All Small Six New Adventures in electrics fans and inline 6’s
- Thread starter awasson
- Start date
This relates to all small sixes
Good eye. I was questioning the same thing to myself.
It has a threaded bolt in the collar that grounds to the chassis. If I take the spade connector that connects to the output of the sensor and place it on the sensor housing, the fan turns on so the circuit is good but the sensor isn’t.
Last edited:
It’s not. It’s two lengths of 16 gauge that have been spun. Throwback to my career as an electronics tech.
Twisted Pair Wire starts out as two stranded insulated wires or two solid core insulated wires being parallel to each other before they are spun with a drill or some other device twisting the two insulated wires together in turn making a twisted pair.
Spun Wire starts out as multiple strands of (non-insulated) wires being parallel to each other before they are spun together to form a single conductor.
Some Spun Wire are very labor intensive to manufacture. This is one of the reasons some are very expensive. It’s very interesting to watch how it’s done.
The first paragraph matches the description in post #41.
Spun Wire starts out as multiple strands of (non-insulated) wires being parallel to each other before they are spun together to form a single conductor.
Some Spun Wire are very labor intensive to manufacture. This is one of the reasons some are very expensive. It’s very interesting to watch how it’s done.
The first paragraph matches the description in post #41.
Last edited:
Other places in the world just might call the process twisted, spun or possibly something else. I m just sharing what I’ve learned in years of manufacturing. As far as I understand, the terminology is used globally.
I guess we all can agree that the pictures shown in this thread shows quality work terminating the wire to the sensor. Nicely done!
I guess we all can agree that the pictures shown in this thread shows quality work terminating the wire to the sensor. Nicely done!
Last edited:
Spinning tne wires has no effect in anything we’re doing, when it comes to switching straight 12 volt power for lights, alarm circuits, fans and such. I wouldn’t use it with speaker wires or RF circuits but it has no effect in straight 12 volt DC wiring and it makes it easier to make clean runs of 2 or more runs of wire over a distance.
Generally, the term “twisted pair” refers to network cabling used in telecommunications. They aren’t suitable for vehicles though because they’re super light gauge conductors and would be fussy to work with. They just wouldn’t have the strength to last long in a car, especially an engine compartment of a 60’s/70’s vehicle.
I believe that in most cases, this is true.
Some of the best speaker wires I’ve ever used was Romex.
This is correct.
Twisting pairs of electrical wires is a cabling technique used in audio and network technology, among many others. Wires are twisted together to accomplish two main goals: reduce outgoing noise and reduce incoming noise related to electromagnetic interference.
We used twisted wires on our Transformer Coupled Single Ended and PP 300B Vacuum Tube Amplifiers and Transformer Coupled Single Ended and PP line stages. It can make a huge difference in reducing noise.
In this day and time I have not kept up on the wiring used in new cars and I really don’t want to know.
Last edited:
When I was doing automotive electrical tech, we installed a lot of security systems and car starters. The goal was always to make the wiring blend in with the factory wiring so we’d have our harness of 20 or 30 wires and we’d map out where everything was going and twist up the 2 or more runs of wires into a harness.
Then we could mount the alarm unit somewhere safe and hidden away and run the wires wherever they needed to go. If the car had a taped harness, we could tape ours up to match. If the car harness was in split loom, we could slide our runs inside the split loom to make it blend in too. I got out of that profession about 25 years ago (after almost 20 years in the profession) but it was pretty a pretty enjoyable work.
The irony for me with the Mustang is that back in the day, I would try to avoid working on cars like my 66 Mustang. I’d have much rather worked on a 90’s Honda of some sort that was clean, easy to take apart to reveal all of the wiring and well thought out… Today, I spend all my spare time taking apart and putting back together my Mustang or planning various wiring adventures.
I still have my hoard of car stereo amplifiers and gear from that era and have been looking for the right head unit… Recently, I found what I was looking for. I found a Pioneer digital AM/FM/Cassette player on EBay. It’s an oldie from the late 70’s, early 80’s with a silver face and yellow LED display for the clock and stations and it has the original Pioneer knobs that would have come with it. The AM Radio in my Mustang has never worked and is just there for display so the Pioneer will make for a perfect fit. I had a similar Pioneer in my 67 Camaro when I was 18.
