Ford inlines don't keep cool
- Thread starter KustomSkylark
- Start date
IIRC the Hudson Hornet engine we built so many years back had a brass insert that went from the waterpump flange on the front of the engine all the way to the back and it had holes spaced evenly so all of the cylinders got cooled evenly.
Either Toyota or Mazda has a seperate channel cast down one side of the block and holes spaced evenly on the cylinders. This prevents the water being dumped straight on the front cylinders.
The worst inline engine cooling system has to be the sideways mounted 151 pontiac. The engine has to have more clearence on #1 or it will scuff the piston.
Either Toyota or Mazda has a seperate channel cast down one side of the block and holes spaced evenly on the cylinders. This prevents the water being dumped straight on the front cylinders.
The worst inline engine cooling system has to be the sideways mounted 151 pontiac. The engine has to have more clearence on #1 or it will scuff the piston.
I'm chiming in late so if I repeat anything, sorry.
First, the engine should run cool. I had overheating problems that I ended up tracing to a dieing radiator. now with a new pump, radiator, hoses (including to the heater core, very important actually), and 180* T-Stat, I can't get my engine to run above 175* (verified by a mechanical gauge). Always run a mechanical gauge to check. I've seen my gauge position vary wildly from changing senders. I can't get it ot over heat on 100* days letting it idle in the sun for 30 minutes (I tried...).
Things to check outside the cooling system:
Gauge
TIming
Carb
Things to check inside the cooling system:
Chem flush to get stuff out of the cooling passages.
T--Stat
Hoses
Water Pump
Hoses to heater core
Heater core
Radiator.
Start cheap and work your way up.
Slade
First, the engine should run cool. I had overheating problems that I ended up tracing to a dieing radiator. now with a new pump, radiator, hoses (including to the heater core, very important actually), and 180* T-Stat, I can't get my engine to run above 175* (verified by a mechanical gauge). Always run a mechanical gauge to check. I've seen my gauge position vary wildly from changing senders. I can't get it ot over heat on 100* days letting it idle in the sun for 30 minutes (I tried...).
Things to check outside the cooling system:
Gauge
TIming
Carb
Things to check inside the cooling system:
Chem flush to get stuff out of the cooling passages.
T--Stat
Hoses
Water Pump
Hoses to heater core
Heater core
Radiator.
Start cheap and work your way up.
Slade
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
You know, I did block both the heater hoses so neither of them go anywhere. Could this be my problem? I don't really need a heater in Phoenix even in the winter so I just blocked them.
Unless I'm mistaken, even if the heater is off, water still circulates there.
Sure, it shouldn't make a huge difference. I had a completely plugged one that I didn't replace until I started driving in the winter and it would put out no heat.
My current setup for cooling:
Autozone standard water pump (gotta love lifetime warranties)
3-row Radiator from Modine
180* T-Stat
Stock 4 blade steel fan.
I ran a flexfan for a while, but I hated the noise it generated at medium RPM so once I got my cooling under wraps, I went back to stock and noticed no difference once my cooling system was in good condition. Now, the flex fan does draw more air across the radiator at idle then stock, don't get me wrong on that. Just once you get a cooling system in order, you should be fine with a stock fan. I only upgraded the radiator since mine was shot and I figured, if I'm going to replace it, I'm going to make sure this car doesn't overheat ever again. This was the last thing I replaced on my car's cooling system so I only wanted to do it once.
Slade
Sure, it shouldn't make a huge difference. I had a completely plugged one that I didn't replace until I started driving in the winter and it would put out no heat.
My current setup for cooling:
Autozone standard water pump (gotta love lifetime warranties)
3-row Radiator from Modine
180* T-Stat
Stock 4 blade steel fan.
I ran a flexfan for a while, but I hated the noise it generated at medium RPM so once I got my cooling under wraps, I went back to stock and noticed no difference once my cooling system was in good condition. Now, the flex fan does draw more air across the radiator at idle then stock, don't get me wrong on that. Just once you get a cooling system in order, you should be fine with a stock fan. I only upgraded the radiator since mine was shot and I figured, if I'm going to replace it, I'm going to make sure this car doesn't overheat ever again. This was the last thing I replaced on my car's cooling system so I only wanted to do it once.
Slade
kirkallen143
Famous Member
Just as an add-in, I normally fill the radiator w/ at least 1 gallon of anti-freeze and the rest water. Well, the turbo made the engine run alittle hotter than I wanted in 98 degree weather, @ 215 degrees. For kicks and $8.00 I tried some Water Wetter...drained what would come out of petcock, topped off with water and added @ 12 oz. of the Water Wetter. It is not a lie, I now run 190 degrees and yesterday it was almost 100 degrees here in Texas. I'm sold! I don't know what it actually does, but it does.
This is with a 3-row Modine, 160 stat, @ 15% anti-freeze/85% H2O and 12oz of water wetter. You can get it at any local auto parts. As much as we all have put into these engines, what's another $8.00 I ask you.
Kirk
This is with a 3-row Modine, 160 stat, @ 15% anti-freeze/85% H2O and 12oz of water wetter. You can get it at any local auto parts. As much as we all have put into these engines, what's another $8.00 I ask you.
Kirk
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
I've already got the Water Wetter in there. I just put my six blade on and I'm going to move down to a 180 thermo. I'll let you guys know the results tomorrow some time.
