Does this sound like an overheating problem?

[Anonymous]

I have been having isues with the old stock temp gauge on the mustang so the other day I grabbed a mechanical one. In the crossflow the only place for the temp sensor is the t-stat housing so that is where the probe end is located. I am running a 170* stat. During regular driving the temp gauge shows no higher then 180-190* and even lower on the highway. Today I took the family to a drive in movie and we had to wait 10-15 minutes or so in line while we inched forward. The gauge got up to 225* by the time we got in.. It was maybe 80* outside.

I do not have ac
new 2 row radiator, water pump etc (fresh rebuild under 1k miles)
5 blade flex fan
auto trans


Do you think I have an overheating problem. I am thinking maybe a fan shroud or small 2nd electric fan may be the answer.....

 

[Bort62]

Sounds normal for not having a shroud or an elec fan.

225* isn't really overheating.

 

[CobraSix]

While 225* may not be overheating per se, the fact that you are running 50* warmer then your T-stat says to me there is an issue somewhere. My convertible has a 180* T-Stat and the temp rarely gets to 180* even on a 95* day idling for 30 minutes in traffic (now, my butt got hot though on those vinyl seats).

Try flushing your system, replace the T-Stat, and possibly look to replace the heater core. The heater core is a commonly overlooked overheating problem.

Slade

 

[68HoosierCoupe]

I now own this car, and this is still something to iron out. I did notice that when the car is running at temperature, the output from the heater is nowhere near what I would expect.

My question is why would a heater core cause overheating problems? A quick look at the setup, I followed the routing of the hoses to the heater core, and didn't notice any control valve/bypass valve. I have been away from Mustangs too long, but I thought there was normally something to control the flow of coolant to the core?

At any rate, the car runs cool at speed, and gets a little hotter in stop and go traffic (in 60 degree weather). Spyke recommended a small manually-switched electric fan, but I may go with full electric fan & controls and remove the flex fan.

 

[wallaka]

My question is why would a heater core cause overheating problems? A quick look at the setup, I followed the routing of the hoses to the heater core, and didn't notice any control valve/bypass valve. I have been away from Mustangs too long, but I thought there was normally something to control the flow of coolant to the core?

The heater core can cause overheating by restricting some coolant flow. Not total flow, but I suppose it could cause problems in extreme conditions (like stop-and-go driving).

There is no stock bypass valve for the heater, though you can install one if you choose.

 

[The Plankster Prankster]

My question is why would a heater core cause overheating problems? A quick look at the setup, I followed the routing of the hoses to the heater core, and didn't notice any control valve/bypass valve. I have been away from Mustangs too long, but I thought there was normally something to control the flow of coolant to the core?

some cars had a valve controlling the flow of water through the core, others had a valve controlling the flow of air over it. both effectively regulated heat to the cabin.
and a heater core shouldn't cause problems unless it's leaking. but it is a good defense against a car that's starting to run too hot, as turning on the heat cools the engine. saved me many times.

 

[66200i6]

I learned something interesting at a car show a few years back. A Falcon had the heater hose routed away from the block and was supported by a leather strap hung from the cross brace. This guy was the original owner and explained that the routing was a tech fix for running hot.

I have the same problem. With the new head there is no other place to run the heater hoses but between the new intake plenum and header.

I just installed a new three row rad. and was just able to fit the stock fan back in place. The fan blade is now about 5/8" from the fins which also helps. It just makes me a bit leery that when it’s that close.

I don't seem to have a problem any more. I won't really know until I run it again this weekend.

I have been studying the area left after installing the new three row and how it will work with an electric fan. The problem is that most 16" fans are too thick at the center due to the motor. If you’re planning on an electric fan anyhow I would try that first since you have a new two row.

Keep us posted, Ric.

 

[wallaka]

I learned something interesting at a car show a few years back. A Falcon had the heater hose routed away from the block and was supported by a leather strap hung from the cross brace. This guy was the original owner and explained that the routing was a tech fix for running hot.

Hmm...my car has this. Interesting.

 

[68HoosierCoupe]

I am going to try adding a fan shroud (missing) before going the electric fan route.

 

[Bort62]

General rule of thumb:

Overheating @ idle/traffic - airflow problem (fan, shroud, etc)

Overheating @ cruise/freeway/uphill - cooling system problem (WP, Radiator, etc).

 

[BUZZ]

I'm with Bort on this one. You need a fan shroud, if the factory didn't think it was needed they wouldn't have wasted the money it took to build and install one in every car.

 

[Bobscoupe]

68 Mustangs with a 200 6 cyl didn't come with fan shrouds.

Guess the factory didn't think we needed em.

Bob

 

[BIGREDRASA]

OK, what kind of fan shroud? As far as I know, it wasn't stock, and the fan is off to the side, so the stock Bent8 shroud doesn't fit well. Do you mod the Bent8 shroud?

 

[Bort62]

Yeah there was no stock fan shroud

I'm just offering general information here - I have to specific insights to your problem

 

[wallaka]

So disrespectful.

 

[Bort62]

I do like the sound of my own voice. It has a certain ring to it...

Except that doesn't do much for me while typing. My keyboard does make an oddly satisfying clicking noise however.

 

[66200i6]

The center of the fan is offset towards the passenger side. The only other thing to try is to get the fan closer to the fins.

If a shroud can be found that will fit this radiator the fan may still need to be adjusted. I believe the rule of thumb there is to have about 1/4 of the fan sticking out of the shroud.

Good luck, Ric.

 

[BIGREDRASA]

The center of the fan is offset towards the passenger side. The only other thing to try is to get the fan closer to the fins.

If a shroud can be found that will fit this radiator the fan may still need to be adjusted. I believe the rule of thumb there is to have about 1/4 of the fan sticking out of the shroud.

Good luck, Ric.

I had to buy a shorter spacer when I put in my 3 row rad. Darn fan bolts so close to the rad made me nervous.

Another thing that may help is tranny cooler to take someof the heat out of the rad.

 

[l3n]

I learned something interesting at a car show a few years back. A Falcon had the heater hose routed away from the block and was supported by a leather strap hung from the cross brace. This guy was the original owner and explained that the routing was a tech fix for running hot.

Is that what that thing is for? I have the strap, and I never could figure out what it was supposed to do. Nothing's hooked up to it since I disconnected the heater core and removed the lines. I've got a humongous radiator up front now anyways.

Thanks for the info.

 

[BUZZ]

You can use the shroud off of a 20" radiator. If I'm thinkin right it would be a 67'-69'with a small block V8. It'll need a little trimming but it didn't take much to fit it on my wifes 68'. If you can't find a used one Mustang Unlimited has one its part#98416 they sell it for 46.95 if that helps any.