holley issues....

XFlow_Fairlane

XFlow_Fairlane

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ok I got everything together but I am having problems getting my holley to idle.....or set the float level or anything.....

I got some nylon washers fomr the hardware store under the nut and screw on teh float adjuster but no matter where I put it I get a WAY high float level or fuel out the vent. is it possible that my '78 pump is too high of a pressure? I have a regulator so maybe I will need to toss that on.

this is just killing me....I got my brakes all back together...the turbo on and bonnet done.....exhaust even....ordering a cable tomorrow or so.....but I can't even get it to run properly

oh and on top of this I am getting no idle circuit action
 
What holley carb do you have??? First holley carbs do not use nylon washers from a hardware store for the adjustable needle & seat, holley makes specific gaskets for proper sealing.

Run a fuel pressure check. A holley can take and likes 8# of pressure I doubt your mechanical pump is putting that much pressure out.

If your running a blowthrough setup you need the nitro-phyl float 116-3 if you have a center hung float.

Check to see if you have debris in the needle & seat causing flooding. That would cause your idle to be not adjustable.

Remove the float bowl & set the float at a horizonal level for its initial setting. Do you have the o'ring on the removeable needle & seat??

Remember to run a line to the inlet side of your mechanical fuel pump housing so you get your regular fuel pump pressure plus your turbo pressure. ****Does 10 correct me if I'm wrong or Linc or anybody using a turbo.

Man a turbo set-up what kind of set-up do have. That may be my next venture till Mike gets his heads produced. Good luck William



Give a shout if you have further problems with your holley. William
 
well I can't get the washers local (live in BFE) so I had to try and get by on what I can get....but seems like it isn't working. I am going out today and I guess I am ordering a rebuild kit so I can go through this thing once and for all.

I am running a 7448 350cfm 2 v with a notched solid float with jet extensions. choke milled off and hole filled. turbo is a SVO unit (.60/.63) on a home fabbed manifold. no intercooler as of yet. I am just running form teh turbo to the carb with a BOV on the feed pipe. stock pump has been boost referenced.
 
wsa111":foj3b3am said:
Remember to run a line to the inlet side of your mechanical fuel pump housing so you get your regular fuel pump pressure plus your turbo pressure. ****Does 10 correct me if I'm wrong or Linc or anybody using a turbo.
Click to expand...

That's correct, before you try to make boost you will have to epoxy a tube in the pump housing for boost reference (to the hat, not manifold)
 
ok I was able to find a gasket kit for the adjuster today. I got it on and bent the crap out of the float and it is doing a little better now....but still no idle circuit action. I have the screws out 2 turns and still nothing. as long as I keep on the accel pump it will run. so I take it the bowl is coming off yet again to check out the metering block? is there anyway to clean out the idle passages to make sure they are working? are the idle srews for air or fuel? if they are fuel should I be able to take them out and get raw gas out to check for blockage?
 
62fairlane170":l9baihpl said:
should I be able to take them out and get raw gas out to check for blockage?
Click to expand...

I don't think they are low enough to do that.

How old is the carb?
Rebuilt before you got it?

Holleys are fussy about different gaskets, you may have the wrong gaskets with the wrong holes.

Got a motorcraft you can put on for the time being?
 
I bought this carb on ebay in rebuilt condition.

I have since done this:

took it apart as soon as it came to check the float and jets and all
took the float out and put it in a box waiting for the new float.
put new notched float and jet extension in
put on car and pull hair out for the past weekend


waiting for the exhaust to cool off since when I pull the bowl it all just dumps on there. it has #40 jets now (came with it) but I picked up some 65's today since that seems to be what most people are running for a blowthrough (and some bigger ones would cut down on the butt closure factor)

now it seems the guy that rebuilt it left out the washers on the float adjustment so now I am getting worried about what else needs redone. are all extrenal adjusted needles the same length? seems like this one might be a little short or something. the gaskets should only go one way right?
 
ok I made some progress.

