rebuild update



hey everyone, i just got done re-building my engine.. its in my car but i had to work and i did not have time to hook it up. I am also afraed to fire it up for the first time because i heard that it either is the best engine ever or it blows up.....i put it in last weekend and i am waiting to see how she runs!!!! you see my car is at my dads and that is a hour drive from maple vally WA, to Gig probalby next weekend i will be posting pics of the re-build.

First On Race Day
8) a few tips to help prevent disaster.
1: pre oil the system.
2: when you get ready to start the motor, pull the coil wire and crank the engine over untill you get oil pressure.
3: when you start the motor run it at 2000-2500 rpm for the first 20 min and remember DO NOT LET IDLE. if you have any problems shut the motor down, fix the problem and the refire the motor and again run it at 2000-2500 rpm.
Howdy Back John:

Wow! How exciting!

The theory on the high idle on start up is that it takes pretty high rpm to spin the lifters on their cam lobe. If the lifters don't spin on start up they can wipe out a lobe pretty quick.

I'd advize you to pre-warm you oil too, if at all possible. I'm assumin g you're doing start-up with new, straight grade #30 wt petroleum oil and a new filter. Start up with the valve cover off. Increase the idle at the idle screw so you can watch to see that oil is getting to the front rocker arm, and that the carb, or anything else is not leaking. If there are leaks, stop the engine and fix the leaks. Then start up again and proceed. It will take a few minutes to get oil to the front rocker arm so be patient.

Once you've completed the cam break in procedure, Adjust the valves if you have adjustible rockers, adjust the carb for highest vacuum with the low speed idle mixture screw and check the initial timing of about 10 degrees.

At that point, I'd take the car for a drive, not too far from home and driving easy. Varying speed and rpm, with very little idling. I like to put a little load on a new engine. I believe that a little load is better, safer & easier on the engine then no load. If you have a quality hone on the cylinders and a good set of rings, the rings will be mostly seated in the 1st hundred miles. This is a good time to change oil and filter. I'd switch to a lighter wt oil now, like a 5-30 or 10-30. The lighter oil will have an easier time getting into all the tight clearances. Tear the old filter apart looking for large chunks and pieces of metal and other depree. If you find any, save and check with your machinist for evaluation. Most likely, you'll find nothing.

I like to change oil again after 500 miles and check the filter again, jsut to be safe.

A couple of tips:
*Greatest engine wear occurs during the 1st 500 miles of engine life.
*2nd greatest engine wear occurs on cold start up.
*Oil doesn't reach operating temperature until after the 1st seven-ten minutes of engine running.
*Driving helps warm an engine faster and better then idling.
*An engine heater also helps.
*A winter thermostat, assuming a good cooling system, also helps.

Enjoy the journey!

Adios, David