My Budget 250 build

[powerband]

was wondering, is the port in the manifold, just below the carb, the PVC connection? (where I have the cutout on my pattern)

... believe all PCV's used the manifold to carb alum. OEM adapter. Lower manifold port would be used for Auto tranny Modulator vacuum and accessory vacuum taps for vacuum wipers, coolant switched advance emissions 2-way diaphragm dist,' etc... . Holley 2300 2bbl, 4bbl , AFB, etc have 3/8 vac port integral.

Put your finger over ported vacuum - there's almost no vacuum (and no advance) at idle with throttle blade in position for that port. Manifold vacuum to distrib' adds advance at idle.

have fun


. ,,


AUTOMATIC:

 

[chad]

"...Holley 2300 2bbl, 4bbl , AFB, etc have 3/8...(PCV)...vac port integral. ..."
I believe my RBS (carter) also has it up on the carb. A male 'peg' sitting out on the side there.

 

[lavron]

Here is the big port I was talking about on the leading edge of the carb, you can see the fuel port facing towards us and it is 90 degrees and below it.

Doesn't the PCV valve just hook to the air cleaner as well? I guess this is what I get for just keeping the road draft tube on my 170 :roll:

And here is the crusty old carb that was on the 200, the PCV valve is entering the lower mounting plate.

I don't have a way to do that on this new set-up I am doing if there isn't a port on the carbs already or if I can't hook to the manifold vacuum port.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[chad]

yes, I think we haves 'sticky' on PCV systems.

Trouble is we gotta B a bit of the historian...
I would like to havea closed system so as U say 1 rubber hose goes to the A/C housing
(frm frnt V/C opening).
From the rear V/C opening (PCV) the pcvalve in line goes to the intake "area". I'm thinkin some went to the carb &
depending on yr - others went to the base. May B none ever went to the log, eh?

 

[Econoline]

There's nothing wrong with hooking it up to the log. It may affect the vacuum signal to any other lines hooked up there, not sure. But since you have nothing else hooked up to it, it won't be problem.

 

[bubba22349]

For the very best PCV system all you need do is follow Fords engineering from the beginning systems in 1962 that refined into a closed type PCV system by 1965. The first part of the system is the PCV this removes the contaminates from the engines crankcase and consumes them during the combustion process. On an inline six Ford mounted the PCV valve at one end of the internally baffled valve cover the other end of the hose goes to bottom of most newer carb's (a Vacuum source that's below the throttle blade) or to an adapter plate used between the early style carb's and the intake log, X2 yes this hose can also be connected / mounted to the intakes log vacuum port too.

The second part of the closed system is for fresh air into the engines crankcase is oil fill / breather cap this is mounted on the opposite end of the valve cover as the PCV, it will have a stub hose fitting for the crankcase vent hose that goes to the air cleaner, usally installing it into the bottom of air cleaner base plate this install also looks the cleanest but it will also function the same with it mounted to the top of the air cleaner. A slightly Modded PCV system called an open type or Hot Rod style PCV system can use a open type oil filter / breather cap without the hose bib going into the air cleaner. This system also works ok for a car that's not driven very much it also filters the air that's going into the crankcase but depending on the filter of the cap used might also allow some dirt and grit into the engine. Good luck

 

[lavron]

You guys are a big help, I think I should be able to take care of the PCV system now, I can't remember the oil cap having a hose I will have to dig it out and look at it.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[chad]

here's one. Can get chrome or not.
Look below on page for 1 w/"pcv nipple".

https://www.vintageinlines.com/product- ... essory-kit

 

[lavron]

here's one. Can get chrome or not.
Look below on page for 1 w/"pcv nipple"

Thanks Chad, I already have this, I went in and dug around for asn old picture of when I brought the 200 home.

Pretty much is how everyone said

I will probably just paint that cap and call it good.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[wsa111]

The chrome breather does not have enough air flow. If the crankcase pressure exceeds the flow of the PCV & the breathe cap,
Get a Spectre breather cap, it has twice the flow of the chrome cap.
As Bubba stated a hose from the valve cover to the air cleaner will also supply an adequate flow to the valve cover. Take your choice.

 

[chad]

Chad,

Hey, if U get rid of that "over the valve cover throttle cable bracket" let me know.
I could use one.
C email in sig below.

 

[bubba22349]

here's one. Can get chrome or not.
Look below on page for 1 w/"pcv nipple"

Thanks Chad, I already have this, I went in and dug around for asn old picture of when I brought the 200 home.

Pretty much is how everyone said

I will probably just paint that cap and call it good.

See Ya,
Mike

great Mike your all set for the correct type valve cover and other parts!

 

[lavron]

Update on engine build, I got a call from the machinist and he was actually working on my motor. Of course there was an issue, first he said he needed to bore the block .030 over not .020 I had bought piston for (and waited months to get) second was he had o deck the block (did not ask how much) to true it up and from his calculations with the rods I have and the decking the pistons would be out of the bore.

I told him to go ahead and get stock cast .030 over pistons (I will have the .020 pistons up for sale probably if any one is interested) I will have to deal with compression ratio when the head gets built, he said he could modify the recess on the piston if needed.

The last thing is he was turning the bearing journals all .010 under which is fine I just bought the correct bearings.