I put in the 65 jets and looked the metering block over but I didn't knotice anything out of place (IE holes not matching up or such)

I got it fired up on the accel pump and then thought....hey I don't have a choke on this.....

so stuck my other hand over the carb opening and it smoothed out and idled (although real high still)

it is big progress. I would have done more but it is dark out there and I need to make up some powerpoint slides for a presentiation tomorrow.

I am hoping that just working the loud pedal on start up will be all I need to do until I get it under load and some heat in the cylinders and then it should be fine to drive I think. gonna bust some but tomorrow to get a cabel throttle made up and some misc small stuff (cleaning up some threads on the exhaust to bolt it up, some hardware to hold the bonnet on, vac fittings, etc)
 
Check that the ignition and vacum lines are in good condition.

The choke horn should have the fuel bowl vent filled with a pipe and inch or so long so the float level isn't influenced any differently.

A 170 or 200 still has good vaccum, and if you've cut the choke horn off, the fuel vent may be getting too much air.

The idle jets screws should have seals with them. Sonny or Gassed 250 on the Aussie forum noted that it can leak air and cause idle issues.

Make sure the float level is correct,
and that the adaptor is allowing the carb to sit flat.

The jets should be 63 to 65, a great start.
The power valve should be 6.5.

Make certain the power valve isn't messed up. Get a new backfire preventer item, or get the ball and check valve. Check that some 'nong' hasn't got happy with a 40 thou drill and made the two power valve holes way to big. About 21 thou is what should be there.

The stock Holley has a problem with the throttle shaft wearing out, so check there is no leak. Additionally, the former owner/tuner may have placed the throttles in incorrectly. Its important the kerb idle pump jet clearance is in spec. The other thing. Is the throttle binding with the cable. Even if it has a plastic outer with a spring, it always pays to add a 318 Dodge 2-bbl or Lokar spring on it to ensure the throttle is hard up at the curb idle setting.

Good fortune. Love your exhast header and ideas. And its the way a Fairlane should be. Stay patient.
 
well do I want a power valve protector in there being a blow through setup? I would think that it would cause the pv to not open under boost? this is another thing scareing me since I am not sure if my carb has one. if it does would it go lean enough to just not run under boost IE fall on it's face?
 
ok thats good to know.

Iam still having a idle issue evenonce it is warmed up. I konw they say to start at 1.5-2 turns out but would 4-5 turns be considered insane?
 
use a vacuum gauge to set your idle mixture screws to the highest vacuum
 
well I don't have a vac gauge right now...


but the problem is it won't even idle. if I bump it up to 1500 or so it will though. if you try to let it sit at 800-900 you have to keep tapping the gas or else it just runs down and dies. could it be this is too much carb for a low compressrion motor to run on?
 
well this is with it turned out 2-3 turns so far. is it that uncommon to have to give it that much fuel to idle? I can get it to idle real high but I think that is because it gets on teh primaries and maybe the PV opening?
 
well it looks liek the idle bleeds are clogged bigtime (I couldn't even see brass they were under so much crud)

can they be removed to get in there for proper cleaning?
 
The idle & high speed air bleed need to be cleaned.

If the carburetor venturi is that crudded up you need to remove the metering block & clean the bleed first from the outside then from the inner passeges in the metering block.

Then clean the passeges leading to the bleeds from the inside on the body of the carburetor.

I think you need to have a professional look at this carb if it in the condition you describe.

Give it a try & if you need help feel free to speak out, its better to ask questions than to make a mistake. No one on this board will ever make you feel that you cannot seek help. William
 
well I bought it rebuilt but PO had it sitting on a shelf for awhile with no choke so it just has shop dust sitting int he venturi....being the bleeds are recessed they kinda picked up more. I might have a try with some carb cleaner and see if it breaks it up. Alot of the issues are just I don't want ot take the carb apart if I don't have to but it looks like I do now.....I was just hopeing I cold turn some knobs and be done with it....oh well
 
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