mysavioreigns
Famous Member
I punched out the pin right next to the gear on my Duraspark distributor, but I can't get the gear off. I've tugged and tugged, but no luck. Any suggestions?
how to get the gear off the dizzy
- Thread starter mysavioreigns
- Start date
http://books.google.com/books?id=MDw7l7 ... iISpFD3GV0
Here's a google book with some info.
If you don't have the right tool (a hydraulic press) they offer an alternative.
Here's a google book with some info.
If you don't have the right tool (a hydraulic press) they offer an alternative.
Use a suitable size gear puller. Use a C clamp to keep the puller hooks from separating and sliding off the gear. Use a flat piece of iron between the screw part of the puller and the part of the dizzy that drives the hex shaft to the oil pump. If you use a tapered screw end into the hex, you will split the end of the distributor shaft. Trust me, I learned this the hard way.
I've got a "rough and dirty" way. With the rollpin out, lay the distributor on a clean padded bench and position a cold chisel at the upper edge of the gear. Lay the chisel back as close to in line with the shaft as you can go.
Rap it sharply with a hammer, turn the gear a third and repeat... After a few raps, it'll start to move off the shaft.
Rap it sharply with a hammer, turn the gear a third and repeat... After a few raps, it'll start to move off the shaft.
mysavioreigns
Famous Member
That's what I tried, with no success. Talked to the guy at Autozone while I was there with a friend and he said I didn't need a puller or anything. But, that guy had some horrible advice in the past...
OK, here's what I'm doing when I can go work on it: Get a crowsfoot or open end wrench and place it around the toothless part of the gear. Suspend the dizzy below the vise, hanging by the gear in the crowsfoot. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE VISE over the shaft or gear. Just let it support the crowsfoot. Place a small block of wood over the hollow end of the dizzy shaft. GENTLY, GENTLY BEGIN TAPPING ON THE SHAFT. Oh, yes, make sure you or someone else is ready to catch the dizzy when it pops down. 
I tried with a puller, but broke the teeth off of the gear. After that, since I have a wooden workbench, I cut a slot in the edge just big enough for the shaft to slide on. Then, using a piece of 2x4 on the top of the shaft, I hammered it until it let go.
To reinstall it, I drilled a hole in the bench just big enough for the shaft, and used the 2x4 again to hammer the gear on.
My gear didn't pop anywhere, it was a tight fit until the very end.
To reinstall it, I drilled a hole in the bench just big enough for the shaft, and used the 2x4 again to hammer the gear on.
My gear didn't pop anywhere, it was a tight fit until the very end.
I use a press to remove the gear & also use a press to reinstall the gear.
That way i will not butcher the hex end of the shaft when i remove the gear and when i install the new gear i support the upper end of the shaft at the shaft rather than at the reluctor shaft where the rotor mounts.
Using a press is the only professional way to do the job right & not butcher something up.
If you don't have a worn dizzy gear consider yourself lucky.
Till i installed the hardened crow gear or the hardened AC Delco gear i have had plenty of practice replacing dizzy gears.
I know that sometimes the backyard deal works, but since using a press the job gets done right. Bill
That way i will not butcher the hex end of the shaft when i remove the gear and when i install the new gear i support the upper end of the shaft at the shaft rather than at the reluctor shaft where the rotor mounts.
Using a press is the only professional way to do the job right & not butcher something up.
If you don't have a worn dizzy gear consider yourself lucky.
Till i installed the hardened crow gear or the hardened AC Delco gear i have had plenty of practice replacing dizzy gears.
I know that sometimes the backyard deal works, but since using a press the job gets done right. Bill
I would have used a press if I had one available. However, not everyone has access to a press or the correct arbors even if a press is available. I'm not about to go and buy a press, they are expensive. If I happen to mess up a dizzy, they are about 30 bucks for a whole new one with the gear already installed.
I also don't have a lot of the special tools needed for engine or transmission repair, but I make do with what I have.
I also don't have a lot of the special tools needed for engine or transmission repair, but I make do with what I have.
wallaka stated
I understand some of you guys not having a press.
But if you already have a distributor with the correct curve & vacuum advance, suddenly the $50.00 replacement becomes over $100.00+.
And the gear supplied is a used glass beaded un hardened piece of junk.
Do the job right, the removal of the gear can be done as Addo said, but the installation of the new gear is a whole different deal. Bill
I understand some of you guys not having a press.
But if you already have a distributor with the correct curve & vacuum advance, suddenly the $50.00 replacement becomes over $100.00+.
And the gear supplied is a used glass beaded un hardened piece of junk.
Do the job right, the removal of the gear can be done as Addo said, but the installation of the new gear is a whole different deal. Bill
