Ford inlines don't keep cool

CobraSix":3ifnjeaf said:
In that fast, if the timing fails...how old is your radiator?

2 week old 3-row radiator. I'm thinking that it must be the advance cause I noticed that it misses and pops at high speeds with both barrels open. Isn't that a sign that it's not advanceing?
 
While I"m not a timing expert as to tell you which way it is not moving, you are right, if you are popping at speed, you have a timing issue. Probably lack of advance.

Slade
 
So I changed the vacume advance out. I was correct, the old one was a peice of junk. Well it's still early to say weather it solved the problem but it is definatly better. It unlocked a lot of power that was missing. I drove it to work and it stayed around 190 the whole 20 miles, with a 180 thermo. Is it possible that the back of the head is 10 degrees hotter then the thermostat area? Anyway, I won't know for sure untill after work and it's hot. I'll let you know what I find out.
 
more likely, either your gauge isn't calibrated 100% or your T-stat isn't 100% on 180*. that's only 5% error between 180* on the Tstat and 190* on the gauge. For a non-calibrated gauge, that is a very reasonable error.

Is that measured from an electrical T-stat, or mechanical gauge? It is very possible the rear of the head is warmer then the front. It's the end of the cooling sytem route and furthest from the forced fresh cool air from the front and usually kept warm by the exhaust.

Slade
 
I have been reading this topic. Intersting stuff, since I battled a overheating problem myself. Every year going to Reno, NV for Hot August Nights with 100+ degree eather and idleing forever trying to get a parking spot at one of the casino's.

Anyways, just wondering if you tried letting your car idle in hot weather with the radiator cap off and sticking a candy thermometer in the radiator and looking at the temp? Candy thermometer's can be found in almost any grocery store.
 
Well the problem seems sovled by the new vacume advance. Thanks for all your help and info, it was a very interesting read, definatly some good knowledge soaked up and it will come in handy living in Phoenix and messing with old cars. Thanks again.
 
Basically I've come to a few conclusions about old cars and cooling systems:

If anyone tells you that you just have to accept that an old car is going to overheat short of massive new radiators, electric fans, and all sorts of other do-dads is missing one simple fact.: The earth hasn't heated up enough yet to make a system that worked well in 1965 all of a sudden not work well in 2006. If you have a good, solid, clean system with working components, your car will run cool in any temperature. Clean radiators, cooling ports, working pumps, and Tstats will keep the car cool. You don't need 6 blade flex fans, water wetter, and 160* T-stats to keep your car running cool on hot days. The thing I've learned is all those 'remedies' only help mask the underlying problem. They are many times cheaper 'fixes' then addressing the real problem. Eventually the real problem will continue to grow and you'll be forces to deal with more overheating. I even think that my 3-row radiator is overkill since my car can not even hit 160* with a 180* T-stat during the winter and only hits 176* in the summer, idling for 30 minutes in 100*.


Slade
 
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