no spark

[Anonymous]

ok no9w i got the motor in i replaced all the standard stuff off the new motor with the tryed n true stuff off the old motor, everything is fine cept no %^&(*$ spark, i tore the dist apart n cleaned n sanded and regapped , then took the light n checked the wire to the coil againnst ground n got a lite, tested the dist against pos and got lite, got a slight spark coming from the coil but nothing to the spark plugs , what next should i do?

 

[addo]

Sounds like the secondary of your coil might be busted. Test the resistance with an ohm-meter if possible (one probe down the centre hole, one against the metal case). You're wanting 8-9000 ohms.

 

[Lazy JW]

You should get more than a 'slight' spark direct from the coil. I would first verify actual voltage to the coil, check for a good ground throughout the system, double check for correct polarity, check the coil wire (high tension) for excess resistance, and last, try a different coil. If you can't get a decent spark direct from the coil, don't expect it to get any better going through the distributor and wires.
Joe

 

[Fred]

Go back over every wire you touched replacing the motor and retighten them, especially the grounds.

 

[Anonymous]

well i bought a new coil n changed the dist wire with a new wire, black taped the main red from the truck to the coilregapped the points to .025, noone seems able to test coils so i bought a new one and STILL NO %$^#&%$^%*%$ SPARK this is reaallly annoying theres no reason for it , i went over every derned wire someone musta dun this b4 lol help lol

 

[Lazy JW]

I forgot to mention the condenser, it could be bad. They seldom fail but it can happen. You really need a volt/ohmeter to properly troubleshoot these problems. If you are not getting full voltage to the coil, use a jumper wire straight from the battery. Once you have full voltage at the coil, you should be able to open and close the points with a screwdriver (to keep from getting zapped) and make sparks as long as you care to flip the points. If this doesn't work, test the coil by disconnecting the wire from the distributor side of the coil and hook a jumper wire from that terminal to ground. Then remove the wire from ground. You should get a spark from the high tension coil wire. By touching the wire to ground and removing it you are duplicating what the points do. If all of this works and still no spark when using the points, there is a poor ground at the points.
Joe

 

[Anonymous]

i was just wondering i cant remember if there was a lil round tube thing with a wire on it leadin to one of the coil posts outside the dist as i dont got one there now just the points and condenser inside the dist i cant place the name of it so dont laff at my description, i looked at an old ford marauder and it was points system and it had one bolted to the intake with a lead to the coil

 

[Anonymous]

on a points system isnt there a resistor and a condenser? the condenser inside the distributor and a resistor hooked to one of the coil leads? neg or pos i cant remember, i havent played with points in alonnnnnnnnnnnng time , maybe thats what im missin

 

[Lazy JW]

Yes, many points systems use a ballast resistor in line with the coil to reduce burning of the points, but it will only be used during 'run' mode. During startup you should be getting full 12 volts to the positive side of the coil. There should also be a condensor, some vehicles have them inside the distributor, some outside. If there is an extra condensor it is probably for reducing radio interference, you only need one for the ignition to work properly but the additional one won't hurt anything unless it is shorted internally. Did you try the procedure to test the coil by itself?
Joe

 

[277 I6]

do you have 12 volts at the coil while turning the engine over

 

[Anonymous]

well i yanked out the dist and apparently it was grounding out inside somewhere, got the truck runnin now but theres sum blowby in it kinda ruined my ambition of gettion a good motor from a wreckin yard