Crossflow 200 on hold

MustangSix

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I've had a lot of time this weekend to stare at this engine. It's been nearly a year and a half and I can't figure out any really good ways to deal with the carb/distributor interference issue without resorting to some really bizarre, one-off solutions.

As cool as this engine is and as powerful as I suspect it will be, I think I am going to have to build something more conventional to get the Locost running. I have one more good 200 on a stand and I think I will just modify a C6DE head to take a pair of Strombergs.

I'll just put the Hybrid on a stand until I get some time to sort it out.
 
Bummer. :x :x What was the reason that the the aussie bosch diz wouldn't work for you? :?
 
Never tried an Aussie distributor. It won't work on a US block.

Because the 200 block is so short, there is no room between the top of the distributor and the number one intake port. All the stock manifolds hit the cap.

I was going to use a DIS setup, but that is not working as well as I had hoped.

Right now I just want to get it running and the fastest way to do that is with a relatively easy head/block combo.
 
Well don't go tossing out all the parts lists and how-to stuff :wink: :lol:

I'm getting married next weekend, honeymoon to follow, but after that IT'S ON! The US250/Crossflow hybrid will begin to take form. So you can live vicariously through me! :lol:

I'm hoping the 250 block will allow enough room to use a conventional distributor setup, but if that doesn't work, I've been getting very familiar w/ the DIS setup on my SHO. And if (or when) worse comes to worst, I may just slap down the dough for one of those "all-in-one" kits w/ the TBI fuel injection and ignition management.

I just need to get this project out of "daydream" mode! :twisted:
 
How close is it actually??

Can you use a 69 or 70 distro with a pertronix instead of a duraspark?? IIRC, isnt the regular distributor 9or cap) shorter than the duraspark??

How about taking the distro to a machine shop and have them shorten up the base where it goes into the block a 1/2" then chop of the rod that goes into the oil pump a 1/2"?? Or is does it need more room for clearance than that??

Got any pics :D :D :D

According to this picture off my website,

duraspark.JPG


I would think it would be easy to cut even a inch of the base (inbetween the main housing and the flange that sits on the block) shorten it up and weld it back together.

Seems a shame to have to stop when your so close.... :cry: :cry: :cry:

Doug
 
To give you an idea, if you take an early point style distributor and put it in, the top of the posts is 3/8" higer than the intake port floor. That's why the manifold I built is on such an extreme angle.

I thought about slicing a distributor. Might work, but I'd also have to section the shaft. There's not enough depth for the hex shaft to just take it off the end.
 
C'mon Jack!!!!!!
Seems a shame to have to stop when your so close.... :cry: :cry: :cry:

Doug's right.....

what ever happened to the crab-style distributor cap????
angled distributor???? no distributor???? :shock: :? :shock:

MO32.jpg


Dodge Stratus 2.5 V6 ????

Your're EL PRESIDENTE, your ride HAS to be unique.... :D

Alex
 
Five options.


1. Factory solution, DIS EEC module. Use the distributorless ED Falcon of the mid 90's on wards had the OHC EEC DIS system. A simple blanking plug in exactly the same poisition on the block as the 200, and very simple crank trigger using the same basic crank parts as the little 200. Relay all the stock input channels, a run just the map sensor and TPS, and knock sensor. The SmartLock and codes have been broken by automtive electronics experts. No pictures yet.


Second is to use the aftermarket Vertex magneto set-up used in 188 and 221 racers in Argentina.

tc09.jpg


Third is to make a 8" extension adaptor, like this.

DSC02366.jpg


DSC02367.jpg


DSC02853.jpg



The stock 4.1 x-flow has another 1.6" of free area above the extreamly trim Bosch distributor. There is very little room.

DSC02852.jpg



On a 200 Jack Collins X-flow, the shortest ditributor ends up halfway up the number 1 and 2 intake ports. No room at all.

DSC02856.jpg



The x-flow 250/4.1 block is soooo much taller. Even 1.6 inches may as well be a mile!

DSC02854.jpg



Fourth is the aftermarket angle drive blower ignition drive used on GMC 6-71 blown Cleveland 335 and Lima 385 series engines, and 426 Hemis etc.


Fifth is a belt drive displacer which has been used in the Australian 351 Motorcraft EA Falcon pro-streeter. It has just offset the stock ignition out wards on the same plane, but with a cogged belt. Details as soon as I can get the picture uploaded.
 
I tried to make a crab cap, but I could never get it concentric or reliable. It kept cracking.

Another Idea was to mount the distributor on the timing cover and drive it directly off the cam.

I may still pursue the EDIS, but I'd like better software than is posted on the MJ Lite site.
 
Electromotive has stand-alone ignition / spark control units. I'm sure you've checked them out, but don't know if you want to go this path though

http://www.electromotive-inc.com/products/hpx.html
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/electro3a.htm

If I can't sell this V6, then more than likely I'm going to go with a MegaSquirt control with XDi ignition, otherwise, it would be the SDS EM-4F kit. I'd prefer a 4bbl carb on a 5.0 or a 4.6 w/ factory ECU though..I could make that swap cheaper than a EM-4F.
 
What about making an adaptor/extention for the manifold. Have a straight or curved piece of pipe that wouldgo over or around the top of the distributor and connect the manifold and the engine? It is hard to tell from the photos but it seems the problemis not where the port is but that the manifold curves over to the top of the manifold. If that is the case, a straignt peice that would push the manifold curve out would solve the problem and provide a more torque due to the increased length of the manifold runner due to the extension/adaptor. Of course youwould have to add length to all of the manifold runners. Remember if you are making an "adaptor", it could be straight, curve out then back in, curve up, etc.
 
I'm looking into the Mopar crab cap for the 2.5L V6. Looks like it could shave at least an inch off the height when you consider the wire/boot height on top of the stock cap. That should be enough to use a 68+ dizzy or Duraspark 1. The question is will it fit diameter-wise and what mods will be required to make it work on our dizzy body. :?:

Has anyone access to this cap? Maybe a late model junkyard? The cap came on the 2.5L V6 in the Sebring, Cirrus, Avenger, and Stratus. It's like $50+ for the cap and rotor from the usual parts sources, and there aren't any measurements available on the web that I am aware.
 
One of my customers bought a MSD Pro Mag with an offset to clear the injector setup. The offset was the simplest setup I have seen. A very small belt drive. This would be very easy to build. I do not have any pics but I can probably sketch something. Stand back I have a bridgeport and lathe and I am not afraid to use it!!!!
 
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