooling system will then operate at 200 degree as the stat opens after the system design temperature has been reached.
as for calculating the water/antifreeze ratio, you can do it either by taking gallon bottles of coolant and filling them in a 70/30 ratio, or you can use a hydrometer to figure the ratio. there are ones available for coolant.
as to your fan, a five blade fan does help, sometimes a lot, and is worth the effort to get one.
as to a fan shroud, if you dont have one installed, install one. you can use one from a mustang of similar year.
i missed you having a fairlane, yes the mustang parts will work on that car as well.
as for calculating the water/antifreeze ratio, you can do it either by taking gallon bottles of coolant and filling them in a 70/30 ratio, or you can use a hydrometer to figure the ratio. there are ones available for coolant.
as to your fan, a five blade fan does help, sometimes a lot, and is worth the effort to get one.
as to a fan shroud, if you dont have one installed, install one. you can use one from a mustang of similar year.
i missed you having a fairlane, yes the mustang parts will work on that car as well.
I Didnt recommend using a cooler Stat , I said use a 180 , which is what the Falcon engines were designed for, I dont like 192-195 stats in pre 75 engines , OR engines designed before the use of those , if the car has all the upgrades in common with High temp stats then fine , a 62 fairlane is NOT that kind of a car , judging by the users comments
Not in 1962
run a GOOD flush through the block if it hasn't been rebuilt too. I can't remember what I've used, it's been years.
you can look at the front of the radiator for bends in the find. too many will slow airflow significantly. also, I might get flamed for this, but removing the carb plate pass through lowered my temps a bit as well, so did making sure all the heater lines were at least 4-5" from the header. small hoses, but every degree factors in somewhere.
I had your same set up with a fresh rebuild and original radiator with a 185° thermostat and honestly, in the winter, the heat wouldn't be much more than warm. the thermostat was closed fully about 40% of the time I believe.
you can look at the front of the radiator for bends in the find. too many will slow airflow significantly. also, I might get flamed for this, but removing the carb plate pass through lowered my temps a bit as well, so did making sure all the heater lines were at least 4-5" from the header. small hoses, but every degree factors in somewhere.
I had your same set up with a fresh rebuild and original radiator with a 185° thermostat and honestly, in the winter, the heat wouldn't be much more than warm. the thermostat was closed fully about 40% of the time I believe.
I am still using a 160 degree stat. I have been for 10+ years. But, I live in San Francisco and travel to 90+ weather. So, no winter problems.
On a side note. What is a good brand of stat to use now. I have heard the Stant products do not hold up well.
How about the high flow EMP/Stewart: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-3 ... e/3-3l-200
Also, when I installed my fan shroud. I used some foam to take up the space between the radiator and shroud. Most shrouds do not fit
snug against the radiator. Allowing air to pass around the shroud.
On a side note. What is a good brand of stat to use now. I have heard the Stant products do not hold up well.
How about the high flow EMP/Stewart: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/emp-3 ... e/3-3l-200
Also, when I installed my fan shroud. I used some foam to take up the space between the radiator and shroud. Most shrouds do not fit
snug against the radiator. Allowing air to pass around the shroud.
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