These are photos from the EBay listing. I’ll need to do some cleanup but it is functional and I think it’s going to be perfect. The seller has the knobs on the wrong shafts. Tuning should be on the right but the most important thing is that they’re the original ones and in good shape. Very high tech, with all of the bells and whistles for the time.
Yes, we do! I had forgotten about twisted wiring in tube amps. I’ve been pretty successful resurrecting old tube and radio gear and built a guitar amp push-pull with the option to go ultra linear (which isn’t very practical for a guitar amp). It is a pretty decent little amp with a ton of gain though. It was designed to use a pair of EL84’s but currently it’s running a pair of really beefy Russian tubes. It can sound clean and nice or really overdriven, depending on the gain control.
I’ve always wanted to build a hifi single ended amp like a 300B tube amp. They must sound really nice.
A properly built Tranformer Coupled directly heated triode PP 300B amplifier operating 92db efficient bi-wired transmission line speakers are amazing. At times it’s scary. You can hear things that you would never hear on other systems. My wife and I went to a high end audio store and we listened to some $70,000.00 + systems and my wife said that she was not impressed. She mentioned that the system lacks space, depth, dynamics and transparency. The sales person asked what we have now. She said my husband built it.
If others really want to hear true High-Fi, listen to a well built and thought out Quad System.
This is the system she was referring to:
If others really want to hear true High-Fi, listen to a well built and thought out Quad System.
This is the system she was referring to:
Last edited:
‘twisted together for support” might have wrked better for this 'not esoteric’ (read:
electronic-ignorant) guy.
SO0o...
in the pic (#43) I guess there’s an unseen ‘screw’ into the metal hoses connector, the
blk wire going to ground from there. The yellow is to the sender (& gauge).
Did U find a ‘good’ sendor? My 250 has it on the back of the head, jamb tight on the fire wall.
I may never get one in w/o a motor mont loosen (boss lowered in’n is all always ina rush “Make
me ‘loz' my time” Span-glish) so did not unblock/apply sender. The 250 sender/hole has larger threads
( 3/8" vs. 1/4") but the electrical post on the 250 sender is smaller so the stock connector
-from my 170ci swap out- in the harness won't fit on that post. Hopefully the Ohms are the same
so I dont need to swap the ddash gauge too.
electronic-ignorant) guy.
SO0o...
in the pic (#43) I guess there’s an unseen ‘screw’ into the metal hoses connector, the
blk wire going to ground from there. The yellow is to the sender (& gauge).
Did U find a ‘good’ sendor? My 250 has it on the back of the head, jamb tight on the fire wall.
I may never get one in w/o a motor mont loosen (boss lowered in’n is all always ina rush “Make
me ‘loz' my time” Span-glish) so did not unblock/apply sender. The 250 sender/hole has larger threads
( 3/8" vs. 1/4") but the electrical post on the 250 sender is smaller so the stock connector
-from my 170ci swap out- in the harness won't fit on that post. Hopefully the Ohms are the same
so I dont need to swap the ddash gauge too.
You got some nice tube equipment.
Nice Pioneer. I go all the way back to when Pioneer first came out with their under dash mounted 8 track Supertuner with separate bass and treble controls. It was pretty cool.
I have begun planning my Bronco audio upgrade and like you have the original am radio which works but not well. Found some 4 channel amps you can control with Bluetooth on your phone (and I hope a usb-c connected to my phone) so it is not visible just stick it under the dash. I will stream all my music anyway from Spotify, Amazon and more and my favorite fm stations all stream so don't need a tuner anymore.
I like using the phone to control my 2 zone Yamaha receiver with Musicast. One zone for patio speakers and the other zone living room. Technology is great (often).
Thanks,
The Chassis are made out of 6061-T6 channel welded. The top plate is 3/8” 6061-T6. The chassis’s are powder coated hammerite finish.
The reasoning behind the way the chassis’s are built is they are used as heat sinks. All the heat is dissipated from the chassis. No heat sinks needed. When running them 24 hours. They get moderately warm. You can keep your hand on them.
Last edited:
Makes the installation look just that one up. Taking the time to add detail makes things look so much better.
Just in case you did not know, there are some late model small sixes that have a larger NPT thread boss in the thermostat neck that may work for you.