A
Anonymous
Guest
That quote is from the tech info on Redline's website. Just keep in mind that the corrosion inhibitors are not as plentiful or long lasting as the antifreeze mixtures that the coolants have mixed in them. It does not say it, but I would suspect that they recommend replenishing every year or less given the 15,000 mile limitation. I don't think you could live by the 15,000 mi guideline if you just put a few thousand miles per year on your car.
Doug
I wrote a long post describing some of my experiences but when I submitted it the sys asked me to login again and the post got lost, bummer.
SO I'LL JUST CONTENT MYSELF BY REVISTING AN OLD ISSUE THAT SEEMS TO RESURFACE ON THIS BOARD FROM TIME TO TIME.
DO NOT I REPAET DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES IN YOUR THERMOSTAT WITHOUT FIRST CHECKING TO SEE IF IT ALREADY HAS ONE. THEY CAN BE HARD TO SEE BUT IF YOU HOLD THE FRONT SIDE TOWARD THE SUN AND LOOK AT THE BACK SIDE THEY SHOW UP JUST FINE.; I HAVE YET TO FIND A THERMOSTAT THAT DID NOT HAVE A BLEED HOLE.
sO CHECK FIRST AND THEN MAKE SURE THAT THE BLEED HOLD IS AT THE TOP. THIS HOLE IS THERE TO HELP BLEED AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.
IF YOU DRILL ANOTHER AND MOUNT THE THERMOSTAT WITH THE UNRECOGNIZED HOLE ON THE BOTTOM YOU WILL NOT BLEED ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM AND THIS COULD CAUSE OVER HEATING.
SO I'LL JUST CONTENT MYSELF BY REVISTING AN OLD ISSUE THAT SEEMS TO RESURFACE ON THIS BOARD FROM TIME TO TIME.
DO NOT I REPAET DO NOT DRILL ANY HOLES IN YOUR THERMOSTAT WITHOUT FIRST CHECKING TO SEE IF IT ALREADY HAS ONE. THEY CAN BE HARD TO SEE BUT IF YOU HOLD THE FRONT SIDE TOWARD THE SUN AND LOOK AT THE BACK SIDE THEY SHOW UP JUST FINE.; I HAVE YET TO FIND A THERMOSTAT THAT DID NOT HAVE A BLEED HOLE.
sO CHECK FIRST AND THEN MAKE SURE THAT THE BLEED HOLD IS AT THE TOP. THIS HOLE IS THERE TO HELP BLEED AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM.
IF YOU DRILL ANOTHER AND MOUNT THE THERMOSTAT WITH THE UNRECOGNIZED HOLE ON THE BOTTOM YOU WILL NOT BLEED ALL THE AIR OUT OF THE SYSTEM AND THIS COULD CAUSE OVER HEATING.
Here's how it works. Unless you know where the manufacterer put his hole you are unlikely to put yours in line with his except by accident. So when you install the thermostat with your hole at the top the other will be lower. When you fill the system it will fill to the lowest hole.
Well I guess that now on further concideration I can't see why it would'nt continue to fill at a slower rate. So maybe you could get all the air out. It just seems like a waist of time to redue what the manufacterer has already done.
Well I guess that now on further concideration I can't see why it would'nt continue to fill at a slower rate. So maybe you could get all the air out. It just seems like a waist of time to redue what the manufacterer has already done.
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
OK i've got six blades, and a 180 thermo and........Still the same. I've convinced myself that it must be my vacume advance or my carb needing better tuning. Luckly I have a new vacume advance in storage somewhere. Also I just ordered new jets for the carb so hopefully, i'll get that calibrated for my 200. I think it could be my vac. advance because it is an old one, from a 144 that I had put on a new distributer. I used the old one cause I couldn't get an fittings to screw onto the new one. So I think I'll further inspect the newer one and chase it with a tap and see if I can get it to work. I'll keep the board posted.
Have you flushed your system at all? What about your water pump? SOrry, not 100% up to date.
By all means, check the timing as it's free thing to check on. But if this is a chronic problem I still think there is something off in your cooling system. I used to think that old engines just wouldn't stay cool anymore but changed my mind once I completely overhauled my cooling system.
Slade
By all means, check the timing as it's free thing to check on. But if this is a chronic problem I still think there is something off in your cooling system. I used to think that old engines just wouldn't stay cool anymore but changed my mind once I completely overhauled my cooling system.
Slade
A
Anonymous
Guest
This is a bit off the subject, but this post has talked about 5 and 6 bladed fans. Will a 5 or 6 bladed fan off a small block (289) Ford fit? Is the four hole bolt pattern line up? Thanks Lowell
KustomSkylark
Well-known member
Everything is new and the engine is fresh. The water pump is from my last 200 but was still new, I inspected it while putting the engine together. It could be bad still though. If the new vacume advance doesn't do anything, i'm going to go after the water pump since they are fairly cheap.
CobraSix":1uu94tci said:
In that fast, if the timing fails...how old is your radiator?
I don't think a 3 row is needed. I did it thinking it would help. Problem I have now is if the temp is lower then 40* outside, my car NEVER warms up past 140* with a 180* Tstat. That means I have pretty much NO heat during the winter. I have to do the same to it as I do to my explorer and block off part of the radiator during the winter so the car will actually warm up.
Slade
I don't think a 3 row is needed. I did it thinking it would help. Problem I have now is if the temp is lower then 40* outside, my car NEVER warms up past 140* with a 180* Tstat. That means I have pretty much NO heat during the winter. I have to do the same to it as I do to my explorer and block off part of the radiator during the winter so the car will actually warm up.
Slade
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