Not sure how the math could have been wrong on piston and rod length unless he took a lot off the deck, will hopefully all work out in the end.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[bubba22349]

well that's a bummer on those new Pistons Mike. With the stock type 250 cast piston you will be down the hole .030 more then the Ausie piston. On the deck cut I doubt normally that he would of took much more than .010 to .020 off, but even if the pistons do end up out the top of the block .010 with a .044 Victor head gasket the quench would be near perfect at .034. With a Felpro .050 then you could be out the top of the deck .015 or .020 and still be at a .035 or .030 quench. Might work out yet and you could open up the head chamber around the valves for a little better flow too. Is there a chance after he has the crank turned down you could get the block back and do a mock up to see were your at now? Is your head a large chamber one? Good luck

 

[lavron]

Is your head a large chamber one? Good luck

Well I never have checked it, it is a 200 head off of a '72 Maverick. I am considering doing the later larger valves and hardened seats, I had considered the 144 intake valves for exhaust valves but I am not sure I want to risk cutting into the water jacket.

He thought it would be zero deck with the longer rods and stock pistons, my only concern is the piston dish size, I am not sure what the stock dish is. I really did not want to do a ton of work on the head if I needed to lower compression but maybe I am over thinking it and it is no big deal.

I wish I had gotten the .030 pistons, I thought about it but changed my mind at the last minute so I am just going to deal with it and know that the piston shortfall (if any) will be less than stock and hopefully CR will be manageable.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[bubba22349]

I think you will be okay here is some of what we can know except for the blocks new deck measurement.

With the Auzie Piston the compression height is 1.530
With a stock 250 replacement piston the compression height is 1.500 so .030 shorter so down the hole again
HSC Rod lenght 5.990
Stock 250 Rod lenght 5.880
Bore 3.6830
Crankshaft stroke 3.91
Stock Block height 9.469
FelPro head gasket .050
Stock Block pistion deck with stock 5.880 rods and 1.500 compression height Pistons was .150 down the hole
New block pistion deck height with 5.990 rods and 1.500 compression height Pistons is .040 down the hole before the block deck
milling.

With the Ausie Pistions you would have been only .010 down the hole and a with a .010 clean up mill it would havebeen at a zero deck height. In any case if the Pistons end up .010 to .015 above the deck with a .050 FelPro head gasket it could work out ok then it can be adjusted with cutting a larger piston dish, find a .020 block saver shim or have one made (see below example of a 300 Ford one) or Open up the head combustion chambers some too. I think stock Pistons have about a 13 CC dish.So depending on how much was the amount that that was milled off the block deck there are still some ways to fix it. If I ever get to build another 250 the plan is to tighten up the quench distance to a minimum of .030 or 035 on the short block then dial in the head cambers and cam to suit the combo.

Plugging in all these know above numbers and only have to guess on what the new deck height is, so will use zero deck at .040 (or with even as much as a .060 mill cut) could still work out. For an example I get a static compression ratio of 9.16 with using the stock spec 62 CC 1972 Maverick head plus a .040 mill cut of the block for a zero decked. Often I have found that most Ford heads will measure even larger then spec for the Combustion Chambers CC's by 2, 3, or 4 CC's depending how many times they have ever been milled before. Good luck Mike

FelPro 300 Head Saver Gasket Shim
https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/f ... /overview/

 

[lavron]

I got another call from the machinist today so he is actually working on my motor :roll: He was asking about my head gasket compression thickness and bore, I told him I had one but hadn't even opened the box to look at it but would go get measurements.

This is where my cheapness bit me again, I had bought an Engintech gasket set, I understand that the components and gaskets are just a mix of major brand name manufactures and are usually fine, I guess they are (the valve seals are Mahle) but the head gasket is definitely not a Fel-Pro :roll: not sure what it is but it is missing the metal ring around either 3 or 4 piston hole, don't think that is right :roll:

I called him back and told him to use Fel-Pro numbers (I gave him the numbers from the Ford Falcon Six Cylinder book) and I went ahead and ordered a head gasket.

Anyway he was in the process of turning the pistons, I think he topped them and said he would add a little more dish if he needed too. I think he had calculated 9.9 CR with us estimating the chambers at 62 cc, I told him I would bring him my head soon, if we have to remove some fro the chambers to bring the CR back down I guess we will cross that bridge when we get to it.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[lavron]

Picked the block up yesterday, will add more pictures and info as I start putting everything back together.

Dropped off the head, he is going to check it for any issues, the head is a '72 so going to put hardened exhaust seats in and cut intake seats for '78 valves (1.75") too nervous to try and install 1.50" exhaust valves I don't want to potentially cut into the water jacket to install seats.

I have a lot to do as far as the head stuff, I need to get the custom intake pattern mounted on a board and get it ready to cast (plus cast it), figure out what valve springs to use along with cam choices, leaning toward 302 valve springs but maybe a fresh set of stock springs would be a better choice?

Will probably be looking for advice on things like measuring and acquiring push rods etc in the near future (relatively speaking), that is something I have never done before (I don't even know where to get them)

Anyway, closer every day.

See Ya,
Mike

 

[65coupei6]

It has been fun reading the posts and following along with the build. Nice work!

As for the push rods. you can buy an adjustable rod to help you measure. Or just make one. Just cut the rod in half. thread the ends and use a coupler. (just like your throttle linkage).

I would suggest 3/8 pushrods from Smith Brothers. https://www.pushrods.net/

 

[bubba22349]

your 250 build is coming along very nicely Mike, as far as valve springs and depending on the cam you end up choosing I would lean towards the Hy Po 289 or 302's valve springs this will give you severial hundred RPM higher rev range even with a stock cam. When I was tuning on my 77 Maverick (250, C4, 3:00 rear combo) totally stock short block with ported head and top end tricks (plus it still needed to pass SoCal smog tests) I was a little disappointed though that it was all done at 78 MPH. Next I was going for a lot more cam, compression and better more free flowing exhaust. Good luck