DSII Complications?

[bubba22349]

It’s probably going to be fine. Usally I try and keep the fitting as close to the carbs base as possible. Glad you are getting a handle on the wiring too.

 

[bucfan1234]

Thanks for your help! I will have this thing going soon.

The PCV is about 1" lower on the manifold and slightly forward (mybe not quite 1/2") from its original location, which was the original location of the transmission vacuum connection.

I apologize if some of these questions are stupid, this is my first time completely changing out an entire ignition system, and also the first carb swap that resulted in this much modification to linkages, vacuum, choke on a 200.

Thanks again.

 

[bubba22349]

:thanks: No problem we all have to start learning some where :!: Use to hang around shops and watch when I was a little kid just itching to work on cars. Finally saved up and bought my first at 13. I really had so many people help me learn and take time to show me things. So keep on working and learning

 

[bucfan1234]

yeah. my stripes are painted on.
i don't worry about it. i must be a "maroon" too because i have read those threads also and still have questions.
i want to do the dsII, but the daunting task of this wiring is making the extra pricey DUI look much more appealing...

Stripes look awesome . . . maybe someday.

 

[bucfan1234]

Thanks for the help everyone. Duraspark II is in and the car is running great! Starts right up now, no more hard starts.


but the carb from stovebolt is running a little rich, still trying to figure that one out . . . ?

 

[bubba22349]

Great On the carb check to see that float level is not too high :!: Sometimes in shipment things get tossed around enough that it might of changed the setting

 

[bucfan1234]

Thanks for the tip.

I put a FP regulator on it and now it is drivable. I am thinking that I just need to spend some time, and go through the setup procedure again.

Is there an easy way to adjust to adjust the float height on this model, and what is the optimal height for my application.

 

[bubba22349]

The regulator is good idea it keeps from pushing the needle off seat. But it won't help if fuel level is set too high to begin with; fuel will still be dumping down the throat of carb. For the optimal float height on any carb it’s going to be a wet measurement (bowl to the top of fuel) under fuel pressure usually this is done on a carb flow bench. On some carbs this is easy enough to do like an Autolite or any carb where cover could come off and the needle and seat with float is all in the lower bowl. With the cover off measure it with engine idling, you need to of course be very careful doing this on a running engine when it’s hot. I would not recommend it to someone that has little or no experience with carbs. Most of the time a dry measurement spec by using a 6 inch steel machinists rule is going to be as close as it needs to be unless you building some kind of all out race car.

 

[bucfan1234]

Thanks. I have "little" experience with carbs so I guess I wont be doing that. haha

 

[bubba22349]

Was short of time so had to come back and edit that post a little bit. But yeah is better not try with it running if you are new to it. You could check it with the engine cooled down and see what the fuel level is. Most carbs you would be looking for a float near to level or just slightly below level with the needle seated.

 

[bucfan1234]

Bubba,

Thanks for all of your help. This was the trouble the whole time, well this and a faulty module doing weird things. I finally got a chance to work on it and the nerve to just go ahead and pull the top of the carb. The float was way out of the way you described level, and I learned how to adjust it.

Once I put it at level, and replaced the module, the engine purred and ran smooth. The erratic movement and low number (15ish) on my vac gauge was replaced by a steady reading just shy of 20.

I went through the tuning process for timing with the vac gauge posted on CI, and checking with the timing light it looks to be 14* initial. That said it is very difficult to see on my motor as the power steering gear and belts obstruct the view of the timing marks.

Took her out for spin with everything corrected, and I cant believe the difference. She is noticeably quicker, seems to have more power and that carb and air filter combo is producing a really great sound. Based on that, I can't wait to get my headers and dual exhaust installed. She even rewarded me with a little spin of a tire rounding a corner.

 

[Kustomkarma]

While we're talking DS II conversions, what's the best way to find TDC and install a DS II dizzy? My LOM is currently installed in the wrong position and the car is running really rough (there's a long story that goes with this :roll: ) so I don't really have a good reference point to mark everything before I remove it. Also, where do the red and white wires go again? I'm going to try to straighten this out this coming weekend - I hope - then order my new carb with a vacuum port.

 

[bubba22349]

This was the trouble the whole time, well this and a faulty module doing weird things. I finally got a chance to work on it and the nerve to just go ahead and pull the top of the carb. The float was way out of the way you described level, and I learned how to adjust it.

I am glad you’re got it running better. Keep tuning now a small change at a time until you get it to the max. Good Luck

 

[bubba22349]

While we're talking DS II conversions, what's the best way to find TDC and install a DS II dizzy? My LOM is currently installed in the wrong position and the car is running really rough (there's a long story that goes with this ) so I don't really have a good reference point to mark everything before I remove it. Also, where do the red and white wires go again?

Number of ways to find TDC with out pulling the head, first you should have a factory mark on the damper that lines up with timing tab on engine. If you think it may be wrong (slipped) you can also take a piece of wire (welding rod coat hanger etc.) in the number one cylinder turn engine forward on the compression stroke watch wire rise to high point that’s TDC. If you need to be super accurate you can make a pistion stop from old spark plug shell weld a rod from about ¾ to 1 ½ inch longer (depends on chamber size and pistons) than the electrode length grind end into a ball shape (no sharp edges). Install turn engine by hand (gently) until it contact the stop make a mark on damper corresponding to the timing tab. Now turn engine back wards again until it contacts the stop make a second mark on damper the center between these two marks should be as close to TDC as you need to get check it with the original mark. On the DSII red to run position on ign. Sw. white to start position