All Small Six New Adventures in electrics fans and inline 6’s

This relates to all small sixes
Yes, an emissions equipped 6 should have a neck with ports on it. Going from memory, there used to be thermostatically controlled vacuum switches screwed into the goose neck. I actually have one on mine.
 
Just in case you did not know, there are some late model small sixes that have a larger NPT thread boss in the thermostat neck that may work for you.

Thanks for that idea. I was thinking the same thing. I have a 69 head on my bench with a thermostat housing with the casting for a boss but it isn't threaded. ...yet 😁

I have a larger sized sensor and I'll bet it'll work fine.

Do you know what model and year? It makes a good place for an aftermarket temp sender/gauge addition

The 69 head I have has that housing on it. I think it's a 69 because the casting is C9DE.

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A properly built Tranformer Coupled directly heated triode PP 300B amplifier operating 92db efficient bi-wired transmission line speakers are amazing. At times it’s scary. You can hear things that you would never hear on other systems. My wife and I went to a high end audio store and we listened to some $70,000.00 + systems and my wife said that she was not impressed. She mentioned that the system lacks space, depth, dynamics and transparency. The sales person asked what we have now. She said my husband built it.

If others really want to hear true High-Fi, listen to a well built and thought out Quad System.

This is the system she was referring to:
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Those amps look fantastic.

Disclosure: I'm a bit of a fan of audio. I'm not a fanatic or an expert in any way, shape or form but I have a high appreciation for audio, especially when it's homebrew.

I grew up listening to my dad's hand wired amps. He used a variation of a Wilkinson push-pull design. 6550 tubes into Acrosound output transformers. They are 50w per channel class A/B. I've got them along with a set of quad 6550 100w mono blocks (Mirantz clones) and a set of 50W EL34 mono blocks my dad's design with Dynaco output transformers.

Oh, almost forgot... I've also got my dad's old workhorse running the audio in our office. Stereo class A/B 6L6 amp. I run a lossless digital streamer through my Audio Control half octave EQ and level matcher (Car Audio from the late 80's) and then into the amp. It runs a set of 2 ways. No subwoofer in the office. The sound is fantastic. You can listen to it all day long.

In the living room I have a pair of speakers I built into the wall and a pair of folded tapped horn subs I built. They're only 7" drivers but long throw and they can shake the walls with only 35 watts each.

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The OP seems to like the discussion, At times it’s difficult to stay focused on the original topic when someone post about something that you or someone else enjoys. I’m guilty myself. There is a balance. It looks like the thread started getting back on track on post #58.
 
My van's 200 has the T-stat housing with the threaded port. I was going to use it for a temp gauge, but it's downstream of the thermostat.
 
My van's 200 has the T-stat housing with the threaded port. I was going to use it for a temp gauge, but it's downstream of the thermostat.

This is my first deep dive into the subject but my thought is that it shouldn't matter where it is as long as the turn on and turn off temps are higher than that of the thermostat temperature rating.
 
This is my first deep dive into the subject but my thought is that it shouldn't matter where it is as long as the turn on and turn off temps are higher than that of the thermostat temperature rating.
For a cooling fan, that's probably true. It will function fine for that. I had forgotten my jeep is set up exactly like this and works well!
 
Ok, it's settled, I'm moving onto tapping the C9DE thermostat housing. The 1/4" 18 NPT is on it's way and I've already got my 7/16" pilot bit. I'll tap it and install the 185/175 sensor that came with the fan. I may wait until I install the C9DE before I put it into the mix as I don't really want to do the job twice. In the meantime, I have my manual override switch and I can just leave it on and the fan is on whenever the car is running. If I'm travelling any distance, I don't even need the radiator fan on because the car runs cool anyway, especially in this cool fall weather.
 
Ok, it's settled, I'm moving onto tapping the C9DE thermostat housing. The 1/4" 18 NPT is on it's way and I've already got my 7/16" pilot bit. I'll tap it and install the 185/175 sensor that came with the fan. I may wait until I install the C9DE before I put it into the mix as I don't really want to do the job twice. In the meantime, I have my manual override switch and I can just leave it on and the fan is on whenever the car is running. If I'm travelling any distance, I don't even need the radiator fan on because the car runs cool anyway, especially in this cool fall weather.
Similar situation on one truck- a "temporary" loss of auto-on fan switch was not that big a deal this past summer. Manual on in town, not needed at all over 35mph. Still gong to redo the auto switch, but not urgent.
 
“...onto tapping the C9DE thermostat housing..."
some already done if interested, no?
 
“...onto tapping the C9DE thermostat housing..."
some already done if interested, no?

Thanks @chad. I appreciate it. I've drilled the pilot and and will tap it tomorrow. I'll send you an emergency sos if I bugger up the threads :ROFLMAO:
 
Thanks @chad. I appreciate it. I've drilled the pilot and and will tap it tomorrow. I'll send you an emergency sos if I bugger up the threads :ROFLMAO:
Remember you can always tap more if too tight, but it is hard to put the material back on if too loose.
 
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