DSII Complications?

1967JMG

Well-known member
Okay, so, I want to go the DSII rout. I'm sure the answer to this could be like my last question, which basically left it up to personal preference...but, how complicated is it to hook up a DSII system? It seems like some people on here have had major problems and scrapped the DSII for other distributors, whereas other people have said it was the easiest thing in the world to wire up... So what all does it entail? Does the kit from CI bundle everything into a harness that makes everything simple connections? Im sure that would be something that would make it easier than having to figure everything out for yourself... Oh, and is the dyna module in any way comparable to the msd?
Thanks again!
JMG
 
It is easy and it can be cheap you just need the parts from a junkyard or other source. If you don't have any of the parts now one simple way is get a complete DSII ignition from a donor car. The distrib, cap, wires, control box, and wire harness etc. Install the distrib. and mount control box to fender plug in the harness, coil etc. You just need to run one new wire for a full 12V from ignition switch by passing the resistor wire in cars old harness. All kinds of other parts combos that are a variation using different triggers and coils. They will use little different wire harness so you first have to decide on the combo of parts you are going to use. MSD (and a Jacobs) are multi spark units so don't think you can compare them to others
 
bubba22349":p5z0glip said:
It is easy and it can be cheap you just need the parts from a junkyard or other source. If you don't have any of the parts now one simple way is get a complete DSII ignition from a donor car. The distrib, cap, wires, control box, and wire harness etc. Install the distrib. and mount control box to switch by passing the resistor wire in cars old harness. All kinds of other parts combos that are a variation using different triggers and coils. They will use little different wire harness so you first have to decide on the combo of parts you are going to use. MSD (and a Jacobs) are multi spark units so don't think you can compare them to others
Unless you're using a aftermarket coil, you do not want to bypass the resistor wire.
Full 12v is applied to coil in the start position, then switches to the reduced voltage in the run position. Full 12v to the stock coil will overheat it and shorten it's life greatly.
 
8) one nice thing about the DSll system is that you dont even have to get a six cylinder specific harness. you can get the harness from the control box to the distributor from ANY DSll equipped car. in fact ford may still sell the harness through their motorsports program.
 
the kit from CI says it comes with ALL necessary wiring. So i assume that includes the harness?
 
1967JMG":2ekutjmg said:
the kit from CI says it comes with ALL necessary wiring. So i assume that includes the harness?

If you do end up choosing the Dyna Module from CI, the module will come with 4 wires.

2 For the distributor, and 2 for the +side/-side of the ignition coil.

The distributor needs a ground so you're gonna need to buy some 14g wire.
 
RyanCorpse":10uddyjs said:
1967JMG":10uddyjs said:
the kit from CI says it comes with ALL necessary wiring. So i assume that includes the harness?

If you do end up choosing the Dyna Module from CI, the module will come with 4 wires.

2 For the distributor, and 2 for the +side/-side of the ignition coil.

The distributor needs a ground so you're gonna need to buy some 14g wire.

8) well said ryan. perhaps one day we will make a mechanic out of you :lol: :lol:
 
I have a question about this conversion in a 67 mustang.

I have the dist in and wired to the HEI, removed the I terminal and attached the electric choke from the carb there whihc seems to work ok. I removed the original coil wire and jumped the positive to battery to test it.

It started and runs, but rough. Not sure if its the carb or the timing. Its smoking a bit, fuel smoke, and just seems like its either missing and not burning fuel or running so rich to the point of flooding. I am planning to start with the timing, then vacuum, then carb. Is that the right order?

Also, I removed the ford spacer and drilled and mounted the stovebolt adapter direct to the manifold. In doing so, I had to relocate the PCV. I ran it to the manifold vacuum port. Is that an acceptable location? or do I need to adapt it into the air cleaner base like some 289s?

As far as my 12 volt source. Is there an easy way to get to the ignition bullet connection of the resistor wire and the 12v ignition wire in a 1967 mustang? Or do I need to pull the entire instrument cluster to hook it up?

Thanks for the help.
 
bucfan1234":14yiliob said:
As far as my 12 volt source. Is there an easy way to get to the ignition bullet connection of the resistor wire and the 12v ignition wire in a 1967 mustang? Or do I need to pull the entire instrument cluster to hook it up?

Thanks for the help.

that was going to be my next question! :D
 
Btw, very nice mustang 1967JMG! (Are your shelby stripes painted on?)

I have pulled the whole cluster before a couple of times when I was restoring the interior, but I don't really want to battle that speedo cable again if I can avoid it.

My first thought was to to run the ignition off a 40A relay with the relay switch triggered by the original the resistor wire, but that will not work since the resistor wire is bypassed upon cranking the motor would never start. Struggling to think of another place to switch the relay from so I am thinking of just hooking up directly to the ignition switch in place of the resistor wire.

Also, will any coil work with the HEI or does it have to be a TFI coil? I have this one mounted in the stock location Accel Coil?
 
Check in the stickys like these here

Duraspark II Conversion
viewtopic.php?t=21002
viewtopic.php?t=53797

Modify the DSII for Better Mileage
viewtopic.php?t=30894
 
yeah. my stripes are painted on. :D
i don't worry about it. i must be a "maroon" too because i have read those threads also and still have questions.
i want to do the dsII, but the daunting task of this wiring is making the extra pricey DUI look much more appealing...
 
With all stock Ford parts from donor get the wire harness too. I know that for some people looking at a wiring diagram on a drawing looks way different from the actual harness I had trouble with this at first when I started working as a mechanic. But when you start to trace the runs of wires in a harness from an individual part like an ignition switch or the starter solenoid it will not be that big of a deal. Remember that when you look to find a wire at one end start by checking the color and that it may have a tracer or the stripe they are going to match at both ends of the wire. And these colors and tracers are listed on a factory-wiring diagram so you look to see were it starts and ends.
 
Thanks bubba22349, I think I have the wiring figured out now. Looks like I will be removing the cluster, scrapping the relay idea, and wiring it to the red/green at the bullet connection for the resistor wire.

The wiring actually seems fairly simple, I had the motor running direct from the battery, but I was just hoping to avoid the dash work. :lol:

Oh well, it will be simplified by just wiring it up directly to the switch and neater looking under the hood. Thanks again.

One other question, I had to remove the ford spacer (which looked pretty restrictive; noticeably smaller diameter than either the adapter or the manifold, which are about the same) and I moved the pcv from there down to the manifold vacuum port. This moved the pcv about an inch relative to its previous position on the manifold. From what I read on here and in the shop manual this looks like a proper location. Will it work there properly?
 
Did you make it so it is same size as the passage in the old plate? You may need to put some kind of a restriction like a plug drilled out to the right size.
 
I believe it it is the same size as the fitting plumbed into the adapter plate. I did it like the inset drawing on the PCV illustration for the imco high po 170-200, whatever that was, in the 200 six section of 1967 shop manual

Basically its a brass tee plumbed into the manifold with a 3/8 fitting with 3/8 push on hose barb plumbed into that, transmission vacuum was just moved out to the end of the tee and remained in the same fitting.

I have this street tee into the manifold vacuum port
PCV goes into the first 90 degree port through a fitting Like this one, but in brass
Transmission vacuum line is plumbed into the end of the street tee via the male elbow, (which is the same as the original setup just moved out to the end of the tee).

Look ok?
 
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