M112 - 300 Build for the '56

[pmuller9]

On paper a 2.67 drive ratio is close to 14.5 lbs of peak boost but the 300 six with a big cam and a ported big valve head probably has a better volumetric efficiency than the Eaton 112 at that pressure level so the boost may be less.

Does the supercharger have a bypass valve?

OK. So I took the time to revisit this thread.
We had a discussion about drive ratios around 2.3 but I forgot that we had talked about using a wastegate to regulate boost.
This being the case the 2.67 drive ratio would be ok if the boost is regulated.
It still would be better overall if you could use a larger pulley on the supercharger and brought the drive ratio down a bit to around 2.5
You would still have to regulate boost if you want to limit the boost to 10 psi.

As far as connecting rods, the stock rods will work fine if they are Magnafluxed and resized with ARP bolts.
I would still use a forged piston but I will leave that up to you.

 

[Mydogisshaggy]

Any update

View attachment 8234

Thinking about sticking the HP under the drivers dash....Any issue mounting the MAP beside it? It is about 3' from the nipple in the intake.

Any update how's it going

 

[clintonvillian]

Any update

Any update how's it going

Ah man, it has stalled again....

Between coaching my sons Little League team, and and honey do's for the wife, my hobbies have been put on hold. I am hoping to get back on the truck soon....

 

[clintonvillian]

Since I haven't updated here are some pictures of things I've been working on... including my Bronco roll cage built from scratch....

Oh, and I complete redone my F100 frame, went with a 4 link and lowered the front. Viking coilovers all around...

 

[clintonvillian]

 

[clintonvillian]

 

[pmuller9]

Amazing!

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

You certainly can't say that you haven't been up to any good, Mr Villain

 

[Soldmy66]

Beautiful.

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

I like your rotisserie.
Nice job

 

[bubba22349]

Those Door wire Looms are excellent!

 

[clintonvillian]

Amazing!

Hey,

I am working with a builder, out of state who has built quite a few of these.

I am looking at having him build the shortblock and just ship it to me. He has asked what my combustion chamber cc's are.

I know how to get the volume, but I have not cleaned up the chamber at all. What needs to be done to it before I measure?

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

...I know how to get the volume, but I have not cleaned up the chamber at all. What needs to be done to it before I measure?

Tootsie rolls in a die grinder - as close to a mirror finish as you care to spend the time.
Do this before you do the valve job so you don't risk nicking the seats.

 

[clintonvillian]

Tootsie rolls in a die grinder - as close to a mirror finish as you care to spend the time.
Do this before you do the valve job so you don't risk nicking the seats.

ugh...valve job is already done.

Am I really looking to remove material, or just polish. I think I saw a post about scoring the head to match the cylinder wall and grinding it out to that line....

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

On my race motors I score the chambers and open up around the valve pockets, keeping as much quench across from the spark plug as possible..
On my street motors I think it is more important to remove as little material as possible so in that case just grind the rough cast surface down to a mirror finish.
If the valve job is done and you still want to polish things out use a couple of junk valves to mask the seat area. Its still a little bit risky. After you are satisfied with the chambers lightly lap the valves into the seats with fine lapping compound.

 

[Wesman07]

X2 on using an old valve to protect the seats. Can you post a picture of the combustion chamber?

 

[clintonvillian]

X2 on using an old valve to protect the seats. Can you post a picture of the combustion chamber?

I will, might be a week or two.

Any of you guys have some old valves lying around you would ship me...lol

Nevermind they are oversize, I'll have to order some.

 

[sixtseventwo4d]

If you have a local machine shop you most like can pick up a old valve that will work for you without additional cost

 

[THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER]

And before you install them grind the edge to a knife-edge (eliminate the margin) , so your cutter can get in close to the seat.

 

[MechRick]

I usually drop a valve that's slightly smaller than the final diameter against the seat when grinding. You just want to protect the actual seat surface.