Fan clearance

[Rocky62falcon]

So I just bought a 62 falcon and had to replace the radiator. When I installed a 2 row I found I have about 1/8" clearance between my stock 4 blade fan and the radiator. There is a 1/2" spacer on the fan that appears to be after market. If I try to mount the fan without the spacer it hit the lower pulley. The guy I bought the car from claims he recently installed a 170 ci motor to replace the 140. I will admit I mostly draw cars rather than work on them, so I am not the most savvy car guy, but you gotta start somewhere. Is this space normal? I can provide pics after I get home tonight.

 

[jamyers]

It's typical for these fans to run really close to the radiator, especially since there isn't any shroud. 1/8 inch seems a bit close, though...

The 144, 170, and 200 all have the same length. There is a long-necked water pump for some later engines, but it doesn't sound like yours has it.

You ought to be able to loosen up the motor mount to frame bracket bolts (and tranny mount) and slide the whole engine / tranny backwards. The brackets have about 1 inch slots in them. I'd shoot for 1/2 inch clearance, and make sure your motor mounts are in good shape (wouldn't do to have the engine twist over and eat the radiator).

 

[LaGrasta]

when your cooling system is in good working order, these cars never overheat. My advice; toss a pusher fan on the front of the radiator freeing up any hp due to fan drag. That solves your clearance problem and gains a small performance edge.

 

[addo]

Most fan spacers are longer than ½".

I'm wondering if you have a 250 in there.

 

[Rocky62falcon]

I have no clue whats in there. I will take some pics tonight and jot down some numbers.

 

[Rocky62falcon]

Head numbers: C6DE-6090-B
Block numbers: C5DE-6015-H

pics of fan and engine with motor mounts

[/img]

 

[wallaka]

Most fan spacers are longer than ½".

Not on U.S. 200s. Leastways, not on my '65 200. The spacer was bonded to the fan too, either intentionally or by galvanic reaction. It was just far enough to clear the crank pulley and clear the radiator.

 

[xctasy]

I found all my 200 Log head block parts while I tidyied up my garage today. I also found the X-flow pulley package I still owe one guy in the US . I find it a bit hard to discuss it without getting the 'guilts'....

There are short and long 200 water pumps. The emissions era versions got an air pump around that time, and there were changes when power steering and A/C started to became standard. Fan clutches didn't appear untill the early 80's.


My 1966 200 has a similar spacer, and thats your problem.

I'd just cut down the four (or two ?)blades to clear the big harmonic blancer (crank pulley), and make darn sure when you remove or trim the spacer down, you reduce the bolt lenghts and make sure they are replaced by really got quality new ones

 

[jamyers]

If you're not using that second pulley groove, you could swap the balancer/pulley for a single groove one and lose the spacer completely.

Have you crawled under it and looked at the mount slots? I'll bet you can move the whole thing backwards at least a little bit.

 

[Rocky62falcon]

Sorry to be a complete rube, but do you know where I can get a single loop balancer/pulley? BTW thanks for all the help. I will crawl under this weekend and see if there is room to move the engine back a bit.

 

[jamyers]

Sorry to be a complete rube, but do you know where I can get a single loop balancer/pulley? BTW thanks for all the help. I will crawl under this weekend and see if there is room to move the engine back a bit.

Hey, no problem at all! The single-groove balancer/pulleys were used on non-power steering (aka most all early cars) engines, they're not hard to get.

www.falconparts.com has them, as do most any Falcon or Mustang supplier. Heck, NAPA may well be able to get them...

From falconparts;
1960-1970 FORD FALCON SINGLE SHEATH DAMPER - 6 CYLINDER
Category: FORD FALCON ENGINE PARTS
Product ID: C2DZ-6312-A
Description: This Ford Falcon part is the engine damper ( Harmonic Balancer) for the Falcon 6 cylinder engines. This is a new ( Not Rebuilt) part. This part will fit the Falcon 6 cylinder engines 1960 - 70. This Ford Falcon part has one sheath or groove.
Price: $67.50 "

 

[Rocky62falcon]

Thank you. very much appreciated. I have another question, how can I tell if my engine is a 170 or a 200? Is there a clear way of telling the difference?

 

[wallaka]

With that year, it's most likely a 200. But an easy way to check is to look under the exhaust manifold. A 170 or 144 will have 3 freeze plugs, a 200 will have 5. Other methods include measuring cylinder volume.

 

[Rocky62falcon]

Is it relatively easy to swap out the dampener? Does it mess with the timing and timing mark? Does it just slide off or do I need a special tool to pop it off?

 

[jahearne]

It is fairly easy to replace it. You have to buy/rent/borrow a puller. It shouldn't mess with your timing marks any unless your old one slipped or you're buying a used one that has slipped. Set you engine at TDC before removing it and the new one should line right up. The only way to tell if one slipped is to make sure your piston is at top dead center, TDC. There are posts on how to check for TDC.

 

[jamyers]

To swap dampers:

Remove all the belts and probably the radiator as well (it needed flushing anyways, right? )

Get a large socket (1 1/8"???), and a long-handled ratchet. Probably have to be 1/2" drive, I forget the socket size.

Put the socket on the bolt in the middle of the damper, and rest the handle on the top of the driver's side frame rail (or under the pass side rail).

With somebody holding the wrench in place, bump the starter once or twice, and let the starter break the bolt loose for you. (I've never had this fail to work)

USE A DAMPER PULLER to get the damper started off the crank hub. Don't try and pry on it or beat it with a hammer - it won't work and the best you'll do it knock off the outer ring anyways.

Installation of the new damper is straightforward, there's a woodruff key to locate the damper / timing mark.

About the only boogerbear is holding the crank from rotating while you tighten the bolt on the new damper - it has to be TIGHT (I forget the spec, but some call for 180-200lb/ft.) You can have a helper hold the large screwdriver in the flywheel teeth, that usually works well.

 

[addo]

The only other proviso is to not damage the crank snout threads when pulling with the puller...

 

[jamyers]

The only other proviso is to not damage the crank snout threads when pulling with the puller...

Oh, yeah...that. I usually remember that one after I've cranked the puller bolt deep into the first coupla threads...

Use the little pointed end thingy!

 

[Rocky62falcon]

Thanks guys. I actually checked the timing today and everything seemed correct. I am going to wait on the single groove balancer since the engine is coming out in 3 months anyway. I did check and I saw 5 freeze plugs so I am guessing its a 200. Now I need to find a 250 head for the rebuild. How do you guys check for proper belt tension? the Manual says to use a special tool. Is this tool still available? Also I took the family out for a spin and found out the rear shocks bottomed out when the old lady got in the back seat. Guess I will be needing new shocks too.

 

[Anonymous]

I took the family out for a spin and found out the rear shocks bottomed out when the old lady got in the back seat.

Please...no pictures...

Shocks won't help, they only slow down movement.
New rear srings, or added "helper springs" are needed.