"...I can probably manage crating or strapping to a pallet..."
Not an expert but had both luck & unhappiness.
The best I found is an off shoot of flee bay. LTT (less that a truck-full) means some1 like U or me (a wrkin stiff) hasa truck. They (or may B the wife) gets together a trip - stop here, stop there along the rout - p/u more. May B a 6 cyl dodge cummins and an open or closed 2 or 3 axel trailer/gooseneck.
It's called uShip. They have a bidding process. U can wait awhile and prices go down. I used them for 2 (250 motors) - $150 frm VA and TN to MA - 2 separate deliveries 1 yr apart - 1 flex-plate ('75), 1 sbf bell, carb, ign. 1 a 'core', 1 a 'running motor' ('69) both $250 but no offie tri). U give a 24/7 phone number, provide a dock or level p/u area & turn-a-round space. This all may B for the buyer anyway...
Did I send U a 3 or 4 paragraph post like this but on 'sales"? That's another loaded topic...
On the sales - I'm even less help. I believe its 1/3rd off the cost/expense of whatever you've done. Plenty of opinions here, I'm sure. Differences on areas of the country, rural v city buyer, availability, specific item, lots goes inta
valuation. I C alota testing (guys place something on a market w/o really selling just 2 C where it goes. List elsewhere @ a firm top price'n hold tight). Example:
https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1987- ... -unimog-4/
scroll dwn the page, 1/3 panel dwn da right side w/all the pic...U will C motors now'n then.
CL and flee-bay the same. I fell for 2 or 3 fox-bodied wagons ('78 - '86) that were pretty obviously 'tests' (Cali, MI and Baltim, MD). I offered on the hi end, over bid everybody (3.5K$) but the sale did not go thru due to "seller pulled add". Folks probably put a 15 or 20K$ 'reserve' on'em so as to not sell /or/ wait till some1 actually bid that hi...
Use a regular pallet (make sure to drain CC 1st). Get some blocks either frnt &/or sides, rest right on oil pan, use 2 to 4 ratchet straps (1.5 inch?), wiggle it when done. U can wrap w/that palletizing plastic frm a roll (firms up, makes driver happy as the leaks stay inside). If it moves U need to start again or adjust till firm. U no da drill... Fancy is 4x4 blocks long corner/edge cut off @ an angle, glued'n screwed to pallet @ proper position for using oe motor mounts (still need ratchets).K? ask more if not...
Well since you don't plan on using the 200 six again, 
if you wanted to you could send it out to me then. I would be happy to make sure the Tri Power 200 lives on in another project car. Best of luck in your next engine swap 
